Dan, Did you do any progress with the figure?

Rafa

I was in Chicago all week, working and went to MMSI on Saturday, just flew back to Omaha today.

Sorry this is taking so long. I changed the pose - he's now walking quickly with torso and head half-turned. The whole figure is much leaner and a little shorter, although really still somewhat tall at 4.25 inches. The left arm with fist will still be raised in anger. The right arm will hold the rifle. The rifle is complete - I'm not totally please with it, but maybe it will do.

I put the back portion of his tunic on but I'm not sure I like it and may take part of it off and start again. I'm working on smaller sections of the figure as opposed to the whole upper or whole lower halves.

I'm going to try to do a little more week nights this week and have something for you to see next Saturday or Sunday.

All the best,
Dan

Dan, This soounds very well. I agree that the better way for sculpting is to do the work in small sections (more if you are working on big figures).

I am very happy in hearing about your progress and I am very impatient for looking yor next pics.

All the best.

Rafa

Ever had "figure block"? Sorta like writer's block, but with figure sculpting? :lol: Honestly, there were a few days where I just couldn't figure out what to do with this guy!!! Slightly different pose and completely re-sculpted except for the hat and facial modifications.

[I removed the pics of the previous version of the figure to simplify things and save space and edited my initial comments accordingly.]

Here we go. Hope you like it.

Unfortunately I didn't catch that the figure was leaning back away from the camera in the first shot until I re-processed the image with Photoshop. I think you'll still be able to get a good idea of his appearance.




Ahead of me this weekend, I see lots and lots of fine sanding and corrections.

Comments?

All the best,
Dan

Dan. It seems to be much better that the other version. I can't wait to see more!

Only one or two comments. I would try to use some little "lines of putty" for to increase the depth in the wrinkles of the coat. Also I advise that in this scale the buttons of the gaiters usually are little bols of putty or plastic instead of engraved on the gaiters.

Congratulations. The figure looks better!

Rafa

Thanks, Rafa! It's a pleasure to get past a "block" like that and get back to work! I like this pose more than the first one and the whole figure looks more correctly proportioned and realistic, so starting all over was the right thing to do. This time I used Gary's scale and proportions drawing and measured everything before and after sculpting.

About your comments - I was prepared to disagree with you on the buttons. Take a look at all the other illustrations and photos in the Osprey RJ war book - they all seem to show flush and flat buttons or snaps on the gaiters! But then I saw the photo on page 9, which, believe it or not, somehow I missed before! The photo clearly shows buttons on the gaiters and they are raised just a little - boy I wish I'd seen that one earlier! The seams on the back of the coat are also very clear in this photo! Fortunately I don't have to re-do those seams because they're going to be covered by field equipment.

As to the folds and wrinkles. The trousers and coat are meant to be a light denim-like weight material. Normally the folds of lighter material are shallower, but more numerous. [I actually got a chance to talk about sculpting folds and wrinkles with Alan Ball at the MMSI in Chicago! What a nice guy!] I plan to add more to the coat with small files and sanding and to smooth some of the wrinkles in the trousers by sanding. This will be done at the same time I clean up the lines and fabric edges. The trousers in the photo on page 9 look like they may be of a different, heavier material. See the deeper folds? I think in that photo the trousers may be the heavily faded blue winter weight wool uniform. Just guessing, but the photo at the bottom of page 42 shows they did mix the uniforms sometimes.

After that, the engineer field equipment is the next step and finally the rifle. I used another rifle to convert it to an Ariska, but it just doesn't look right, so I've discarded it. I have another version of a French Lebel that I'm going to try to convert to an Ariska. Lots more to do! Back to work!

All the best,
Dan

Dan. I think you are following the correct way. I agree with you that the main changes must be in the coat. Good luck!

Rafa

Dan, I think it is somewhat improved but it has some new problems. I do not want to discourage you in the least and all of this is great practice but if you really want to improve then I am afraid criticism is the only way to get there.

There are three (at least) aspects of a figure that need to be considered - the anatomy, the pose and the clothing.

The anatomy seems off in a couple of places. The waist is too high and pinched and looking at the frontal picture there is something off about the knees. It could be because of the waist being too high but I would have to measure it with a pair of dividers to see exactly what is off.

There is a hump in the lower back that is not correct. You can see from the side view. One of the problems with sculpting is to represent accurate clothing while not destroying the integrity of the anatomy. In this case it is ambiguous as to what is causing that hump - the anatomy or the clothes.

The clothing folds really need to be a bit more convincing. I strongly suggest collecting as many photographs as possible to use as reference. Even if they are not of the specific figure you can gain a lot of reference from pictures of other subjects. Clothing folds are like waves - they follow the laws of physics and are not arbitrary. Also if done well they will enhance the pose by accentuating certain lines of movement while not violating the anatomy. I understand the figure has a certain action to the pose but I do not believe the bottoms of the tunic would flair out at all unless the chap was in a hurricane. Even the flap in the back of the cap would not flair out but pretty much hang straight down but for the sake of dramatics you could probably leave it.

The gaitors are improved over what you had originally but they still need better definition and are still a tad chunky. Gaitors need to be very taut otherwise there is no point in wearing them. I agree that the gaitor buttons need to be applied as separate pieces instead of impressed into the putty.

I will guess but I think you are trying to do a lot of the sculpting from memory. In other words I think you are not referencing anything but sculpting based on your memory of what clothing should look like. I would suggest that as you are acquiring your skills you use as much reference material as possible and sculpt exactly what you see until you build up enough repertoire to do the clothing on the fly.

Please do not misunderstand my comments as I believe it is through practice and good observation that we all improve. I make enough mistakes with my own stuff and it is through the keen observation of others that I can see where they are.

Bob - Many thanks for your critique! I agree completely that the only way to learn is to do something and then ask for helpful critique. I really appreciate your comments.

I saw the hump in the lower back when I enlarged the photos and I planned to smooth that out with sanding. The folds and wrinkles I plan to improve during the same process. And add the buttons on the gaiters and tighten them some. Also reduce the clumpiness of the front of the knees. There is too much "gathered material" in the front of the knees. I wanted to be sure to show the knees anatomically, but I guess I over did it. Correctable.

As to the general proportions and anatomy. I carefully followed the proportions chart Gary provided in Sculpting 101 and measured figure waist to neck, waist to knee, waist to end of leg, etc. They're pretty close. The waist may be a little narrow, but I'm going to add a belt and some field equipment and that may improve things. The first photo has the figure leaning away from the viewer a bit - that may be confusing things.

The bottom of the coat and the cap sun cover flairing were added for dramatics, but I over did it. I'm going to cut off the front of the coat that is flapping and re-do it, but I think I'll leave the back of the coat and sun cover. Artistic license with a learner's permit.

Hadn't thought of it before, but sometimes I am going from memory when sculpting folds and consequently making the mistakes you pointed out. At least sometimes that's what is causing them. Some of it is just inexperienced hands. Practice, practice, practice. Back to work!

All the best,
Dan

That's a good attitude. I am sure you will learn a great deal from this piece.

Dan, I really cannot add to what Bob has already said, it's a very honest and thorough critique. As I said in my slow moving 120mm SBS, the armature is the MOST important part of the figure. It's the foundation on which everything else is built. A bad foundation = a bad figure. I'll look again and comment later.~Gary

Thanks, Gary and Bob! You guys and others at PF have helped immensely! And I hope to continue to learn.

I've shaved off the back humps - there were actually 2. Flattened the back a lot to allow for the field equipment. Added some creases.

Neither the cap flap nor the coat flappie bits will work. When I started measuring the field equipment and determining where it will fit, the bag and canteen would cover up one side of the back and side of the coat and ammo pouches and the holder for the pick handle will mostly cover the other side. The cap flap will nearly lay on top of the bedroll. So - All the flappies are gone and I've re-done the coat bottom and removed the cap flap.

Back to work!

I'll be posting some photos of Glenn Hamilton's painting of General Skoboleff today. A couple of chores to do and then I'll get them taken and up.

All the best,
Dan

Hey Dan, you are trying so hard here, and I know you're real fond of this subject too. The advice that you're getting is great, especially the bit about anatomy, I just wish I was as accurate as gary in this department, no matter how much I try, and measure etc...I always end up a little off...sometimes more than a little.
As for the clothing, well, in the past I have found myself gathering all manner of relevant info and just before I start to sculpt, all this info got maybe a cursory glance, and off I would go with the putty, sculpting what I thought it looked like.....now I make sure I keep all the pictures and clothing around me while I sculpt, and I look at it for reference all the time as I'm working...sounds a bit messy and crazy, well maybe it is, with pieces of clothing, twisted cloth and pics and books everywhere...but it helps a lot.
To help with the uniform...how about handling the parts of the garments in sections, using maybe the seams in the clothing as natural dividing lines....this will take some of the pressure off you regarding cure-time and may help you concentrate locally on the detailed folds and creases of each in turn...so you do just the front left side of the jacket, for example....cure it..then move on to the right side....etc...etc.

I'm no expert Dan...and I make my fair share of mistakes...you're far from alone in the struggle to get these little guys to look how you want 'em....

All the best......Roy.

Thanks Roy, helpful critique is not in the least discouraging to me. Nor does it persuade me that I should reconsider and take up golf. :lol: Me on a golf course - now there IS a funny thought! Badminton?....Naw! I'll just keep thrashing the putty!

All the best,
Dan

Dan, I admire your attitude in staying the course. Keep at it. We ALL experience the same difficulties when sculpting.~Gary

To the extent possible, I've followed-up on Bob's recommendations and made corrections. I've also added most of the field equipment. Still need to add the front 2 ammo pouches, pick handle and associated straps and holder, the rifle, and the cap flap. And lots of clean-up sanding and detailing, fixing, etc.

After Roy prompted me to read the web site rules about copyright issues, I added the illustration I'm working from and another of the sapper field equipment, pack, pick, etc. Both illustrations are from Osprey MAA414, The Russo-Japanese War 1904-1905, and are the work of Andrei Karachtchouk.








All the best,
Dan

Dan. Thanks, the plates are very usefull for evaluating the results.
I can see some improvements yet. Good luck!

Rafa

Dan, much improved. I still see problems but I think at this point you have learned a great deal from this project and I think it is important to press ahead and finish it.

Thanks for sharing this.

Dan, I agree with Bob. My suggestion is to put in more time constructing the armatur/ basic anatomy before moving onto the clothing and equipment. Thanks for the E-mail & photos.~Gary

Dan, since you are working with an illustration why not scale it to 120mm print it out and use it as reference for making the armature, setting the pose and also checking the measurements of the equipment. This would take a lot of the guesswork out and ensure the proportions are correct.