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WIP TRUE METAL versus NON METETAL

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by Paulo, May 8, 2017.

  1. Paulo Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Portugal
    IMG_20170507_101639 - Copie.jpg
    So …

    We meet again.
    I must say that I do prefer the True metal colors (personal taste). I believe is better suited for historic figures, I really like the shine because I where it for contrasting with the matt of tissues, and I take half of the time to do it, yes it is a lot faster (if you know the way….), I only use acrylics in this article.

    IMG_20170506_074708.jpg IMG_20170506_075346.jpg IMG_20170506_080139.jpg

    So, my tips are :
    Solid dark base color, very dark brown. With acrylics you really need it, if you start with white or gray primer forget it you won’t be able, to reach a good result. Base is smoke from Vallejo + old gold + 1 touch of green. Smoke has a granulated texture and this is good for what I want.
    IMG_20170506_080630.jpg IMG_20170506_081140.jpg
    It should look like this to start ...
    Don´t dilute the metal colors. Put only a half a drop (less if possible) of water in order to help the paint slide on the figure.
    Take a bit of paint and put on the figure, immediately push the paint, far way, in order to leave a thin layer every were and corner of your armor.
    It will not cover, is normal, that’s why we putt dark color first. Even not diluted You´ll see that acrylic is somewhat transparent.
    IMG_20170506_080544.jpg

    Let it dry completely and attack again. Two layers should be enough. Don´t insist too much. The future layers of lights and shadows will cover it properly. Remember LESS HIS MORE




    The first part takes a litlle bit of time but if you do it right now is easy until the end (and fast)

    IMG_20170506_082055.jpg IMG_20170506_082110.jpg

    Start giving volumes with base +old gold
    IMG_20170506_074735.jpg IMG_20170506_083410.jpg
    Continue and with previous + gold

    IMG_20170506_083354.jpg IMG_20170506_083416.jpg




    This time we will continue adding lights until finish last light, instead of balancing with shadows (I will tell you why)
    IMG_20170506_074750.jpg











    Attached Files:

  2. Paulo Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Portugal
    As said before Scale 75 alchemie metal colors are the best and finest pigment (for me) on the market, thats why I use it on the end, my bahse color is already solid at this point, and with this finer pigment I´ll make a Mirror look like on the selected spots
    IMG_20170506_074750.jpg IMG_20170506_075346.jpg
    IMG_20170506_085724.jpg
  3. Paulo Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Portugal
    IMG_20170506_094025.jpg IMG_20170506_094044.jpg IMG_20170506_094025.jpg IMG_20170506_094044.jpg Give the last adding speed metal of Scale 75. Ad some scratches, edges and last lights
    Take a bether look and see if you are happy with the result. If your not shore STOP, put the shadows and if necessary come back again to lights (I always give a final touch)
    IMG_20170506_094025.jpg IMG_20170506_094044.jpg

    Shadow time – STOP – again !!

    IMG_20170506_090130 - Copie - Copie.jpg IMG_20170506_090414 - Copie.jpg

    Important, metal colors have metal particules, this particules stay on the water, you can see it on the paper the shinning dots, in the water is more difficult to see. So the next step is to throw away the water the cleaning paper and wash your brush, in order to finish this shinning components.

    IMG_20170506_074810.jpg IMG_20170506_074822.jpg
    Base color plus shadows, dgreen is the oxidation color that is usually associated to brass.
    This coelia green shade is a kind of ink from citadel, good for shadows and veils
    IMG_20170506_092300.jpg IMG_20170506_092338.jpg


    For veils above the eye were brown (warm color) goes bether for this place

    IMG_20170506_093520.jpg IMG_20170507_101547 - Copie.jpg

    Final consideration : wlk around and change what you don´t like. If you think it laks:
    Shadows
    lights


    veils
    add it and Bingo !!! your Piranha is ready

    IMG_20170507_101639.jpg IMG_20170507_101714.jpg

    Once again it is a pleasure to help, don´t be afraid to try, make mistakes is also a lesson

    Let you choose watts your style MNM X TM the decision his yours

    IMG_20170507_101547 - Copie.jpg IMG_20170507_101639 - Copie.jpg



    IMG_20170506_093535.jpg IMG_20170506_093858.jpg




    IMG_20170506_094033.jpg IMG_20170506_093927.jpg


    Happy paintings


    Attached Files:

  4. samson Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Great stuff
  5. fermatgom Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Spain
    What a nice tutorial you've done!!!
  6. Alex Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Very good tutorial.

    I do prefer also true metal finish for fantasy or historic figures. I find that non metal is good for 2D art but does not work as well for 3D art.

    Cheers

    Alex
  7. Bootneck Well-Known Member

    Thanks for taking time to explain another method.
    Peter.
  8. chailey Active Member

    Country:
    England
    Useful and informative, certainly cant argue with the results!

    Steve
  9. KuK_Grenadier PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    Austria
    Thanks again for a great SBS!

    Christian
  10. pkessling Member

    Excellent tutorial. Love the final result. I always preferred "real metallics" on larger scale figures.
  11. evl hmr Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Excellent tutorial. You have made me want to paint my Abyssal Warlord now.
    Nicolaos likes this.
  12. Paulo Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Portugal
    Thank you for your feedback
    this kind ofthings takes a lot of time doing (planning, photos, sbs, take notes, posting) but your ansewrs made me happy to be usefull.
    I´ll be posting , mostly my works, but I´ll try to do some subject like this from time to time.
    Once again , thanks, and keep working

    Happy paintings !!!
  13. Nicolaos Active Member

    Warm thanks for your kindess to share this interesting experience with us!
    Cheers,
    Nicolae

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