I have access to a few different brands of artist acrylics can any one recommend a brand? Or does it even madder?

I can get these with out ordering online
Golden
Liqitex (professional grade)
Windsor & Newton Galeria

I know allot of people here love the Jo Sonja but are any of the above comparable? or better yet, any one know of a place in San Diego CA, that sales the JS line?

I all so see people say they like the JS paint because it drys to a matt finish why does this madder? I usually spray a matt finish after my mini is done, is that a bad thing?

I'm asking because hobby paints are expensive and hard for me to consistently get.

One last question, can I use Gesso as a mini primer?

any way thanks.
Pete

You can buy Jo Sonja online:

http://www.cheapjoes.com/cat/7523/

Another really good tube acrylic is Holbein Acryla Gouache:

http://www.cheapjoes.com/art-supplies/24727_holbein-acryla-gouache.asp

Matte finish is important as clothes are mostly matte. Shiny clothes are unusual and look unnatural. The use of a matte spray is not really necessary. It is primarily used by oil painters to get rid of glossy finishes.

I wouldn't use gesso as a primer but get some really fine pigmented primer like Floquil:

http://www.micromark.com/FLOQUIL-FIGURE-PRIMER-3-OZ,8112.html

There are many other good quality primers for figures:

http://www.michtoy.com/michtoy_products_B.php?Types=Paint,%20Glues%20and%20Finishing%20Supplies&Categories=Primers

If money is tight you can also use craft paint from Hobby Lobby like Apple Barrel or Folk Art:

http://www.plaidonline.com/folkart-acrylic-colors-2-oz/38/product.htm

The pigmentation is not as fine as the others or like Vallejo or Reaper but they do dry flat and come in a wide variety of colors. I have used them to good effect and they have a pretty good shelf life.

Artist acrylics usually do not dry completely matte or flat but more of a satin finish. I wouldn't use them for figures. Liquitex has a line of matte colors in tubes. I have used them and they are comparable to Jo Sonja.

http://www.artsupply.com/Liquitex-Basics-Matte_c_930.html

I am still using Folk Art sourced at the local Michaels. Price and access are definite advantages, but have to learn to compensate for the lower grade of product for sure. I now use Testors Dullcote spray on all my finished figures too. Hope this helps.

DG

Brand does matter a great deal with artists' paints, acrylic included.

Of the ones you mention, Golden and Liquitex are roughly equivalent (although users will have their definite favourite of the two believe me). Galeria is a student/studio paint, so a rung or two down the ladder in terms of pigmentation, as well as thinner.

I wouldn't actually recommend either brand overall, although they're fine in quality they vary in consistency and finish, with some colours being very matt and others very glossy, plus a few in between the two extremes. I prefer acrylics that dry to a reasonably uniform sheen.

Can't help on a local supplier but I can highly recommend them. Their reliable matt drying is one of their key advantages, but it's not the only one. List price comparison for Cadmium Red Light for example:
Golden, 59ml - $17.95
Liquitex, 59ml - $17.39
Jo Sonja, 75ml - $8.27

But one of my favourite comparisons is series 1 colours: Golden, $8.30 (for white!) while the JS one is $3.97. Prices from one of the good online suppliers like Dick Blick are significantly lower than full retail but it gives a good basis for comparison.

That said, I wouldn't recommend them (any matt paint actually) for painting fleshtones in particular but also other things you'd like to have a slight sheen or to be fully shiny. It is completely doable to apply a thin coat of gloss medium or Future to add some sheen when necessary though.

It's not a bad thing but if you don't need to rely on a matt overcoat it's one less thing to do, one less thing that can go wrong.

Also, you're familiar I presume with how different it can look when you matt down something fairly glossy? With highlighting and shading this can significantly alter the appearance of the work done; it's helpful to be able to paint where as you're working it's the same finish as you intend it to be at completion, or at least close enough that there's not a dramatic change.

You can, but I wouldn't really recommend it. Auto primer or the equivalent (e.g. Rust-oleum) is smoother and tougher.

Einion