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Lets paint a flat figure with Oils

Discussion in 'Oils' started by Briank, Sep 6, 2023.

  1. Rob A Fixture

    Interesting to watch your approach to the figure. I am surprised to see so many different areas being worked on simultaneously.
    Briank likes this.
  2. Briggsy A Fixture

    Ah good, a lot easier to paint, most of mine were larger still. Though I do like the traditional 30mm ones, just a bit too small for my eyes these days.

    Cheers Simon
    Briank likes this.
  3. megroot A Fixture

    I have some comments.
    You use black for shading the green and highlight it with white. Well I learned never use black or white for shading and highlighting because the colors will look muddy. And so this is what happen. "Always "shade with the complementary color, and you have a great shade without muddy the colors.
    For green you have to shade with red, and for the ochre you have to shade with blue-violet.
    For Highlight on the green you have to use yellow. Don't go to far with the yellow because it end quick into a yellow-green
    For the ochre you can best highlight with Napels yellow.

    Further I good only applaud for your work here, because we dinosaures with oilpaint are outnumberd.

    Briank and Nap like this.
  4. Briank Active Member

    Hi Marc, yes agree complementary colour is the norm but with flats you have to exaggerate, shade has to be deeper and lights brighter, always two steps from the tone you would use on a round figure as the norm, always told to use green to shade red, never worked have to use dark blue to make it work!
    Tecumsea and Rob like this.
  5. Briggsy A Fixture

    OK so just to confuse things further, I used to use both methods in oils and still do in acrylic, complimentary colour first then yo get the real intensity just a touch of Mars Black, or Army Painter Matt Black. It's all down to what works for each painter and is really interesting reading how others do it. Loving the thread.

    Cheers Simon
  6. megroot A Fixture

    REd and Green are the complimentary colors from each other, so it worked both sides. If you want darker shades I prefer a very dark brown instead black.
    but that is my aproche. (I mis the theacher in color theory here on the planet. I thought he used this name "Eilon")
    Nap and Briank like this.
  7. Briank Active Member

    The wheelchair is then blocked in with black, then the frame gets some hi-lights in white just a little and the same with the wheels, a off white to start then on with the white, red arm rest and we are nearly home now IMG_4004.JPG IMG_4009.JPG
    MacCoy, fesak_j and Rob like this.
  8. Rob A Fixture

    That is interesting, does explain why the "with HDR filter" version of my Sabine Vignette looked better to everyone who voted in my little poll than the "true" version. I will need to work out how to add more contrast as I start doing more flats, I thought they were already fairly high contrast.
    Briggsy likes this.
  9. fesak_j Active Member

    Hi, i hope brian will not get mad if i will share an advice in his thread.
    I usually prime with the neutral grey colour(andrea) + pre sketch of lights and shades. During the painting I re prime with the black (andrea) to split items. As you can find on pics uploaded. However it depends of what do you prefer or what do you want to achieve.

    Have a nice painting, j.

    received_984424932091137.jpeg received_489856232419132.jpeg
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  10. fesak_j Active Member


    Lovely work mate :) you have really nice style of painting flat figures
    Briank likes this.
  11. Rob A Fixture

    I assume when you say re prime that would be a basecoat of black? Do you then leave the edge of the black showing to delineate between areas of the figure? like a wargamer would replicate with a "blackline" technique?
  12. Briank Active Member

    last part, spokes and more hi-lights
    Not happy with the old guys left arm so did a bit more work and the lights on the soldier need toning down, a touch here and there and that's it.
    Now leave it for a week or so and look again and sort out the mistakes, this is not show winning but I hope gives you the idea to have a go and don't worry about flats being to hard to paint.
    The last photo shows the colours used so give it a go and you'll be surprise how good your figure looks IMG_4013.JPG IMG_4016.JPG IMG_4015.JPG
    fesak_j, Nap and Rob like this.
  13. Briank Active Member

    Jozef, your have to show how you paint as we all have different ways and your 30mm are a bit special ;)
    fesak_j likes this.
  14. Briggsy A Fixture

    Nicely painted Briank also fesak_j. Sounds like a good idea to get more flats on show. I realise I'm talking myself into a corner as in haven't painted one in about 15 years and my oils are probably all solid in their tubes by now. Will have a think and see what I have and give this a go if others are also willing.

    Cheers Simon
    fesak_j and Briank like this.
  15. Rob A Fixture

    I will certainly be painting more, when I can get hold of them.
  16. Briank Active Member

    If you use acrylics have a go with them, I paint flats with acrylics
    "William Tell's mad sister" in acrylics
    MacCoy, Nap, Scotty and 1 other person like this.
  17. Nap Moderator

    Hi Brian

    A massive THANK YOU for this thread ....really interesting to see and very helpful

    Have you a link to 2D Figurines as well

    Look forward to seeing any rework after leaving it for a week

    Hope we see more flats in the " show us your flats thread "

    Happy benchtime


    Will move to techniques when you are happy
    Briank likes this.
  18. fesak_j Active Member

    I m not familiar with the wargamer technique, however yes I re prime by black (mostly equipment only) to leave the very thin edges to extend the contrast. The main figure remains primed in grey. Eg.: if you will paint the white strap over the red coat, without splitting areas it does not look good imo, especially in 30mm scale :) j.
    Briank and Rob like this.
  19. Rob A Fixture

    Thanks Jozef, that is what I thought you were doing. Wargamers generally do it the other way round, paint and highlight the areas fully then afterwards draw in a blackline between them with a fine brush.
    Briank likes this.

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