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Sculpting SBS Part One

Discussion in 'Sculpting' started by carl reid, Jan 4, 2015.

  1. carl reid A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    Chris is right you've made a great start!
    All you have to remember is you have nothing to lose, and everything to gain.

    The forehead, brow and nose position is pretty good.
    it wouldn't take much to make your work into a good head sculpt.
    Try and remember there's a symmetry between the left and right side of the face.
    I think if you add some material to the top of the head, and a little to the chin area. Creating a symmetrical jawline. Together with eye balls it should start taking shape.
    This should give more confidence to plough on.

    Carl
  2. Funky50 Guest

    Been having a go at a 200mm Head but got a bit disheartened always seem to end up with something akin to a gargoyle LOL....Great thread though Carl thanks for taking the time to do....Kevin

    Attached Files:

    BarrieHynd, Scotty and carl reid like this.
  3. carl reid A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    Hi Kevin,

    It looks ok mate! A bit more work and it should start taking shape, and the more shape it takes, the more your confidence will grow.

    If you lower the brow line, and bulk out mouth area. You should see a big difference.
    you bulk the mouth by adding an upper and lower lip. This should bulk the mouth sufficiently.
    I would also lower ear slightly. The position of the ear is the height of eyebrow to chin. Then then pivot the dividers back from the point the of chin and the point of the eyebrow. Where they both meet is approximately the point of the ear hole. This also helps with the position of the jaw line.

    But don't be disappointed, you are definitely going in the right direction.

    Carl
  4. Rich Sculpts A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Hi Kevin a great start! I always use a facial plane model as reference for facial features, you may find this image useful as you continue your sculpture.

    male-planes-head_1.jpg

    -Rich
    BarrieHynd, carl reid, arj and 3 others like this.
  5. Funky50 Guest

    Thanks Carl will implement these changes and repost....Thanks Rich I did start with the basic shape and then cut the planes with a razor (medium is wax) a bit more angular than your pic but on the whole similar.....the whole process certainly gives you a whole new appreciation of how talented you guys are......Kevin
    carl reid, Rich Sculpts and Scotty like this.
  6. arj A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Thanks Rich for the facial plane model. I've already been told by Martin Tabony (in Stu's post) to look at "planes of the face" on Google. Up to now I've been trying to follow muscle locations and smooth out the result. On my next attempt I'll try to incorporate the 'planes' approach.
    In the meantime, here's my third attempt at a head (scale is 1/10):-

    IMG_0898r to 0900r.jpg

    Cheers,
    Andrew
  7. Richie A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Hi Carl,
    Thank you for taking the time to do this, very informative. What brand of sculpey do you use? is it just standard? and do you mix it with anything? what size ball bearings do you use for the eyes per scale?
    NOTE to the moderators can this be put as a sticky at the top of the page.
    cheers
    Richie
  8. carl reid A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    Hi Richie,
    Glad you find this thread informative.
    It was my intention to pass on as much as i could. It's very difficult to explain everything. In some cases its easier to show than explain. But hopefully its helped a little.
    The Sculpey i use is standard and black. I only add the black as visual aid. It's not for any practical or curing reason. Just an aid for me to see what I'm doing.

    The ball bearings I use are 1mm to 2.5mm.
    In this case I used 2.5mm I think. But the often sink into the head slightly as I work, so I often remake the eyeballs with a Magic-Sculpt, Duro mix. I wait for this cure then build the lids in Sculpey or Magic-Sculpt. Either is suitable.

    Carl
    BarrieHynd, arj and Richie like this.
  9. carl reid A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    Hi Rich,
    I find it hard to use face planes.
    I tend to use a book of facial expressions I have. I find this gives me more freedom and scope to manipulate the face. But thats only the I do it. Others use different methods with fantastic results.

    Its the same as the body of the piece. I sculpt everything on a wire armature. I can't use dollies and convert them. I find it quicker to sculpt the piece from scratch on a wire.


    Carl
    arj and Rich Sculpts like this.
  10. Blind Pew A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Carl, thank you for this. It'll be my bible for the foreseeable.......
    carl reid likes this.
  11. Funky50 Guest

    Had a play about with this last night and implemented the changes that you suggested Carl and was pleased with the result starting to look less ape like Sorry for the rubbish pictures taken with Ipad....Kevin image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
  12. garyhiggins A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    That looks a lot better Kevin(y)
    BarrieHynd, Funky50 and carl reid like this.
  13. carl reid A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    That looks much better mate.
    You've now got a good basic head formed. You can use that principle for every head no matter what scale.

    Now it comes to refining the face. But for this you need study human faces. With pictoral evidence, and you will begin to notice the different subtle variations that change the features. Or give different attitudes to the face. For axample by raising or lowering the brow creates a whole different face with an entirely different meaning.

    Hopefully this head has given you the confidence to carry on, and develop your skills further.

    Carl
  14. carl reid A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    Thanks mate! I hope its a little help to those who want to dabble with the putty.
    I'm not sure it's the holy bible though. Its just the way I approach it. Like I said previously other sculptors produce unbeivable works of art with a completely different method. So I guess just gather as much information, from as many sources as you can then develop your own bespoke method from everyone.

    Carl
    Scotty, BarrieHynd and (deleted user) like this.
  15. Funky50 Guest

    Thanks to all for the encouragement and to Carl for the nudges in the right direction Very much appreciated....Kevin
    BarrieHynd and carl reid like this.
  16. BarrieHynd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Scotland
    Thanks for your input and advice on what to do next. Got Sculpey on order to try and see what happens compared to Magic-Sculpt. Also got various sizes of ball-bearings on order. Won't get more done until the weekend unfortunately.

    Barrie
    carl reid likes this.
  17. BarrieHynd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Scotland
    Kevin, that's good progress you've made there, it shows that you are enjoying yourself mate.
    Well done.

    Barrie.
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  18. BarrieHynd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Scotland
    Well, here I go again with another attempt, minus the ears. Can see it still needs tidying up and redoing in certain places but your thoughts are of course welcome.
    WP_20150111_002.jpg WP_20150111_001.jpg WP_20150111_003.jpg

    Scale is again 120mm and using Sculpey this time.

    Cheers,Barrie.
    arj, Funky50 and garyhiggins like this.
  19. BarrieHynd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Scotland
    Been trying to refine certain areas on this but think it is going from bad to worse. Maybe time to stop and start again. Have been having real problems with the mouth, chin, nose and eye areas. What do you guys think, persevere or start afresh?
    WP_20150118_002.jpg WP_20150118_003.jpg WP_20150118_004.jpg WP_20150118_006.jpg WP_20150118_007.jpg

    Barrie
    arj likes this.
  20. Joe Osborne Member

    Barrie,

    I'd like to see you finish as I think you've done very well so far, and there would be more to learn by doing the ears and hair.
    BarrieHynd and Scotty like this.

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