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SCULPTING 101 STEP BY STEP

Discussion in 'Sculpting' started by garyjd, Feb 24, 2006.

  1. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Jacket I'll be sculpting a Richmond Depot type ll jacket on this figure as opposed to the type l Jason is wearing. The main difference is that the type ll will not have the piping. Aside from that the construction of the jacket is the same. I have decided to do the jacket with using Aves and A & B putty. The putty will allow me to replicate the raised right portion of the jacket in addition to showing the methods I use when working with putty.

    Attached Files:

  2. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I start by taking a piece of Sculpey and placing it over the area where the opened portion of the jacket is positioned. This piece will be shaped to replicate the shape of this part of the jacket.

    Attached Files:

  3. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    lines are made with my spatula to indicate the position of the large folds on the rght front of the jacket.

    Attached Files:

  4. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Using the photo as a guide I sculpt the folds using an X-acto knife and my spatula.

    Attached Files:

  5. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Here is the completed work. The piece is now plced in the oven at 250 degrees for 5-10 minutes as this piece of Sculpey is only serving as a form in which a sheet of putty will be worked into it.

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  6. MAB Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Italy
    Hey Gary an optimal demonstration
    but to say one issue the Sculpey after drying that type of hardness to have?
    How Magic or A+ B or Milliput White?
    It interests to me to easy know if to be clean or with hard work.

    I would want to try this stucco why I see that easy the masses can be moved.

    MAB :)
  7. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    When there is a need to roll out a sheet of putty I use the following materials

    Putty
    ceramic tile
    small rolling pin or X-acto knife handle (make sure it's clean)
    two pieces of plastic strip stock

    This is a great technique that our own GORDY has used on his own projects with amazing results. Hey, any guy that can build a model rowboat out of sheets of putty does amazing work. A light film of vaseline is put on the tile and both pieces of strip stock are placed on opposite sides of the tile. A ball of putty is placed on the center of the tile and is pressed down onto the tile. The putty is slowly flattened with the rolling pin (lubricate it with vaseline or water). With the ends of the rolling pin resting on the plastic stock the sheet will only be as thick as the width of the plastic.

    The Sculpey form is then given a light coat of vaseline and the semi cured putty sheet placed on the form. After curing the putty is worked into the form and left to finish curing. I then take a fine tip marker and draw the outline of opening of the jacket. The putty in front of the line will be removed and cleaned up.

    Attached Files:

  8. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Maurizio, Thank you. The more you bake Sculpey the harder it gets. I did not want to bake this piece more than 10 minutes.

    The Aves putty (white) only makes up about 20-30% of the total mixture of the two putties. A&B putty can be brittle when rolled into sheets and the Aves putty has a little bit of flexibility to it.~Gary
  9. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    here is a profile of the right side.

    Attached Files:

  10. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Here is the underside of the piece. You can see the Sculpey is already lifting off from the figure (so I thought ;) ).

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  11. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    The A&B sheet easily separated from the fom I sculpted.

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  12. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I now go about cleaning up the piece, especially giving the edges a scale thickness. Before permanently attaching the piece to the figure I'm going to add the interior to this part of the jacket.

    Now it's time for this ROCKET SCIENTIST to remove the Sculpey that makes up the form I made.

    Attached Files:

  13. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I did not give the torso a light film of vaseline as I thought that the Sculpey being put over top of it was not going to be fully baked, and thus would easily come off....WRONG. The Sculpey adhered to the figure more than I thought it would. The bulk of it came off without too much effort. The areas with the deep undercuts were another story. I had to slowly scrape and chip these pieces out.

    Attached Files:

  14. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I managed to get all of the Sculpey off. I finished it off by going over the area with fine steel wool. things don't always go the way you plan and it's good in a way to be able to post stuff that does not go quite right.

    Attached Files:

  15. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Here are some pictures of the figure with the jacket portion held in place with blu tac.

    Attached Files:

  16. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I need to clean up the front of the jacket opening just a bit.

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  17. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I love doing a figure with layers of clothing. It really lends itself well to trying to get a realistic look to your figure.

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  18. garyjd Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    The figure overall.

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  19. John Long Active Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Excellent technique Gary. Very educational. I have often wondered how to do about this type of thing.
  20. slaj Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Malta
    Hey Gary, great stuff. Instead of sculpey I use plasticine for that approach. Only because it's cheaper :lol:


    Stephen Mallia

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