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Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by Paulo, May 5, 2017.

  1. Paulo A Fixture

    IMG_20170504_084957.jpg IMG_20170504_083750.jpg IMG_20170504_080045.jpg Hello Painting comrades
    Some time ago I promised to PF member KEITH, one SBS on Metal Non Metal, painting.
    So in order to pay it, I made a study upon it.
    Please consider this a didactic exercise; the objective is that you understand the steps to activate it.
    Scale 75 ref. SCF-003 is the ideal platform to show it, because I do believe MNM goes very well with fantasy figures.
    You may care that I use the wet pallet system for working.

    I have used the colors on the photo, but the references are not so important, brown is brown, and ochre is ochre, no meter watt you call him.
    IMG_20170504_074403.jpg IMG_20170504_075246.jpg

    I start with a brown color for the base, with two passages, I add black on the second passage, mostly in deep places like the eye.


    For the first lights I had Arabic shadow from S-75 actually this is English Uniform similar color, the objective is to give a raw/ochre brownish color
    IMG_20170504_080040.jpg IMG_20170504_080045.jpg

    Continue with the base + brown ochre Vallejo- 856

    IMG_20170504_080452.jpg IMG_20170504_080455.jpg

    Time to add Citadel Yriel yellow to the base.

    Doesn´t look very good I know, but I´m putting contrast to define the volumes, latter I´ll come back to blend the differences

    IMG_20170504_080907.jpg IMG_20170504_080910.jpg
    IMG_20170504_081721.jpg IMG_20170504_081723.jpg

    In order to define volume I start posing the shadows, always with a cold color

    I use purple from Citadel mixed to base color, and later alone

    IMG_20170504_081737.jpg IMG_20170504_082659.jpg IMG_20170504_082702.jpg

    After that I start blending with veils of Arabic shadow and some places brown ochre, next to shadows I use pure purple very diluted


    So, continuing I use S – 75 Mojave white (is a off white) mixed with the last lights (Base + yellow)

    I insist again with purple shadows. I also do some blending between these steps

    When blending colors, use the colors of your pallet very diluted, select a zone to blend, don’t be rush, take your time.

    IMG_20170504_085006.jpg IMG_20170504_085010.jpg IMG_20170504_091427.jpg

    Charge your brush with color, dry the water from your brush in soft paper, in order to stay very few on the brush, in reality is only the pigment (what you really need) and you´ll see that you can control better were you apply it

    Know is time for definition, had some scratches, mostly a highlighted line, and then a black line next to it. Mark also the rivets and other spot lights
    IMG_20170504_091436.jpg IMG_20170504_092550.jpg IMG_20170504_092557.jpg

    So at this point is somewhat difficult to say what to do. Actually I give the last highlights in pure off white and next I retouch everything where it needs, blending and softening transitions.

    Attached Files:

    P GREEN, frank h, franck edet and 3 others like this.
  2. Paulo A Fixture

    Part 2

    I also used the S-75 inktense yellow SC-86, it is a INK very strong also, use it very diluted (please !!) and is good for blending lights, in order to keep the yellow shade, don´t put it on shadows
    Last thing I do his a final veil with Vallejo glossy varnish, heavily diluted in order to give a very light satin look like, but very diluted otherwise it will look plastic!!
    IMG_20170504_141050.jpg IMG_20170504_141053.jpg IMG_20170504_141112.jpg

    IMG_20170504_141120.jpg IMG_20170504_141123.jpg IMG_20170505_101311.jpg

    One last consideration

    Acrylic his acrylic so, they are all mixable, each one have his strong point, scale 75 are extra matt, Vallejo has a very soft pigment, very good for skin, and Andrea are in the middle , Games Workshop are little beat more elastic and strong, good for blending in wet on wet technique.

    metal-and-alchemy-steel-paint-set.jpg IMG_20170504_092815.jpg 2.jpg

    The only Paints I believe are rather superior than the others are the Metal from Scale 75, they really amazing you really have to try them… and then you´ll have my opinion.

    Hope you like this article, and try to do it. If you have questions please tell me, I´ll be glad to answer.

    Paulo Carrelo
  3. Phater Active Member

    Excellent tutorial. Thanks for posting.
    anstontyke likes this.
  4. Honster Active Member

    Great work!
    anstontyke likes this.
  5. Bootneck Well-Known Member

    Hi Paulo.
    Thanks for taking the time to put this excellent SBS together.
    anstontyke likes this.
  6. KuK_Grenadier PlanetFigure Supporter

    Great SBS, thanks a lot.

  7. Viking Bob PlanetFigure Supporter

    You make it look easy, thank you for posting.
  8. franck edet A Fixture

    great SBS thank you very much for publishing it ! (y)

    would love to see one for steel color :whistle:
  9. ATTİLA the HUN Well-Known Member

    IMPRESSİVE tutorial, Paulo. THANKS for sharing.
    GOOD JOB....
  10. John Bowery A Fixture

    Thanks for posting.
  11. Paulo A Fixture

    Thank you too.
    uyes is true that this takes lot of time and pacience, (taking pictures bake the sequency of work) but your words make me fell happy for doing it. I halso took good lessons from this forum and know is time to feeedback.
    Franck steel in nom metal his very time consumming, it needs more passages than the yelow metal, so I can´t promise it... (sorry I have many projects on the table this year) maybe latter, ok
    Actually I like more the True Metal colors because I do mostly storic subjects. And ...

    See you soon...

    very soon
  12. Wayneb A Fixture

    Excellent SBS Paulo. I've been experimenting myself using acrylic for NMM and I do like your result. I will keep this in my file..............Thanks for posting.


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