I just started the 54mm Elite "Spanish Monk, 1230" and noted (with the help of my new Optivisors!) that there is a nasty mold seam running from the top of the head to the hem of the tunic on both sides of the figure. One the last figure I worked on, I tried sanding down this seam with some 820 sand paper, but I really had to work it--and some spots were just too difficult to get into without messing up other detail.
So this time I tried the old plastic model trick of mixing up some Squadron Green Putty with some liquid cement and tried to smooth out the area. It worked in a couple areas okay, but on one side the seam is a little higher & I'm not sure I want to keep building up layers of putty.
Any suggestions from you guys on how you attack these pesky seams on a metal figure would be appreciated!
--linda

With seams like you described Linda, I usually use my x-acto knofe and slowly cut the seam down, sometimes just using the tip of the knife. Some are real hard to get I know, but usually the knife will do it. Just take your time.

Hi Figureteer.

Seems (pardon the pun) to me that you could use some coarser sandpaper.
I usually use wet and dry sandpaper, grit 400.
Fold it once for certain areas, fold it twice for other areas. Wrap it like a cone or you may wrap it around a toothpice, match etc. Even carve a match or a toothpick to the right shape and wrap it around perhaps even glue it with superglue.

Scraping of the seam as Guy suggest is also a nice way but realle dulls them blades fast. Fine steel wool is another option, used with some water and dishing agent.

Try to avoid files as they tend to overdo the job, damaging the figure below the mold line.

Hope this helps.

Linda,

On white metal figures, I generally scrape the seams down with an exacto. The key is to scrape, not cut. I hold the blade almost perpendicular to the figure, angled slightly away from the direction of the scraping. It's easy to gouge if you try to use a carving action. I use a #11 and a small curved blade (sorry, I don't have the number for that one). I use fingernail polishing sticks with 3 different grits from sanding to buffing to smooth the scraped lines. I use steel wool to smooth out areas that are harder to get to.

HTH,
Barry

Linda,

I second all the above, and if it is really a nasty seam, perhaps you could use some of that aves apoxie sculp which was suggested here on Pf a while ago - it works a treat when you want to fill small cavities in resin figures and if you want to fill seams in difficult-to-reach places. Just use small quantities and blend it into the surrounding areas, and when dry you can give it a last gentle sanding if necessary.

HTH,

Johan

Hello Linda,

My method would be to scrape off the seam with an X-acto with a curved blade (see pic).

Run the curved portion of the blade on the ridge so that you won't 'flatten' the seam or remove surrounding details. You can also do it with a round or semi-round fine file which you can also use to restore the original curvature.

I'd use putty only as a last resort (risks of flaking off, crumbling,...).

HTH.

Q.

I agree with all the above, especially dragging the #11 blade over the seam, but I also use another method that involves my trusty Dremmel tool.

I attach the wire brush and "polish" away the seam line. The wire bursh is very forgiving - as opposed to some of the other attachments, so as long as you don't press down too hard it's easy to bring that ridge right down to the surface level you desire. This works very well on seams in large areas, but not so well in small, cramped areas. There, you have to use the round file or #11.

Happy Painting!

Not to contradict Pat, but be sure to use caution if you use a new wire brush attachment. Using a new one will risk ruining some figure detail regardless of pressure. I have had good luck using an older wire brush attachment. One where the bristles are bent over like wheat in high wind will work well and won't be as prone to grinding away any detail.