Hi all

Sorry for this newbie question.

I have been working on my first bust, which was also the first time I have painted in oils as well so lots of new things for me to get my head around. Trouble is there was one job I couldn't figure out how to do, so I kept putting it off, now the figure is nearly finished and I have still not done it and it probably too late to do it properly now. Anyway stop all this waffling and get to the problem.

Whats the easiest way to paint raised detail like badges, or the shoulder Badges on this figure I am working on. this is not mine but the one I am working on.

My initial thought was to give the model an Enamel Flat coat and then do the badges in acrylics, that way if I get it wrong I can whip it off and start again, does that sound like a plan, but how about the tiny letters and badge emblems how is that done.

Thanks

Paul

Hello Paul:

You ask a very good question. . . and as I see it, you could get quite a
variety of answers from the fine ladies and gentlemen, the membership
of PF. What I suggest is that you give some thought to the phrase: We
learn by doing!" Putting the time in is how you discover, but repeatition
and from little accidents how to get to the point where you're comfortable
with the "technique" you have discovered. For each of us, that can be
something completely different. But we get to the same place.

So I suggest you try painting on something that is not your current bust
project. Something that doesn't matter if you goof up. Learn the lesson
on that throw away piece. And when you are confident that you NOW
understand the way it works. . . FOR YOU, then go to your project, the
bust that you mentioned. We do need to be patient and put the time
in. There is no quick fix, as I see it. We learn by doing. . . and I suggest
doing on a practice piece. I hope this is some help for you. That was
my intent, fellow modeler.

The Miami Jayhawk

Well Paul,
You asked how the badges are to be done. That is for everybody a real challenge.
I started with the darkest shade and build that up from outside to the inside with lighter colors.
Finally i paint the letters in the badge, and believe me, it is a try and error. Therefore i paint with oils, and the letters with acryl. You can whipe it off with water and start again.
But as Rick said: there where be more ways that lead to Rome.

marc

I find that acrylics are far better than oils for this but you also need the right consistency of paint - not too watery but thin enough to flow. Most importantly you need a good quality fine brush and some confidence/practice. Try practicing on a piece of card or plastic....if you are anything like me you will pull off the practice piece wonderfully and then struggle with the real thing.

Colin

Oh my goodness, Colin. . . you mentioned that you "pulled off
the practice piece "wonderfully" and then "struggled" with the
real thing. Oh Durn Burn it. . . how many times have I done
that? Been there, done that. . . and (drum roll please) bought
the T-shirt. Paul. . . you just need to put the time in. Don't
be in a rush. . . Eventually, with all the practice, it will start
to come together. Acrylics? They are great, but my friend, they
are not easy. . . . Oils are more forgiving, naturally, but not as
fast as the quick drying acrylics. Just stay with it, and practice
on "el cheapo" pieces of figures. You'll get there. . . just have
faith. . .
The Miami Jayhawk

Good point on oils - as long as the surface you are painting on is dry, if you screw up, a little bit of thinner and a swipe of the brush and you are back to square one.

But when I was working on my most recent bust I had to do a lot of detailed insignia work and thought it would be easier to do in oils. Wrong....after struggling with the oils, I found the Valllejos were much easier to work with and provided much more defined detail. But in the end it comes down to what you are comfortable with.

Colin

Paul,

Acrylics over oils sounds like a good idea. As for how to do the lettering I have a few suggestions. I know some people have used artist pens for things like this. From the picture it looks like the writing should be in white... and I don't know if the pens come in white or how well white ones would work over paint. But that is one option you can explore. Alternatively, you can find stencils for letters in a variety of sizes and styles. I was just looking at a cannon and casson model my dad made (looked close to 54mm scale) and he did all of the lettering with small stencils. If you can find the right size and style, I'd think that would be the best way to go. If you can't, you can always attempt to paint them on free hand. I posted a step by step the other week on this topic ( http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/free-hand-designs.48350/ ). If you decide to go that route, I'd definitely recommend practicing on a piece of scrap before trying it on your mini.

By the way, for any of this small detail work I saw a technique that I thought was pretty slick. This is useful if you're doing small work where you really need a lot of control. You'll need something besides your hands to hold your mini, whether it's just resting in on your bench, putting it in a clamp, whatever. Hold you brush in your hand as normal but then take your other hand and press your index finger onto the brush right below the tip. This will steady your brush and give you a lot more control. If you're a little dubious, try painting your name in small scale on a piece of scrap using one hand as normal. Then try it using both hands. I think you'll be able to see a significant difference.

Best of luck!

Hi all

Thanks for all the help with this. One more question before I get started.

The red used by the British Army for their Shoulder Badges during Ww2, was it a particular colour or would any generic mid toned red be ok to use.

Many thanks

Paul

Thanks Carl

The figure is based on the Devonshire Regiment, if it helps the square badge below the Red "Devon" Badge looks to be Dark Blue or black with a Red TT on it.

Unfortunately I don't have any reference material available to check this out with any degree of accuracy.

This is the two badges


Paul

Many thanks Carl

Paul