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WIP Question about "Liquin"

Discussion in 'Just starting...' started by Tony Lee, Nov 11, 2011.

  1. Tony Lee New Member

    I gave up on my first try at figures over a year ago but thought I would give it another go.
    I want to learn both oils and acrylics for 1/35th figures. I bought some Masterbox DAK figures and W/N oils along with some pointers from Giovanni A. jumped in with both feet last week.

    I did the best I could with the cheap brushes I had on hand until my set of series 7s came in today.
    When I picked them up at the art store I also got Liguin for oils and another for Acrylics. When i got home I read the labels and no where on there does it say how much to use,that's what I need to know.

    Oh btw i'm going to do eight DAK figures and these are the first three in progress using acrylic base color and oil top coats.

    Critiques good or bad are most welcome
    Thanks for the help
    Tony lee
    pipetrepid likes this.
  2. redhorse Active Member

    I use liquin some, it's an alkyd medium and will make your oils dry faster. They also tend to end up shinier when you use it. You just mix in enough to get the consistency you want. None if you want opaque and quite a bit if you want a thin glaze.
  3. Tony Lee New Member

    Thanks James
    I kind of thought that but wanted to check first.
    The shorter drying time is a plus but I was after the flow advantage it gives for the finer work.

    Thanks again
    Tony lee
  4. John Long Active Member

    You've got a good start Tony. I don't use liquin much for oils. I have used Grumbacher medium 2 to do fine detail. I generally use the oils as they are. When I use mediums to enhance flow, I'll put out a small puddle and add it to the colors until I get the flow properties I need.
  5. Ron Tamburrini A Fixture

    I find most mediums dry with a gloss finish ,it is better to put the oils on as thin as possible and then get as much back off with dry brushes till you are left with nothing but
    a fine sheen which will dry out nicely, this is on top of an undercoat of the same color off course.
    Try to lay your shadows and lights next to one another and just feather in with a broader dry brush, if you drag them across one another you will end up with a muddy appearance .

    Hope this helps.

  6. Tony Lee New Member

    Thanks John and Ron for your comments.
    The guy on the left has way to much paint on it. The one on the right has less and the guy in the middle even less.
    On him I applied less and spread it out more. I'm not a fan of high contrast so I blend the colors a little more than just on the junction of the highs and lows.

    I've got five more to do and hopefully i'll have sorted out what and how I need to do these little guys.

    Thanks again for the advise
    Tony lee
  7. John Long Active Member

    Tony, left you a PM.
  8. Tony Lee New Member

    I found it John and sent reply,Thanks

    Tony lee
  9. pipetrepid Active Member

    tony, the figure on the right looks good. especially the face( the most important part). don`t give up, if you like doing this, stick with it, it will come.
  10. Tony Lee New Member

    Thanks Bill
    Oh I won't give up but I don't think i'll make a career of it though.:D
    I just wanted to know how to do them so I can show scale for my self propelled armor models.

    I'm doing them all differently and after they dry i'll experiment with filters and washes to see what effect they have on the color of the paint.

    Appreciate the encouragement Bill
    Tony lee

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