This is truly amazing. I can't wait to see how you paint this masterpiece.

Cheers

Huw

Give him a penny whistle mate

It's not as if there's enough going on already is it ?

Looks ab fab before painting.

Have you gone off tassells for a bit now.?

Amazing stuff

Paul.

This is an amazing piece of work. To think it is 54mm - what patience and craftsmanship. I take my hat off to you The skill that some members of this forum have is truly inspirational. Congratulations and thank you for sharing it with us.

Cheers
Chris

Add something ? HOW are you going to paint it? Outstanding modelling. I am looking forward to the end result.

Alan

This is incredible! The amount of detail and skill in all that braiding etc. Can I ask how you manage to work so fine - what tools do you use to create the small wire parts and how do you support the model when fixing small part details onto it. Also what glue as I can't see any trace of adhesive residue on the figure ( when mine get covered with he stuff!) I find these tips are not covered in many books and tutorials and would be really useful for others.
Cheers
Mat

Your work is always inspirational Paul and it is great to see you having a go at a Kettle Drummer-I have been hoping for a long time that Bruno might produce one for the Metal Models Range for us mere mortals to daub some paint on!
Please continue the blog with the painting details it is so helpful to see this continue and thanks for showing details of the fine work you have achieved so far.

Claude

To all and more particularly Mat Lambert who was asking, please find below the detail of hardware I have been using for the making of this model.

Handling
Amati Rotopaint is a fantastic yet very recent acquisition, which allows the handling of heavy pieces (up to mounted 90mm) while being busy with your two hands. It helped me save considerable amount of time while working on the drums. It’s a pity I did not invest earlier in that device which I bought from a Spanish shop for less than €60.

Cutting
X-Acto kife or equivalent.
Manual jigsaw with various blades - to cut large metal parts - always with mineral oil

Drilling
Tamiya twist drill and “no brand” HSS drills 0.30 to 1.1mm in 0.05 and 0.10 increments, and larger sizes to make inserts for rods. I recently bought 0.20 and 0.25mm ones but am not confident with the use in white metals without damages.
Maxicraft drilling machine, used to twist copper wire

Sanding
Sand foam super fine, micro fine; sand paper 160 to 1200. No need to elaborate.

Modelling / carving / sculpting / shaping
Andrea Sculpt two component putty. Easy to use, excellent rendering of details. Excellent compromise between Milliput superfine like putty and Green Stuff
Toothpicks for various uses: small part picking / handling (with a small amount of blue tack or wax at the end), glue application (need to sharpen it with a modelling knife), sculpting / shaping epoxy putty (need to cut it as needed).
Silicon brushes in small sizes
Steel spindles

Gluing
Good old two component epoxy glue
Instant liquid cyanoacrylate Colle 21 glue. Has anaerobic properties i.e. supposed not to dry in open air but only between pieces (or your fingers) in contact. This is theory as in fact dries in open air but after a long time (30mn to 1hr) which allows long modelling sessions.

Soldering
30W soldering iron, which I am not yet familiar with. Surely something you can live without but I used it to fix the stirrup straps to the inner side of the legs, and solder the 2 halves of the pelisse and fix a rod that goes from the inner part of it through the man’s left shoulder.
If you want to solder larger part, 60W or more will be better.

Consumables
Copper wire 0.10 (twisted, for kettledrum fringes), 0.15 (for dolman laces, sabretache and harness buckles)
Tin soldering wire 0.25 (for the pelisse cordon), 0.50 (for the plaited mane)
Lead foil 0.10 (for the kettledrum cloth)

Tin foil 0.15 (for the horse’s belly strap)

That's a very comprehensive list which you've provided. That should be sued to help people new to the hobby and be included in a book. Excellent information Paul.

Cheers

Huw

And now with the primer (Humbrol 147, airbrush)

I believe there is too much space between the two elements and a corner has need of sandpaper

excuse my English.

nice work

Super information Paul.
Now that Roto paint tool looks well handy .
As with everyone else : waiting with great anticipation as to how on earth your are going to paint this as it is all glued up

Ron

Paul.
This is one seriously one great piece of work. Although you have explained I just cant get my head around how you managed it Superb. Just one question though. Does that drummers mum know his got her best tablecloth wrapped around those dustbins
Looking forward to the next stage
Mick

Correct Jai but this is so tiny that after painting you won't see it any longer.

No need to worry too much Ron, I love that motto "if you can see it you can paint it "

Yea ! but some motto's are not always that true I am sure you will manage , but how the hell do you pain under a pelisse like the idea of soldiering the stirrup straps ; always a weak point .

The pelisse is separate, as is the man from the horse.
I have soldered a brass pin inside.

This for me is the exciting stage,

The primer brings everything together so well doesn't it ?

Best wishes for the next part.

Paul.

I'm very much looking forward to seeing you progress the painting as it already appears magnificent.

Cheers

Huw

Alan