1. Copying kits is a crime that hurts original artists & producers. Help support your favorite artists by buying their original works. PlanetFigure will not tolerate any activities related to recasting, and will report recasters to authorities. Thank you for your support!

Acrylics Shading and Highlight Help.

Discussion in 'Painting Techniques' started by mick3272, Aug 20, 2015.

  1. mick3272 A Fixture

    As the title indicates Having just posted Capt Mercer, I was given advise about shading and highlights.
    As I only use acrylics can someone point me in the right direction. I have looked at Colour wheels (clear as mud) so what I need is a small idiots guide I can work on and allow to grow.
    As the majority of my figures are Victorian British can we start with Reds and Blues.
    I understand with RED you can add Green to Shadow and Yellow to highlight, to the base colour.

    With BLUE I have read you add Black to shadow and a light Blue for highlights Is this right???? As I thought you didn't add black or white to darken or lighten.

    Any pointers would be appreciated.
    Scotty likes this.
  2. arj A Fixture

    Ferris and mick3272 like this.
  3. fabrizio1969 A Fixture

    for red i use yellow and for highligt yellow and light flesh,for darker red brown,green and a bit of back. for blue use black for darker and light flesh or white for highlight
    mick3272 and Scotty like this.
  4. ATTİLA the HUN Well-Known Member

    Mick, I have used Blue for shadow dark blue for highlight Lighter blue(Base colour)
    I hope you help it.
    mick3272 and Scotty like this.
  5. mick3272 A Fixture

    Andrew. Thanks for the link I have read through it but will need to read it a couple of more times to get the info into my bacon bonce but the info is all there.

    Fabrizio & Attila. Thank you both. Yes thats all good and very helpful. Thank you.

    fabrizio1969 likes this.
  6. ChaosCossack A Fixture

    For reds I use (depending on the base shade of red) either sunny skin tone, scarlet or light orange added to the base for highs and black green or burnt cadmium red for shadows.
    For dark blues, I start with dark Prussian blue and black as a base. Adding sky grey gives the highlights, adding more black gives me the shadows.
    For either colour when they need to look less than pristine, I add a touch of English uniform to the base.

    All the above colours are vallajo model colour

    Hope this helps some

    mick3272 likes this.
  7. swralph A Fixture

    Hi Mick.
    You may find this useful.It's in German with English subtitle's.
    You can skip the first 10 minute's as it's only putting the kit together.

    mick3272 likes this.
  8. Tubby-Nuts2 A Fixture

    An interesting thread. .. As we all know there will be so many variants of approach by different members to get to the same end.:) My focus will be on the 'Reds',.. However, it's always good to know the varying methodology of the 'Blues'.

    mick3272 likes this.
  9. mick3272 A Fixture

    Colin. Thank you. I can follow your advice simple when you know how. Will have to pop out and get another couple of paints.( Can just hear her indoors Whatdo you need more paints for haven't you got enough..

    Ralph. Thank for the vid I have had a quick nose. but will have to watch it when I have 27 mins to myself.

  10. Eludia A Fixture

    For blue I just mix with black for shades and with white to highlight (or naples yellow or sunny skin tone e.g. if you're working in acrylic, I use oils) .

    Reds are the tricky buggers, especially highlighting - add white and you get pink, add yellow and you get orange. The method I have found works best for me is just to forget highlights altogether and just concentrate on shading. This means your base coat will be your brightest light (a nice bright scarlet is good), then I add enough green to the red to get my darkest shadow then your mid tones are simply mixes of the two in varying proportions
    mick3272 likes this.
  11. mick3272 A Fixture

    Thanks Billy. More good info to work with.
  12. Tubby-Nuts2 A Fixture

    I have been looking at various videos/clips. As regards painting/blending, with 'Acrylics'. My conclusion being is, 'How much more work'. !!! ? :eek::eek:x 10:eek:'s

    Sorry Mick, This squirrel will stick with oils! ... By far the easier medium! :D

    Now for the veritable incoming 'Flack'. :whistle::oops:

  13. mick3272 A Fixture

    When I first started (That was when Hyde Park was still in a flower pot) The only paint available was Humbrol. Then work, wife, and kids came along. hen I returned to the hobby a couple of years ago I purchased my first fig in 35yrs from Historex and discovered acrylics far better than Humbrol. so Ive stuck with them and although tempted I dont have the room. so this Harp will stick with acrylics.
    Tubby-Nuts2 likes this.
  14. Ferris A Fixture

    I found the whole colour thing equally daunting when I started with figures. Also still haven't mastered the colour wheel, but am starting to see its use.
    I wouldn't worry too much about theory and simply spend more time on experimenting. Have some practice pieces on the side all of the time and go for it, mixing colours by intuition and see what looks good and bad. Continue with the things that look well, and continue experimenting with them as a start.
    And above all: Write down what you did! This sounds simple, but it is all to easy to postpone this boring part (sounds like discipline) to tomorrow. By then you don't really remember and there are too many paint bottles on your desk to back-track.

    Now that may not be concretely helpful, so let me add one thing that I have come to appreciate: maintain harmony between your colours. The easiest way to do that is to use as few different colours as possible for a figure, and to share some of them in every mix. This is easiest to do with modern era figures, such as WW1/2 figures: if the dominant tone is khaki-ish, such as for many british subjects, pick one khaki colour, such as Vallejo english uniform 921, and include more or less of this in ebery other colour you use. It will create a relation to all colours and make for a more harmonious result.
    This is particularly important when doing camouflage patterns.

    Main tip I would give is to experiment. Good thing is you can do this in 'lost moments'; 15 min of hobby time is enough to do one. You can also do this when you lack inspiration for any 'real' work.

    Hope this is helpful.

    mick3272 likes this.
  15. mick3272 A Fixture

    Thanks Adrian. I have started to use little plastic colour cards that I can build up the shadows etc and if it dosnt work out I can clean them off and start again. Lets see how the next figure turns out. Thankfully I dont do camouflage patterns.

Share This Page

planetFigure Links

Reviews & Open Box
Buy. Sell & trade
Link Directory

Popular Sections

Figure & Minis News
vBench - Works in Progress
Painting Talk
Sculpting Talk
Digital Sculpting Talk
The Lounge
Report Piracy

Who we are

planetFigure is a community built around miniature painters, sculptors and collectors, We are here to exchange support, Information & Resources.

© planetFigure 2003 - 2022.