Hi,
I'm in the planning stage of a concersion project that will need a scratch built sabre blade, but i don't have the slightest idea of how to tackle it . So, any of you guys have a tip on that? I'm especially set back by modelling the grooves that run the lenght of the blade.

Hi,
I'm in the planning stage of a concersion project that will need a scratch built sabre blade, but i don't have the slightest idea of how to tackle it . So, any of you guys have a tip on that? I'm especially set back by modelling the grooves that run the lenght of the blade.

Luis, You could use a piece of plastic strip stock. You could scribe or file the fuller (groove) onto the plastic.~Gary

Luis, You could use a piece of plastic strip stock. You could scribe or file the fuller (groove) onto the plastic.~Gary

great question!
and a great challenge
scale?
my approach would be:
Would it be better to bend than break?
if bend, then i'd choose to work with white-metal, brass or copper
if break, then an epoxy putty medium

modding a piece of white-metal would not be hard andwould yield a piece that could be flexible..
making it of putty of course would make it brittle and prone to breaking..

great question!
and a great challenge
scale?
my approach would be:
Would it be better to bend than break?
if bend, then i'd choose to work with white-metal, brass or copper
if break, then an epoxy putty medium

modding a piece of white-metal would not be hard andwould yield a piece that could be flexible..
making it of putty of course would make it brittle and prone to breaking..

Scale=90mm

The challenge is bigger than i thought as some research has revealed the sword i want to depict has TWO parallel fullers. Scribing and/or filing?...I think i won't be able to scribe/file two grooves per side and keep them parallel and consistent in depth and width.

Scale=90mm

The challenge is bigger than i thought as some research has revealed the sword i want to depict has TWO parallel fullers. Scribing and/or filing?...I think i won't be able to scribe/file two grooves per side and keep them parallel and consistent in depth and width.

plastic is a good choice, of course scribe the lines first, then cut the blade out...

much easier to work scribing first

plastic is a good choice, of course scribe the lines first, then cut the blade out...

much easier to work scribing first

If you're using putty I'd scribe a wider groove and then add the center thinner line later. Even on plastic for that matter

If you're using putty I'd scribe a wider groove and then add the center thinner line later. Even on plastic for that matter

Luis,

Which ever method you choose, make your blade about 5-10 cm longer. The extra length will serve as a handle. You'll trim it away after the blade is finished.

Good luck!

Quang

Luis,

Which ever method you choose, make your blade about 5-10 cm longer. The extra length will serve as a handle. You'll trim it away after the blade is finished.

Good luck!

Quang

You could try talking to a company that has a Laser cutting machine. Some of the ones I've seen can cut and grove in plastic and soft metal. I dont know how much they would charge for some thing like this, but it maybe worth having a chat to them to see what the machine can do. If its not to pricey have a few made up.

Jason

You could try talking to a company that has a Laser cutting machine. Some of the ones I've seen can cut and grove in plastic and soft metal. I dont know how much they would charge for some thing like this, but it maybe worth having a chat to them to see what the machine can do. If its not to pricey have a few made up.

Jason

Laser modelling!!! I like how it sounds
If I do find a company that can do that for a reasonable price, I'll have to take care not to be attracted by the force's dark side :lol:

Laser modelling!!! I like how it sounds
If I do find a company that can do that for a reasonable price, I'll have to take care not to be attracted by the force's dark side :lol:

Hi Luis.

Depending on the scale, as this will only work at 90mm upwards. My method is to sculpt two halves of the blade on a piece of plastic card and then stick them together.

That way you can get grooves and filigrees to match.

Richard

Hi Luis.

Depending on the scale, as this will only work at 90mm upwards. My method is to sculpt two halves of the blade on a piece of plastic card and then stick them together.

That way you can get grooves and filigrees to match.

Richard