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US Army Medic WW2 (VERLINDEN.120mm)

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by unknown01, May 21, 2008.

  1. unknown01 New Member

    Hello, everyone.:)
    I'm manufacturing US ARMY in VERLINDEN- MEDIC at present.
    This is 120mm figure.

    I tried in order to express a texture of clothes.



    (NO. 6) generates a granular texture.
    (NO. 7) generates a texture of fiber.

    These are mixed with paint and it's used.
    This thing makes the dryness early.
    These are put on the brush and it's being applied so that I may pick.
    It'll be to bury a mold to advance work.
    Then I fail.
    (NO. 7) also makes a texture like thread with in case of.
    I blew and observed gray paint after work was finished.
    I felt that the surface was a little too rough.
    So it was scraped off a little by a sandpaper.
    The surface still seems rough with an expanded picture.
    However I think I'd like this ordinarily to see.

    I think this material can be used for only more than 90 mm of figure.
    If that's the following scale, I think a particle is too rough.

    By the way is this work (the process of the construction)?
    Or (the process of the painting)?:confused:

    Attached Files:

  2. spectr New Member

    It's a good try but I think it still has to much texture for a small figure like this one.
    It looks like something went wrong with the casting (The porky pine look)
    anyway I would try to smooth it out a little more.
    Good luck,
  3. captnenglish Well-Known Member

    I agree with Andy
  4. unknown01 New Member

    Thank you very much for your comment, spectr,captnenglish.
    You are right.
    I think I'll correct on a little smoother surface.
    I'm planning to enter the process of painting after that.
  5. tonydawe A Fixture

    Hi Mitsutaka,

    I like the effects you are trying to achieve, but unfortunately the texture is out of scale with the figure. In my view, the texture you have applied to this figure is too big for this scale.

    I hope you can fix this, as this is a very good figure and I'm looking forward to seeing you paint it.

  6. Dan Morton A Fixture

    This is interesting. I've never worked with the stuff. Some questions.
    (1) Would it be possible to thin the Liquitex fiber mixture enough to reduce the effect to something usable?
    (2) If that doesn't work (and this may sound like a crazy suggestion), how about running the fiber mixture thru a kitchen blender first? In an industrial setting, something roughly similar is done to make thin, fiber-based air and water filters and other media. The fibers in the fiber mixture are reduced in size and thinned-out in the suspension (fewer of them after the blending) by adding a little (very little) liquid.
    I don't know if you want to go to such an extreme, but....

    All the best,
  7. unknown01 New Member

    Thank you very much for your comment, tonydawe,Dan Morton.

    Dan、I am thankful that you showed an interest in this try.
    I think in an honor.
    I think almost all your question could be grasped.

    They're able to thin gel.
    The amount of the mixed paint should be increased.
    However unfortunately, every kind of state is fixed for small of the particle of gel.
    When thinning and using, a grain tends to be diffused.
    When using without thinning, protuberance is formed, so this is also a problem.
    I think the surface will be the good state fairly when thinned one can be blown by a hand piece.
    However gel isn't paint, so I think this is also difficult.
    And a particle doesn't also become small in this case as expected.
    Please permit the thing which became the reply which doesn't live up to your expectations.

    The value of everyone doesn't seem too fine for this try.
    Certainly, I think so, too.
    But I think you could find out that it became like that when doing it this way.
    I didn't throw away anything as treating the surface perfectly.
    Indeed, something still a smaller particle also exists in a market.
    I'd like to show everyone the shape that it has been completed until the end.
  8. unknown01 New Member

    Us. Medic Ww2

    I primed a work by a hand piece.:)
    I use almost no brush in this stage.
    I'm black before an undercoat, and a coat does the whole.
    After this, I mixed a flat base with clear and made the work the perfect mat state.
    It's expected to advance towards painting of completion using a brush from here.

    Attached Files:

  9. Jeff Active Member

    I am not exactly sure why you wanted to add the texture to the figure? If he was supposed to have just fallen in to a lot of mud I can see it. But even then it would more then likely have been more localized on his uniform. The painting so far looks good.
  10. Barke02 Active Member

    Hi Mitsutaka,
    I understand completely where you are coming from. In this scale coarse cloth would have a noticeable texture. I have the A7V crewman figure by Jon Smith ( AKA Jon Smith Modellbau) and he has applied some kind of textural fibrous paste to the figure. (Is Jonny Smithy on this forum?....if so HELLO!)
    All the best,
  11. unknown01 New Member

    Thank you very much for your comment, Jeff,Barke02.

    I didn't know Mr. John Smith.
    He, already, try, seem?
    I couldn't bring about good results.

    The figure is three-dimensional.
    When it's a lot, the person who finds the significance to take something two-dimensional thinks of that for a figure painting.
    I was pursuing something as a system of painting of the figure which seems to be a picture simultaneously with you, too.
    it continued for5~6 years.
    But when one assumed texture to seem to be real cloth, I also think a system of the painting now may not be so necessary.
    For example we assume that 120mm figure was a nude body.
    When the pattern puts on the cloth clothes by which this figure is the real thing, and the sword is metal and is made of wood, and shoes are made of the leather and the string is also made of cloth....
    Such as, when I think, I think anything as how to catch of a figure at three dimensions can't also be ignored.
    I expressed my quite abstract opinion.
    I'm sorry.
  12. Robert Dominick Member

    I would suggest to use 400-800 grit wet sand sandpaper. You can use it wet or dry and lightly sand the figure to knock off or smooth down out the larger pieces of fiber.
  13. unknown01 New Member

    Us. Medic Ww2

    Thank you very much for your comment, Robert Dominick.:)
    That's a good idea.
    Thank you for advising me.
    I'd like to try this time.

    This stage is while it's completion painting.
    Almost all painting in a part of cloth is an end.
    Almost all face is also the end, but an eye and a lip aren't being applied.
    A detail isn't being still painted.
    A stretcher and a helmet are planning to glue together after painting ends.

    Attached Files:

  14. Jeff Active Member


    I think I understand what it is you are trying to do but I think that even at 120mm it is too much texture. I understand that you are trying something new, and I think that is a good thing. I want to be be constructive in what I say. I think most of the texture you are talking about can be done with paint effects rather then real texture, even at 120mm. When we get in to say 1/8 1/6 scale or say 200mm busts then more texture is a good thing.

    Look at the figure in this thread from the TimeLines board. Stefan did what you are talking about with paint alone rather then real texture. Yes, I know that this figure is small but it still works.


    You could do this same type of effect with a slightly thick paint and get what you seem to be looking for. But even at 120mm you need to keep the effect muted.

    I think scale viewing distance is something that really comes in to play here.
    Look at a person standing some distance from you and ask your self how much texture do I see on that persons clothes when they are the same size as a 120mm figure. I bet it will be a lot less then what you think. I hope that helps and is constructive.

  15. unknown01 New Member

    Thank you very much for your comment, Jeff.
    You're right.
    If it's this particle, if it isn't a figure beyond at least 1/9 scales, it looks unnatural.
    Thank you for introducing a wonderful site.
    I didn't know Mr.Stefan.
    There seem to be a lot of people who made such attempt.
    I think the one made with paint is preferred more, too, than a texture is made with gel as you say.
    I'd like to consider the way to make a smaller texture while seeing a site.
  16. Jeff Active Member


    I am glad that you understand. I have actually been thinking about textures on my figures as well but I have been thinking about how I could do this with painting the effects. My friend Peter has done this on some of his figures. I have an Adolf Galland he painted and you should see the leather jacket, just amazing. I will post a photo of the figure so you can see what I am talking about.
    I am all for experimenting with new techniques some are more successful then others. But if we do not try them then we never would know if they worked or not. ;)

  17. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Given the scale size of most figures I think it best to "suggest" most textures with paint rather than try to replicate them in miniature. Grant it the larger the scale the more options the sculptor and painter has open to them. ~Gary
  18. EasyOff Member

    I'm just not feelin' it. I think the texture is to much for the scale. Wicked nice idea though. If you should come to the conclusion that you're not happy with it and want to strip it, there's always EasyOff oven cleaner. If the figure is metal or most resins it won't hurt it. If you should use EasyOff, make sure that its the original and not the unscented, the unscented doesn't work like the original does. Oh ya, take care of yourself and wear a respirator while using the oven cleaner, also, make sure that there's plenty of ventillation. If you put the figure in a plastic container to spray into, don't put your face over it while spraying, you'll get spray back, and if your not wearing a respirator the stuff will get in your throat and burn all those micro-hairs in your nose and throat. Not good! If you should use a plastic container that looks like anything mom or your wife would use, make sure that you use a magic marker on the container and write something like... NOT FOR FOOD to prevent an accidental food poisoning. Spray a good coating all over the figure, then wait an hour or so, its best if you have the figure in a covered container as to retain the toxic gases LOL... no, really! :)

    I hope it works out for you, and, if you should find away to master that stuff, do share it again with us.

    Stay Motivated!!

    EasyOff <aka> John
  19. unknown01 New Member

    Thank you very much for your very kind advice, Jeff,garyjd,EasyOff.
    I'd like to see many people's works and collect daters about a texture.
    If a painter can express a texture by painting, I think sculptor can add that at the operational stage.
    I think I'll complete it and possess as a dater for future's comparison more than it'll be concerned with this work again.
  20. unknown01 New Member

    This my work has been completed on today.
    Thank you very much for much advice, everyone.
    I thank.
    I'd like to use this advice for future's hobby.:)

    Attached Files:

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