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Tommy of 1915

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by Dan Morton, Aug 5, 2007.

  1. Dan Morton A Fixture

    This is definitely WIP, not even cleaned very well, but thought you might like to see it.

    It may be difficult to tell from the photos, but I've used mostly MagicSculpt but a little Pro-Create (hence the darker grey in some areas). Sorry for the confusion.

    I'm sculpting and assembling bit by bit, working from the inside out. My first head/face and my first attempt to put a figure together so that it can be cast. No kit parts.

    I didn't exactly get a likeness of the very square-jawed youth in the Tommy of 1915 photo I showed you in an earlier post, but I think he looks vaguely like 'em.

    No arms and only a little chest. The upper part of the coat will (probably?) include shoulders and place-holders for the arms/sleeves. He will be wearing M1908 cotton webbing equipment with ammo pouches. I plan to make the cut for the lower part of the coat just below the webbing belt/ammo pouches. This is (what else?) in 120mm.

    He will be equipped with -
    >M1902 khaki field service tunic (altho you won't be able to see much of it!)
    >M1902 khaki field service trousers
    >M1902 khaki putties wound up from ankle to knee and tucked into trouser bottoms. Hobnailed, blackened "ammunition" boots
    >On right hip, M1908 entrenching tool head in khaki carrier and 2 pint water bottle covered with khaki cloth and hooked to belt
    >On left hip, M1908 khaki haversack, infantry mess tin in canvas cover hung off of haversack, bayonet scabbard, entrenching tool helve attached by straps
    >M1908 cotton webbing equipment with two sets each left and right of five cartridge pouches, each carrying three five round charger clips, total of 150 rounds. This is on the outside of the great coat. Very broad waist belt with brass elongated buckle, left open. The back pack is strapped to the webbing.
    >Short Magazine Lee Enfield (SMLE) rifle, No. 1, Mark III, 0.303 inch caliber with M1908 cotton webbing sling
    >Furry goat skin vest worn over service tunic and under "British Warm" great coat
    >M1915 trench cap, known as the 'Gor' Blimey', with the cap badge of the Kings Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, 'KOYLI'
    >Phenate hexamine (PH) type anti-gas hood in small two button satchel

    Lots more to do. Hope you like it.

    All the best,

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  2. diamond cutter Active Member


    Hey Dan
    Looks like a figure in the early stages!
    I would have made the head first, (completely), the armature w/ boots, then 'clothed the figure from boots (complete) to the straps,buckles etc.
    Adding the fur at this early stage would make it difficult to add the garments, etc that are underneath (IMHO)
    I think that the WW1 Tommy has a certain 'unique' look to him-(they ate all of the veg's as kids!)
    It's a very ambitious subject, and also not one for the faint-hearted, for which I congratulate you mate!
    Don't be afraid to carve away something that you are not happy with!
    A great start to this figure!
    Looking foward to seeing further developements mate!
  3. Dan Morton A Fixture

    Thanks, Pete! Actually, the head is separate. I made a peg for the bottom and slot for the top. Didn't finish the head first, I sorta work on one thing, put it in the hot pot, work on another, put it in hot pot, etc., etc. Back and forth.

    The only reason I put the goat hair on at this stage was so that when I add the great coat over the whole shmere, it will look right. You are right tho' about cutting some of it off. That might be necessary. Kinda depends how the great coat fits. I'm trying to decide now if I should do any shoulders at all before the great coat goes on. All the rest of the equipment goes on top of the great coat or at least on the outside of it.

    All the best,

    Attached Files:

  4. amcairns A Fixture

    Good Work Dan

    Dan ,
    I will agree with the diamond cutter on aspects he has picked out.There is a lot happening in this figure that needs careful attention.
    The smile,the thing with the smile or any smile on any model is to work the negative shapes around the mouth.It is easy to make the "U" shape that we all recognise,but think of the muscles around the mouth that create the movement.It only needs a slight tweak with a tool and the whole expression of the face changes.I have learnt this the hard way with repitition.If need be try an experiment with some plasticene and a toothpick(my favourite tool,next to the knitting needle).
    I know that you are working from a photo,this has advantages,but it is from only one angle.We,re either going to do guess work for the other unseen side or work on a plasticene figure to get the flow of the folds before setting them in concrete if you know what I mean.
    I will follow this subject with interest.
  5. elanlane13 A Fixture

    Dan, a good start and excellent subject choice. Your proportions look good.

    Have a look at the way the neck joins into the body in your photo and then compare with your figure. You have given him a much more upright stance. There is a danger he will end up looking wooden and not natural. I have done this on several occasions!!

    I look forward to seeing this one develop.
  6. Dan Morton A Fixture

    Many thanks, Andy and Robert! I'll take care with the aspects you mentioned.

    All the best,
  7. 1969 A Fixture

    Good luck with this one Dan,looks like a very interesting figure to sculpt and you are of to a good start.

  8. jjgurk Member

    Very nice piece, Dan. That is one i would really like to paint.

  9. Dan Morton A Fixture

    Steve and John - Many thanks! I'm just sending the finished head and some other bits to the caster. I went back over the head very carefully, adding smile crease lines, a line below the lower lip and slightly emphasizing lines below the lower eye bag. And cleaning, cleaning, cleaning.

    John - I'm very glad you said that! :) More info forthcoming when all is complete.

    All the best,

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