Favorite paint stripper.

[GARD9]

Hello All,
I have a white metal casting that will not take primer.
I have cleaned it well with dish soap and let it dry for two days
yet the primer (Citadel,white) beads up like water off a ducks back
in several spots. It is just this one casting in particular that is having the problem.
I primed three castings at the same time and the other two are fine.
I need to strip this piece and start over (I guess?).
What is a good paint stripper for use on primer (lacquer?) like Citadel brand?
Thanks,
G9

 

[mcsneed17]

try using pine sol mixed with water that will help with metal figures only and then put the solution in a glass jar with a cover and leave alone for about a week then use a brush to scrub the figure then rinse off the figure with hot water. let the figure air dry.

 

[KeithP]

I have recently discovered the joys of using brake fluid for a stripper. Leave sit for a day and scrub gently with a toothbrush.

Also, oven cleaner works good. You can put in a plastic zip lock back to contain the fumes. Spray on and close the bag. Come back in a day and wash off the oven cleaner.

For both of these, I will clean off with soap (Dawn) and water.

I gave up on using thinner to clean figures when I found these two methods.

Keith

 

[bwildfong]

Well, her name was Laverne .... oh, you said PAINT stripper !

Cheers,

Brian

 

[megroot]

I use an ovencleaner called Mr Muscle.

I must use it several times before i got the figure right, so i am very experienced with it :lol: :lol:
Great stuff.

Marc

 

[GARD9]

Thanks guys.
I'll give one of these methods a try this weekend.
As much as I would like to try Laverne, I think my wife
would object. I'll see if she has any oven cleaner instead.
Merry Christmas to all.

G9

 

[Jim Patrick]

WOW! These are some really original ways to strip paint off a figure. Being as how I paint with acrylics, I just use rubbing alcohol and water. Use a soft old toothbrush under running water after it has sat for a while. I guess I'm just way behind the times! :lol:

Jim Patrick

 

[PJ Deluhery]

Easy Off Oven cleaner- No Fumes works great for me. Spray it on, let is sit for an hour, and wipe off. Use a toothbrsh for the hard to get at places. Then apply a good amount of dish washing liquid to clean it all and rince. Let dry thoroughly.

FWIW, I have enoucntered some resin figures that are defective - the resin mix is incorrect. The real bad ones "bleed", but the less damaged ones do not take paint. Hopefully, this is not your problem.

As a last resort, mix Elmer's white glue with water - about 50/50 or whatever ratio you need to get it about the consistency of paint, then brush this on and let dry thoroughly. This will seal the resin and give you a surface with some "tooth" to paint on.

Good luck!

 

[mertenspeter]

I to have given up on the Cellulose Thinner ever sind i start using plain old "Brown Soap" (the gelly like one) just put a lot of soap on it with your hands, put it in a plastick bag wrap it close around the piece let rest for a couple of days (depending on how long the paint has beeing on the piece)
Than rince it of unther the tap using warm water and a good hard brush, repeat it if not al the paint has come of, this is for me the most save and healfty way to remove paint.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year..!
Peter

 

[GARD9]

Hello All,
I just thought you would like to know that I found my new favorite paint stripper.
By accident, no less! I was sanding some Testors Red putty that I had used to
fill some pitting in a white metal casting that was already primed. I used some
Tenax 7R on the putty to gloss it up after the finest grit sanding was done.
Low and behold, (read this "Duh") every bit of primer that the Tenax touched
cracked, curled up, and fell off. Tenax is a plastic weld type glue for models that is
(as I have found) also a great paint stripper on white metal castings.
Now, on with re-priming and painting.
G9

 

[Einion]

I use oven cleaner or a strong solvent usually to strip, depending on whether I'm doing an area or the whole of a figure.

Originally posted by GARD9@Feb 1 2006, 10:11 PM
I used some Tenax 7R on the putty to gloss it up after the finest grit sanding was done.
Low and behold, (read this "Duh") every bit of primer that the Tenax touched cracked, curled up, and fell off.

Tenax is a very strong organic solvent (perhaps MEK or a halogenated hydrocarbon) so this is no surprise In case you don't already do so please ensure good venilation using something like this.

Did you manage to sort out the beading on the casting John? This may be small areas with mould-release agent on them, which just washing with warm water and dishwashing liquid sometimes won't shift.

Einion

 

[Kisifer]

Personally I have found a paint stripper that works like a gem. I went to my local paint shop and ask for a paint stripper. He gave me a tin can with a jelly stuff in it. I tried on a very old figure and the miracle happened. The paint was removed like dust. I let it for 5 minutes and then I brush it under warm water. There was nothing left at all on the figure, (note that figure was painted 8 years ago). It also soften the glue so be careful there.

Xenofon

 

[RobH]

Me and Megroot the same. Mr Muscle oven cleaner. Only ever stripped one figure, one that I started, ohhhhhhhh, maybe 23 years ago. Worked a treat with the aid of an old toothbrush

But right now I'm stripping paint from my bathroom.......... :angry:

(well, obviously I'm avoiding doing that by being here! :lol: )

 

[EasyOff]

I use the Easy Off oven cleaner. I've tested both unscented and original and my personal preference would be the original.

A couple things you want to be careful of is breathing in the fumes when you spray it. The chemical will also burn your fingers if they're as soft as mine are. Read the directions and safety labels. I place my figure in a plastic container. The type that I use is the very container that I get my Won Ton Soup from the Oriental restaurant. As a precaution, I use a magic marker and write NOT FOR FOOD STORAGE on the container to reduce the risk of the container ever being used again for food.

Pat has it down right, using a tooth brush for the harder to get areas. Also, be carefull at this stage as to not getting the splatter from the toothbrush into your eyes or any woodwork, kitchen sponge etc. Seriously, you want to be carefull.

The results are simple to achieve and very rewarding. Be carefull while using the tooth brush that you don't loose a small part like a sword etc down the drain. Wash the container out and you can use it again.

The key here is to make sure that you use a container that won't allow the oven cleaner to penetrate through and ruin what ever you sat the container on. I personally use the concrete floor in my basement.

Enjoy yourself, be carefull. Be cautious spraying this chemical around your pets as well. Their noses are so much more sensitive and it will really burn them.

EasyOff

 

[Einion]

I did a search for the MSDS for Tenax 7R, it's made from methylene chloride (CAS 75092) so do take care using it anyone

Einion

 

[GARD9]

Originally posted by Einion@Feb 2 2006, 06:53 AM


Did you manage to sort out the beading on the casting John?

Einion

Hello Einion,
Yes, I discovered that the voids were caused by these pits (pox) in the metal.
There was a surface tension effect, kind of like a meniscus. These pits were tiny
and hard to see with the naked eye until primed. Then, they really showed up.
I filled the pits and re-primed. No more voids.

Methylene Chloride? huh? That's paint stripper isn't it? Duh..... :lol:
10-4 on the ventilation. I guess it never goes without saying. Safety First.
Thanks.
G9

 

[garyjd]

GOO GONE for metal, and oven cleaner for resin.~Gary

 

[btavis]

I use oven cleaner fo everything resin or metal without problems. I soak them overnight and the paint just falls off. You may have to do some clean up because Floquil primer can be stubborn in small recesses. I use a toothbrush to do final cleaning.

 

[Roc]

I also use oven cleaner, works well for me.

Cheers
Roc.