Well Pedee, maybe i'm not the great painter you are, maybe you were only a bit confused by trouser and face colors, which were still a try out, and not the actual result.
But this is the finished off figure, with a waterbased paint which can be used both like an acrylic or like an oil paint.




This way, if anyone is interested in seeing how the figure progresses, I will go on showing my technique, so as any other modeller here...

Looks good to me..id like to see the rest of the progress report

For what it is worth, I'm interested to learn more about this type of paint and wouldn't mind more details in this thread. Fine if it is an advertorial, as long as this is clearly mentioned.

I have heard of water-soluble oil paints....is this what these paints are?

Adrian

As previously stated in the thread....they are resin based Adrian...not oil

Maybe so,
with respect that's his problem.
He's saying they blend and they don't.
He's just replied wait till the end and judge then.
Well if they ain't blended when he took the photo they ain't going to....I'm off!

Good luck to them I did say I like the groundwork prodct though looks good to me.

Sticking with what I already use and wet blending !

Paul.

Thanks, I am trying the new stuff because I have to purchase everything online anyway, and quietly literally saw some of the stuff in a photo showing a model aircraft in progress on a UK editors desk in a model mag...I am sensitive to chemicals and used to use enamels with oils, and wanted to try something potentially less offensive to my nose..hope to be able to show some of my work before long that will at least be an independent review. We are moving house right now, so things are getting packed.

I have to say, this site jumps out as being supportive...on some other model sites people don't get the difference between criticism and critique. In anything halfway creative we progress through critique...and sharing. I am finding both here

Good luck moving house.Johmny it's always a nightmare.
I don't like criticising from anything but a positive standpoint.
when I made the points I did earlier it was because I feel the contribution made unfair claims in a form that led us to believe
a modeller was showing us something as he went along.
I challenged this and the next photo was of an obviously previously finished item.
It now seems more clear to me that the complete thread could have been released in one go but is a planned marketing exercise.
I have no problem with that, just be honest if you re doing so, we are all eager to see new products.......that work.

Please let us know what medium you will use ...It will doubtless be a help to others at some time.
I have to use latex gloves with epoxy putty.

Paul.

...or just the few time I have to cut, load pictures, post in, write text and so on... Since thankfully I have many other things to do.
...or the obvious (not for you it seems) absurdity to load so many pictures and steps in an only go...

But obviously, when someone is bad-thinking, bad-talking, and absolutely needs to keep on this role...

Nope not bad thinking I only think good things.
I am on my 'happy place'; happy in the certain knowledge that these photos will all be part of the
on-line leaflet.
Good luck to you, this much effort deserves success.

Paul.

No go on on some more concrete basis.

Trousers. You have seen on previous pictures a first coat of buff, which I later noticed as a too prominent and yellowish color, but a good basis for subsequent steps.

The "basic shadow" color was here used again, mixed with buff directly over the figure, starting from the almost hidden areas, then progressively adding buff moving to the forward areas. Sadly, pictures are a bit cold due to different lighting, but that's the risk of an in progress paint-and-depict process.





A bit of white was then blended to the foreground area



Into a closed ceramic palette, paints stay fresh along, getting progressively denser, and can be used for retouches for hours, till the day after or more, depending upon amount.

Maybe, Mr. Commission Painter. Who is without sin, cast the first stone.
Cheers,
Beppe

Now maybe better to add some life to this figure, painting face.

The first step was pink skin color tone, already seen in previous pictures. I just dirted a bit the face with a fresh coat of an intermediate tone, named skintone warm 2.






Directly over this fresh coat, shadows added under eyebrows, chin and so on, with skintone warm 3, which is the darker shadow tone.

Lights made with pink skin again, and maybe far touch of naples yellow.
The actual blending was just made on larger transitional areas, like between the under-the-eyes spot and cheeks, with the stippling motion of a soft brush n 2.
Eyes retouched too, with some white dirted with the light skin tone.

Since the paint applied on surface gets denser, this way looking like an oil paint, brush-made blending maybe easier adding a little bit more paint and waiting some seconds before action.







This the half-way-result, still drying, after a couple minutes.





...And thank you to everyone following, also the gruffs...

Stop folks. That's a forum to enjoy and learn. For angry discussions we have our jobs, bosses, and daily problems.
I'm interesting in this SBS. Never see these brand before PF, and it's a good stuff paints that can be used with oils and acrylics properties. Looking this thread everyone can decided if your products like or not. Better than buy and test without references. I'll follow till the end the Ironwork painting.
In the other side, i'm not too much time at PF, but Peedee is IMO an active member that use to write what thinks about, and all of us are subject to criticism when we put something here. I read a bad critic with an explanation about it. A constructive critic.
Sure there are more members of PF that think the same that Peedee wrote, and others want to look the process. Obviously the skills of the painter are an important factor to the final score, but the level of Smudger, Bailey, Alex or Brian is not the habitual between us.
So please, continue with this vBench and try to see the criticism as something to improve your painting, or maybe your products.

I agree with that..it's critique vs criticism. And this is small stuff in the scheme of daily life..should be no harm no foul and it's all with good intentions. For my part I am looking for ways to improve and to more enjoy life

That is

An adv should be the fastest, also cheaper way to promote products. A thread instead is subject to critics and questions, It's also risky since based on my actual out of practice painting skills, and to hurried up in-progress pictures. But I think this is the the most correct and honest way to show products potential, and thank you to forum for this opportunity.

So as everyone who takes on himself the critics should be free to answer with the same straightforwardness. To anyone is the source of criticism, be he imo, god on earth, a Queen's cousin...
No bad mood from me, no duel, just answers to critics. And to criticism, which as long as I know is all another thing.

A little blending drill, just to show you can achieve any size of blending, where you want to.
Let's go back to the overcoat colors. The "basic shadow" tone, which was a mix of sdw greygreen and sdw bistro, is painted on a coat of multimedia primer, which is the light and matt color you see on the right.
As the needed surface is covered (leftmost side), the paint is rebrushed to achieve an evenly coating (center area of sample)



This is the result of rebrushing, in poor words a single coat of well stretched sdw paint



Now this coat is let to dry for (prudently) 2-3 hours.
Meanwhile, brushes can be simply cleaned with water and hand-soap

Now the surface is recoated with the shadow base tone, and next steps will be added over this fresh layer.



( One note ) : this is not the only shading technique for sdw colors, but simply a good method to ease blending on the little areas of a figure, and is the same technique explained until now for overcoat, trousers )

For an extremely soft transition, add a minimal of paint (the central color in the palette, which is the mix used for the overcoat :greygreen+buff+ a touch of the basic shadow) and blend it brushing vertically.




A stronger transition is achieved adding more of the greenish color



... and blending it on the rightmost side with the same brush along the edge of the two colors. (bristles are first discharged of any excess on a towel), or with another clean and dry soft brush.

Here instead i added more color to the leftmost side



... to add further light with the lightest greenish tone and blend it

After some hours the color's transition will be slightly softer, with a moderately matt finish (for this test i added no sdw matt additive), and all thickness of brushmarks, due to paint getting denser and thicker while working on it, will disappear.




This is a far larger area than we will ever need on any figure, and a nice drill to get accustomed with the method.