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Completed SBS Hammered Bronze 300 Shield

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by Gellso, May 15, 2011.

  1. Gellso A Fixture

    I got this 120mm sheild from Chippy. Unfortunately my Leonidas bust was 1/9th so couldn't use it. However the base I wanted to use for him was a tad big so I thought I'd do the shield and fix it to the base just as a fancy. I'm just about finished the Leonidas figure and will post with the base to let you see what you think.
    I learned a lot from doing the bronze of the bust I thought I'd share the technique in detail for the bronzing so here goes.

    300 Spartan sheild from film:


    120mm sheild with V shape added with pasticard:


    Mr Surfacer 500 applied with a cotton bud. Mr. Surfacer dries fairly rapidly so you have about 30 secs to apply a patch before the cotton bud beacomes hard and useless. Bits applied can be worked with a cleanbud and more surfacer. Very rarely some fibre of the bud comes off but leave it on the subject as it gives more effect.

    The flatter areas require a rolling technique as shown in pic:


    The more pitted effect can be achieved with a stabbing motion as shown in this pic:


    Final tweaks of Mr. Surfacer applied and then areas selectively sanded to get rid of high spots and to replicate the 300 sheild:


    Worked with a razor saw, needle files and scalpel to creat damage to the shield to replicate sword scores and arrow hits as well as chips in the edge. Cheap grey auto primer applied. The cheap stuff gives more texture that a smooth primer:


    Two thin coats of Vallejo black acrylic:


    Mr. Metal Color gold . This stuff dries fairly quickly so it's best to work in sections and fast. When it dries it can be buffed to a shine:



    Mr. Metal Color gold and Mr. Metal Color Aluminium mixed to give lights and buffed. this picks out the highlights and gives a tonal variation to the large area:


    I forgot to get a picture of the next stage but it is vital you do it. Apply 2 thinish coats of tamiya smoke. You know if it's mixed too thin if it does not adhere to the gold and droplets form. Make sure it goes on well then till the smoke layer is completely dry.
    On to the oils now. The tamiya smoke creates a barrier which prevents the oil paint "soaking" into the gold color and completely subduing it.
    Mix black with a touch of burnt umber or vandyke brown and apply liberally to the subject thus:


    Now take some of your wifes kitchen roll or some cloth asking first in case she gives you grief cos she'll have noticed you've stolen all her cotton buds as well......sorry love. Now start to remove the oil paint. I've tried to wipe more of the top half of the shield to give that light to shadow from top to bottom that some of the better figure painters manage to achieve.
    I have left more paint in the shadows and joins to replicate the shield of the film.
    Two differnt tones. As I'm crap with the camera I chose these two pics as they show different tones just for you to look at but you get the general feel.
    I will go on to feather the shadows with some dilute oil paint and then drybrush more highlights as necessary:
    Hope that's clear enough but I wll answer any questions as best I can.



    Attached Files:

  2. kansas kid Well-Known Member

    Wow, what a neato SBS, and WIP presentation. Thank you for taking the
    time to set it all up and then shoot the photos. I do appreciate it. Very
    nice work. . .

    Ricardo Jayhawker
  3. rej Well-Known Member

    Grant, that is just sublime & very kind of you to share :)

    I just gave you the 5star vote for this thread :) you richly deserve it!!!!!!!

    Ray ;)
  4. Gellso A Fixture

    Thanks Ray,
    You're very welcome, hope it's of some use to you.
    Meehan34 likes this.
  5. gordy Well-Known Member


    Great info here Grant :)

    I'll tag this for getting in the article section
  6. Paul Kernan A Fixture

    Cheers, mate. Appreciate the info AND the effort

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