Hello everyone,
Ok lets get down to business. For as long as I have been modeling,I have always used cell-u-clay and I have posted some questions about the pros and cons of cell-u-clay.I got a lot of responses on the subject and I thank you all for the information given.
Now I have another problem with this cell-u-clay stuff! I am getting ready to go to a show in a couple of weeks so I figured I would pull out the models that I wanted to show. All was well until I pulled out my vignette of a IDF Markava and what I saw shocked me on what happened.The cell-u-clay had a white chalky look and texture to it and well as,all on the tank tracks and underneath it was this fussy stuff that looked like something you would find on an old orange!
So now I will have to tear apart the entire vignette and start the whole groundwork process over again! Not a happy camper right now!
So my question to all of you is this,what happened!
How can I fix this disaster of a vignette?
Is there a better way to make realistic groundwork without using cell-u-clay?
Thank you.
Chris

Hi Chris,

I have never used cell- u-clay so I can't help with the problem.

I am by no way experienced in doing groundwork, so this may not be useful. I use PVA glue, and then add the dirt, grass etc to it. If I need to sculpt anything I did use Green Stuff to do some paving stones, and have just purchased Magi-Sculpt but have yet to try it. How they would go for tank tracks I don't know.

Cheers
Chris

Chris, I haven't done a lot of groundwork over the years, but the ones I have done, I used a product called Das Clay modelling clay.

I was put onto this by a modelling friend of mine, and its good stuff to use and easy.Its been a while since I have used it, but from memory it was no problem at all, no mixing anything, just put it down how you want to, use water to smooth it wherever you need to, prime then paint.



Hope this helps,
Jeff.

I've been using Elmer's Woody Putty over foam cores carved roughly to the contours I want. It's a product for carpenters and wood-workers, for filling nail holes and other holes or dings, scratches, etc, in a piece of wood. I like that it can be thinned with water to different consistencies, and can be used for different effects. For example, I used it in the same diorama to make a cement floor inside a building, a stucco coating on the outside, and a patch of sandy ground in front of it. You can tint it, or paint it when it sets, and add solid bits into it, like model railroad ballast or real gravel, for that kind of texture.

I like Jeff's suggestion as well. You can find DAS products at the chain craft stores like Michael's and AC Moore, too, so it's relatively easily available.

I hope that helps, prosit!
Brad

I also use some kind of self harden clay. I buy it at the "Action". A very cheap store. Nice stuff, for cheap prices.
It works great.

Marc

To answer your question about what happened, you did not allow the Celluclay to dry completely (it was obviously applied thickly) before proceeding to work over it with paint, glue or other sealants, and mold developed. It MUST be bone dry throughout before covering and storing.