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Sculpting arrows in 54mm

Discussion in 'Sculpting' started by lopee, Jul 23, 2007.

  1. lopee Active Member

    Country:
    Czech-Republic
    Hi everyone, have you got an idea how to sculpt an arrow in this scale (54mm)? No matter what I do, finally it's still the same: a toy-like something :eek: > A bar with a ball at the end. How to model a real-like feathers at the end of the arrow? Thank you for your help, Martin.
  2. Uruk-Hai PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    Sweden
    Ive used plastic rod from Plastruct with apropiate diameter. The fins were cut from thin plastic card and glued on. You can also make some basic feather structure on the fins with sandpaper beforer cutting them to shape and glueing them on.

    Cheers
  3. doedskvad Member

    Country:
    Germany
    I'd prefer wire to do arrows. For the head and feathers I'd use plastic sheet or one of the tougher putties.
  4. lopee Active Member

    Country:
    Czech-Republic
    Thank you so much, I'll try it.
  5. Einion Well-Known Member

    It's hard to do realistic (in-scale) arrows in 1/32 scale. But first thing you need to do is get accurate dimensions for the arrows you're making, then choose materials of approximately the right scale and work to the right length - some arrows are much bigger than you might be thinking, some might be smaller.
    • Arrows could have had four fletchings (the feathers), others three. Some were triangular, some roughly rectangular. European arrows for warfare were long and heavy and would have long fletchings as a result - 12cm or more in length. These were tied on as well as being glued in place; you'll probably want to just paint the illusion of the bindings at this scale.
    • Then there is the point: some would have had arrowhead-shaped points but many war arrows would have had what are called bodkin points which were slim and pointy (shaped like a needle) in order to pierce armour, these could be square instead of round and could be very long or shorter and broader.
    • Don't forget the knock either (most modellers do!) which is the notch at the rear of the arrow where the bowstring goes.
    For the fletchings I think one of the best materials is aluminium foil, which you can score to represent the feather structure before you cut it to shape and glue it in place. Superglue is probably the only adhesive useable for attaching them but it's difficult to glue something this small in place, even with sharp tweezers and good eyesight, so if you want for example five arrows I'd plan to make nine or more, because not all of them will turn out as well as you'd like!

    Einion
  6. Jeff Active Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I like to use sewing needles. They come in all kids of sizes. cut the top of the eye off you get a nice knock that way. Then I put on the fletchings. I have used plastic and Kneadatite for this. It all depends on what you are going for. I use Kneadatite for the heads as well. I have also used plastic stock for the heads.
  7. Glen Active Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Hmmm... my arrow making has been limited to three in 54mm. All made with appropriately sized brass rod with thin paper feathers superglued in place. It took less than 30 minutes as I recall, most of it cutting out the feathers and getting them to match (more-or-less).

    Cheers,

    Glen
  8. gorgosaurus Active Member

    Country:
    Denmark
    Sewing needles with the eye cut down...!!!

    Brilliant Jeff, I like it!

    Here´s som of my arrer´s - I´ve got piles. [Tox joke].

    L-R : Swallowtail broadhead, normal type 16, 2 heavy bodkins, light general purpose point, light bodkin.
    [IMG]

    Fletching (3 is most common and not too big - warheads need less drag) and swallowtail.
    [IMG]

    Spike.
  9. vergilius New Member

    Country:
    Belgium
    great idea those needles !!!!
  10. Taiko Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Czech-Republic
    Hi Matrin,
    what are you doing here...nice to see you here... ;) :D :D
    My english isn´t so good, than the answer will be in Czech.

    Používám špendlíky a dubové listy od Plus model. Uštípnu hlavičku, rozříznu dubový list na polovinu. Na jeden konec nalepím tři půlky listů vteřinovým lepidlem. Po zaschnutí jenom listy zastřihnu a napatinuji olejovkama. Je to piplačka, ale stojí to za to....
    Hotové šípy najdeš na modelu "Saracen trophy"...
    Měj se a zatím

    Milan D.

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