Hey,Guy,I must have missed this thread when it started ! GREAT JOB on the figure so far and nice to see a different approach to the same subject matter ! Like the others,I too will be looking forward to the next step in the SBS. Cheers !
Kenneth.

Thanks for the kind words Kenneth, I am glad you liked it. Yes, it is neat to see two different approaches to the same figure. Hope to have more pics today.

Hey Guy,

I am finally able to post something on this thread! Everytime that I have tried it sent me to an error page and then would not let me back in. Your figure is coming along nice. It is nice to see the different approaches. Look forward to the next pictures.

Joe

Guy,
The good painters always seek beautiful figures, we have of it an example with Guy and Roc . Cheer with you two and thank you Guy for your technical explanations

Thanks for the kind words Bruno, I appreciate them very much. I will try to go further with the steps I use in drybrushing.

Starting again on the pants of the Janissary, I brought out the old dry brush card and mixed a lighter colored mixture to do the pants another drybrush coat. With this drybrushing I will not use as much pressure on the drybrush and there fore not penetrate down into the folds as far.

Here is the old card and mix next to the newer mix which is lighter.



Now, here is the 1st dry brushed pants and following is the second dry brushed pants after the second lighter application.



2nd dry brush application



Here is the jacket and sash 1st drybrush mix. There will be another drybrush done with a lighter mix later.



1st Dry brushed coat and sash





I have done a step by step also on the flesh and will post later.

Hey Guy, the pants look great, nice shade of red.

Keep up the good work.

Roc.

Here are the steps I do to achieve the dark skinned figures alot of you know me for.

I use 6 colors of oils. 3 of the colors are my base coat I apply over Humbrol #121. The base mix is:

20% Burnt Sienna
40% Yellow Ochre ( yellow will determine depth of darkness of skin )
40% Raw Umber

The above are mixed and applied to all flesh areas.



I use a 3-ring notebook clear page protector as my palette and have inserted my formula for flesh into the protector. After finishing, I take my paint rag, already wet with thinner, and clean the paint off. Back into the notebook where I keep other pages with different formulas until the next figure.

After applying the base mix I take a clean flat dry brush and wipe off the base leaving the Humbrol #121 undercoat to lightly show through. The oil base mix will stay into the eye creases, mouth area, and any recessed area and just the highlighted areas will show with Humbrol. After removing the oil mix I apply yellow oil paint to the areas where the humbrol is showing through (highlighted areas. I let the yellow stay on the flesh area for 1 hour, then blend gently into the base mix.



Now I apply Titanium white to the same areas I applied yellow and again let it sit for an hour before blending into the flesh.



I now take Cadium Red and apply a dot of paint to each cheek and a small dot to the center of the top lip. I then blend this carefully out into the flesh area ( a little red goes a long way )

Red Added

Red blended into flesh and along upper lip.



The hands are done at the same time and set aside to dry afterwards.



I very carefully painted around the wet flesh areas to give more of an idea of how the flesh looks against other colors. The hat band is painted Humbrol Chocolate as an undercoat for brass.



All comments, critiques are, as always, welcome.

Hey Guy, i really like your method, sounds very interesting but unfortunatelly my friend the pictures are really poor . Also because i live near the boarders with Turkey, i have the chance to see a lot of them and comment on their skin tones. The red on his cheeks look a bit too much to me. Usually at that part of the face, the color is yellowish. If you need any more info message me, so we can talk.

Hey Guy,

I think he is turnout fine. I like how you tackle the skin colour. I learn so much from this SBS also that from Rocco.
Keep going.
But you sure need a new digicam

Greetings Marc.

Thanks for the encouragement Xenofon and Marc. I know.....my camera sucks when it comes to close-ups, but I tried. The red on his cheek does not show that prominent as it does in real life so maybe it is the lighting. I will have a friend take a few pics when I have finished the figure and retire the old digital to just landscapes.

Thanks guys.

Hey Guy,

I can't wait till i see them finished. And i now that your friend has a good digicam.
A bad picture can destroy a beautiful paintjob.
Maybe it is possible your friend come earlier.

Marc

Here is the Janissary together from the different work bases and epoxyed to the finished base. The feather on his hat will be added next as his weapons that attach to the sash. While some of this is drying I will work on the groundwork.









All comments welcome

Hey Guy, looking good, looking forward to your next step.


keep up the good work

Roc.

Hello Guy,

It turnout very very nice. At this moment i am glad that there be no judgement on both of your figures.

Marc

Nice work so far Guy !!! This is going to look good on that Ken Thomas base !!!

Thanks Roc, Marc and Johan for the encouragement. I was not going to take any more pics until I had a new camera but decided to finish out this last sbs as best I could. It has been mounted to a Ken Thomas Antique Oak base and will have plaster mix worked up around the rock the figure stands on.

Hey Guy,

That looks great !

I love the red pants....red's such a tough colour to get right and i think you've got it..
The base is very nice, does he offer tall square ones for single 54's ?
(Is there a contact/website?)

-Alex

Thanks for the comments Alex. Ken Thomas does not have a website but here is his address and phone:

Thomas Art Bases
1909 Woodstream Drive
York, PA 17402
1-717-757-2702