As the title says, it's been a while since I used oils on a figure, I'm working on a couple of 1/16th crew men for a Stug, there's a thread that I've started for it elsewhere on this site.
I've based coated with Tamiya and now I'm using the oils, I want to put a matt varnish on and then give them a good dose of weathering to make them really dusty.
I'm using Abteilung 502 oils in thin glazes with plenty of matt effect thinners, my question here is: how long should I leave the figures to dry off before I use a laquer?
I don't know if the satin shine that's present now will dull as I'm new to using this brand.
I know, it's not an easy question to answer but any advise is good.
Thanks in advance,
David

Hello please take this adevice with a grain of salt . I am planning to start to use oils later in the year but they will be w and n from everything I have been told oil paint may be glossy until dry while can take a good amount of time depending on the color some people use a so called drying box to help them dry sooner which is just a wooden box with a bulb in it to help drying time not sure if this info helps or not

Why don't you guys just slap some paint on something and then ask your questions. Same ole same ole.

In theory, oil paint (depending on the thickness) will take months to dry completely. That's why we usually wait months before varnishing oil paintings.

I've never heard about a drying box before, it sounds like it could help, I guess you would have to get the bulb brightness and the size of the box just right to avoid cooking the model. Too much heat on resin might make things warp or droop.
I guess being patient and waiting a while is the key.
Thanks for the tip though.

Only thing with speeding up oil paint drying time is it can cause them to crack over time. Especially if layers underneath haven't dried before you paint over them.

If you're working in thin glazes you're likely okay to paint over 24 hours after each layer. It's also why many canvas painters work with the paint as paint most of the time rather than glazes. They can work and adjust their colours during the session rather than waiting.

Yeah, you should be checking out Wayne's massive portfolio on his work bench. . . Oh there's nothing there.
Steve

David. I've only ever used oil paints and after 30 odd years have yet to figure out their behaviour.
So many factors come into play particularly relating to drying time. Even the same brand, colour and indeed out of the same tube can perform differently. Factors include ambient temperature, type of undercoat (acrylic or enamel) and whether you use an artificial source of heat.
I've started using Abteilung flesh sets recently and initially didn't like them mainly because I found them a bit 'loose' but as I've got used to them I'm a convert.
I see you've fallen victim to the irritant who often comments without reading posts. Clearly you've painted the figures already so simply touch the surface and if it feels dry then go for it, but do it in one pass. I find AK Ultra matte has a consistency that works well on figures should you need to kill sheen.
Cheers
Derek

As a suggestion that many overlook...many houses have a natural 'drying box' built in...it's commonly known in the UK as an 'airing' cupboard...usually housing an immersion heater /hot water tank

Ron

Thanks for all of your suggestions and advice, I may well go ahead soon and bite the bullet by giving them a matt varnishing.
I have decals that I want to try for some of the badges and lapels, the problem with them (I have decals from both Peddinghaus and Tamiya) is that the sculpts aren't always a perfect fit for them.
Once I make some decent progress I will add photos to my work in progress thread 'Far From Home'

Don't forget that many in the UK now have a more economical combi boiler.

Good news, I have been brave and given them a coat of matt varnish!
If you want to see the results take a look at my WIP:

Stug III- Far From Home

https://www.planetfigure.com/posts/1281873/