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WIP "Get Out" Bust

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by harto, Jan 24, 2015.

  1. harto Active Member

    Hi All, Just received this great 1/9th scale Terminator Bust by Sergey Alekhno of ASR Sculpture.

    Having seen the boxtop images with a photoshopped lit red eye I wanted to see if I could light the bust for real:

    First up is to find a really small LED. I found a Japanese Company (HIQParts) which makes lighting accessories and they have the smallest LED's I have seen. They are not cheap but they provide a range of plug and play lighting stuff.

    I drilled out the center of the eye using a number 52 drill bit. You need to drill a fair way in until you are about half way back into the head. I used a pin vice and drilled this bit by hand keeping the drill square on the eye as I drilled back. Next with a larger diameter drill bit, I drilled upwards from the bottom of the neck until the two drill holes intersect. You can widen the second hole with a router bit to help you find the overlap with the eye drill hole. You now have a route for wiring to run through the eye and down the neck and can also drill through the torso to take wiring down into the base. You will need to remove the end connector from the red LED in order to feed the wires through the holes but it is easily reattached, just remember to mark which of the two tiny wires is the positive before you cut them.

    The LED fit perfectly into the eye hole after I had carefully bent the connecting wires at a right angle to the LED. I was also able to press fit a clear lens over the LED into the eye hole from another Japanese option set (Wave Eyes 3) the 1.8mm lens is a perfect fit. I'll probably paint this lens clear red when I get around to painting and assembling the bust.

    You'll see from the final pictures that I also used HIQParts' battery box and switch (the LED runs off a standard 3 volt watch/calculator battery) and also their potentiometer which allows you to adjust the brightness of the LED (which is good as I found the LED a bit too bright initially).

    Hope people find this useful, especially if like me you are a little bit scared of playing with electronics. IMG_1764.jpg IMG_1765.JPG IMG_1768.JPG IMG_1769.JPG IMG_1771.JPG
  2. samson Well-Known Member

    Looks very cool interesting subject . I'll keep a eye on this to see how it comes out
    harto, Rich Sculpts and DEL like this.
  3. DEL A Fixture


    Wings5797, harto, Tonton and 2 others like this.
  4. Chris Mortimer Active Member

    Amazing mate. Always wanted to light something up but am terrified of electronics.
  5. harto Active Member

    These parts are honestly the simplest lighting solution I have seen. Everything is pre-wired, pre-soldered and color coded, just plug in and go, no need to calculate resistor values or figure out your own wiring diagram. This is what I'd recommend as one of the easiest introductions for anyone wanting to have a first go at lighting.
  6. Ron Tamburrini A Fixture

    Will be interesting to see when painted and how you intend to hide the workings .(y)

  7. harto Active Member

    Took me a while to get around to finishing this but here is the completed bust.For the base I used a stone effect toothbrush holder that I picked up at a discount store. It had the advantage of being hollow and having a nice "stone" effect. I made a small shelf inside to hold the components then drilled a hole in the back for the switch and puttied this in.


    I'm pleased with how this turned out. My camera struggles a bit with the light in the eye but you get the general idea

    IMG_3641.jpg IMG_3642.jpg IMG_3643.jpg IMG_3644.jpg
    arj, JGREEN and Eludia like this.
  8. JGREEN A Fixture

    harto likes this.
  9. arj A Fixture

    A dramatic piece of 'plastic' surgery, followed by a very impressive bit of painting.
    That's quite a stunner.

    harto likes this.
  10. harto Active Member

    Thanks both for the comments, in case anyone is interested; for the blood, I used Tamiya clear red enamel paint as a base, I use the enamel rather than the acrylic because I can then add some oil paint to it to adjust the color and opacity but it still dries nice and gloss. Alzarin Crimson is a good one to add as it darkens the blood realistically. I tend to do two or three coats, blending the first one at the edges and then adding new runs over the top to build up depth. Cheers

  11. Stephan Well-Known Member


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