I have just started painting my Neanderthal bust, using Games Worshop colors and I was not that happy with the result. I started using some Valejo colors instead. They feel a bit better. Are GW colors actually suitable for painting anything larger than 1/32?

I have painted metals with GW colours and they seem to be fine (on a 1/16th). I don't know about any of the other stuff because im still learning the ropes of painting Good luck and i hope that this is somewhat of some help

Daniel

I think in all honestly you could paint anything with any kind of paint, although the results aren't necessarily as good in any scale for a given medium (very dependent on the individual though, and the technique used).

What kind of issue did you have? Was it just that the colours didn't look good/right?

Einion

I've painted several pieces larger than 54mm (1/32nd) with Citadel paints and had very good results. I actually think Citadel paints are superior to Vallejo, but Vallejo has a larger selection

I've been using Andrea and Vallejo acrylics for several years now on (mainly) 54mm medieval foot figures. Recently, I began using Reaper acrylics and Liquitex Slo-Dri and Fluidant (a flow extender). I've also been paying more attention to layering and glazing to get better transitions. As for larger scales, I have used them on 75-80mm medieval foot figures as well and I've had no difficulty; I see no reason why they can't be used on even larger scales like 120mm or 200mm busts.

Like GW, Reaper paints were designed for use on gaming miniatures - generally 30mm and smaller. While I've found all of the paints are chemically compatible, I wonder if Reaper (and other gaming associated paints like GW) might have a finer ground pigment. They do seem more transparent, but that's easily solved with a tweak in painting technique.

I can't imagine GW paints aren't as equally good, especially after spending time looking at gaming minis painted as stand alone art pieces. Wow...

Cheers,

Glen

I have lots of old GW paints that have been mixed out with water. My Andrea Valejo colors have been around for quiet some time too. All my colors have been exposed to quiet some variations in temperatures, way above 30 (sometimes 40 degrees)degrees celsius and probably as low as 10 degress celsius. I made some earlier not so pleasing painting attempts on larger objects, with GW colors, they dont seem to handle bad treatment as well as Vallejo collors. But Im not sure how much it was a result of poor painting from me, quality of my paint, and the low room temperature that made the drying time to long.
Since Games Workshop seems to be in a process of replacing several of their older paints I'm not sure we are talking about the same colors here. According an employee in the local GW shop the new citadel colors contain alot more pigments than the older ones and can therefore last longer when dilluted with water, but I only have the old colors.

FWIW this wouldn't generally be a problem. Paints can be made to withstand variations in temperature they'd normally experience during shipping and storage (in unheated or uninsulated trucks and warehouses).

Hairdryer

Opinions on paints vary hugely and it's not just about the paint itself.

On CMON you get threads going back years where someone will swear by GW paints and others think they're crap. Different strokes for different folks.

Einion

I like both GW and Vallejo paints.

im the same, i use what ever i think will do better. Only thing i have realised is that over here is that the vellejo paints cost 4 cents more but they don't dry out as quickly as the GW paints.

a few thoughs...

i have been a painter for 30 years, for about 29 of them i used nothing but GW paints. i painted 30mm up to Giant size in GW ranges. the 'old' secret was to thin the piants like milk and apply many layers. the results were good and time consuming.
you can paint large figures but have to have more patience than with smaller figs. me, went and bought an airbrush so now the paints are dry as they hit the surface.
one of the common causes was when the paint had separated and the container was not properly shaken. an Eavy Metal trick was to thin the paints with ink instead of water and add a tiny amount of Wood Glue (pva) or washing up liquid to help the flow and improved adhesion and drying- i add water based matt varnish-; as mentioned above, a hairdryer was common too.
recently i bouhgt some Vallejho Model Air. these would be great for both A/B and brush as they come pre-thinned. i got the started set of 16 for £21 from Mr Models in Birmingham, UK. lots of folks- me too- use mixed media, you know, acrylic,oils, enamels, crushed pastels ect so go wild and experiment if you not content with Citadel paints.

all the best to you --- tim

Just my two cents......I've used Vallejos for probably the last five years or so and ahve used the Games Workshop ones as well, but the Reaper line of paints is the best by far, in my opinion. They seem to thin a little better and flow just a tad bit smoother as well. I never thought I'd find something better than my Vallejos ( I still use 'em quite a bit, don't get my wrong ) but after a good buddy of mine introduced be to them I was definitely a believer.

With the new Citadel Foundation paints GW has been movin on up with quality! I do think that the only issue I have is colour selection for some pieces, but other than that, they work quite well, mix well, and generally dry pretty flat these days!