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best obscure tips

Discussion in 'General Figure Talk' started by Pete_H, May 13, 2004.

  1. Pete_H New Member

    Well Gray, you're not the only one who uses the "JB Weld" technique ;) The only thing is that you'd better get to it fast, otherwise you're in for some serious cutting and carving of excess JB Weld.

    One of mine - actually, it was given to me by Bill "the Arizona Connection" Dunkle - is how to transport miniatures to shows. Simply velcro them into a box. Yes, you read right: "velcro." Placing a 1/2" square of the fuzzy side on each corner with the corresponding coarse side inside the base of a box will secure that sucker quite well. Removal is extremely easy ("nooooooooooo, really?" :) ) and you can use the box as a riser. I typically pack each miniature in its own box just in case a piece comes off (won't damage the other figures); I've tried placing 3 54's in one single box without any problems. These are then carried in a hard-surface carry-on suitcase (I use a solid plastic one because I will undoubtedly get bumped into by some careless bozo on a cellphone running through the airport).

    I'm at work right now, but I'm sure I'll think of others to share here later.
  2. Uruk-Hai PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    Sweden
    Okelidokelido.......Ill bite.

    To tell you the truth, I really hate cleaning stuff.
    Therefore I use ordinary plastic pallettes from an art store. Costs usually a buck a piece. However as I dont want to clean them or throw them away I cover them with household aluminium foil. Instead of cleaning the pallettes I just put on new foil and throw the old ones away.

    [IMG]

    Took the picture just a few minutes ago. ;)
  3. Lou Masses Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I think I may have posted this somewhere else on here before but here goes-

    When a figure is almost done- all major painting completed. Go to the highest areas of the figure (Shoulders, top of headgear, etc) with a very thinned down extremely light mix of the color on that part. For example, the uppermost folds on a sleeve painted in red should get a very light, very small brushing of light scarlet. You don't really have to blend it in because the idea is to do a very small area.

    This makes the figure "pop" alot more when being viewed.
  4. Pete_H New Member

    Lou,
    Thanks for the high-highlight tip, amigo! Its much appreciated. I use the aluminum foil technique as well, but on my oil palette (nothing more than an 8" x 10" piece of firm cardboard). All I do is scrape off the dried up acrylics off of the palette with my fingernail and its ready for the next drop of paint (of course, making fure that all the dried-up acrylic is off).
  5. Luis R. Active Member

    Country:
    Spain
    Holding figures while painting can be a problem. I use a wood block that i have previously drilled. The idea is to have one of its surfaces full of holes. Each time I start a figure, I drill it's feet and glue a piece of paperclip wire into them. Then i plug the figure into the wooden block. I'll always find a pair of holes that fit the wire pieces in the figure. You have to be careful to always use the same diameter drill and wire, of course.
  6. Jim Hockett Member

    Crochet hooks. Find your way back to the needlework section of a craft store and check out the small steel crochet hooks. They work well for cleaning up seam lines down in the folds on metal figures. (they can often just be burnished away) Also useful for sculpting, and available in many sizes.

    Jim
  7. Patrick Kirk New Member

    Lou,
    Great tip brother...I'll definately give it a go along with the gold we talked about...am just about finished with the flat and will start a LaSalle this weekend; timing is great for this thread!
    All the best

    Patrick
  8. Anders Heintz Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    For the wire armatures and small pins when pinning parts together, go to the flower section at Wal Mart or simlar place, look for the green wires used for floral arrangements, they come in a few different diameters and are very cheap. I think I paid 99¢ for a package that will last for atleast a couple of years. These are pretty soft and perfect for wire armatures.
  9. Uruk-Hai PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    Sweden
    Over my workarea I use a piece of glas to protect the desk and for easier clean up.
    This is leftovers from a shelf. IKEA of course.

    [IMG]

    A closer look upon what kind of mess that can show up on any workbench.

    [IMG]

    Anything can easily be removed be scraping with a razor-tool. Or some windowcleaner.

    [IMG]
  10. JohnLea New Member

    Add white paper under the glass and it makes colours stand out and things easier to see, at least to old eyes.
  11. thegoodsgt Active Member

    Country:
    United-States
    For every shadow, there's a highlight (and vice versa).

    That from Roland Laffert, which I think he received from someone else.
  12. Lepman New Member

    This is great thread. A lot of these hints and tips really useful. Perhaps Gordy could consider a DG where we could all pass along little hints and suggestions like these. Sure would be a help to both beginners and "old hands" alike.
  13. turcao New Member

    Hi all,

    If you need a very thin, flexible and resistent wire for a figure or an tank antenna, try "one-way acupunture needles" ( they are sold in specific stores, a hundred of them is very cheap ). There are various diameters.

    regards,

    Arthur from brasil
  14. pkess Member

    I have used JB Kwik to assemble all of my figures for years. Got the tip from Terry Worster, years ago.
    For palettes, I use a 5x7 index card stuck inside Ziploc freezer bags. When I cover the bag with paint , I fold it over. This way, if I need to touch something u, I always have a spot of the original mix that is still wet and usable. Some painters put it in the freezer to keep the paints fresh.
  15. Guy A Fixture

    Country:
    United-States
    Being an "old timer" in the hobby I have come up with several unique items that help in the painting. First of all I use a former computor monitor screen platform to elevate the work closer to the eyes, and it also provides a hand rest while painting detail. Here is a pic of the platform pushed back away from me.

    [IMG]

    Here is a pic of the platform pulled out for use. The platform can be mounted from the front of the desk (as you see it) or from either side. It also has a revolving top where you can turn the platform in any angle.

    [IMG]

    Another item that I find very usefull for painting smaller parts is the 2X4 drilled with 1/2 inch holes for dowel rods to support arms, backpacks, etc.

    [IMG]

    This is a smalled version of the above using tooth picks with small parts super glued to the end .

    [IMG]


    hope this helps and gives others even more ideas
  16. KeithP Active Member

    Country:
    United-States
    The computer table is a great idea. That'll save me from scrunging down while painting. As there are several orphan computer tables at work, I am sure I can snag one.

    I have started to use the dowels. My kids use disposable sponge brushes at school. I just take those sponge tops off and use the dowel.

    Keith
  17. Roc Active Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Hey Guy, thanks for the tips.
    those are some pretty cool tips, I' have to try them, might make my painting a little easier.

    Roc. :)
  18. Guy A Fixture

    Country:
    United-States
    Several years ago I had back surgery and my solution to avoid scrunching down over the desk was to bring the desk up higher. I found the first computor monitor bracket at a garage sale for $5 and the second one, which holds a parts tray for the figure I am working on can be seen in the upper left corner of each pic. It just swings out and away when I am done. After I started using the big one, my detail work became better and I moved up another level of painting.
  19. Uruk-Hai PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    Sweden
    Although not being a very "obscure" trick the question of "pinning" arise every now and then. Last night I took some pictures of the method I use, inspired by Mike Blank. Hope it will be helpful to some.

    I have several piedestal like wood blocks that I use for this. Different sizes. The top is full of holes, usually five large ones and 15-40 smaller ones. The holes is drilled sporadically. Bottom is plain and steady and the edges are sanded round.

    First I determine what hole or holes to be used for the figure I have in mind to paint. Then I use Blue Tac and push it into the intended holes with a brass rod. When the hole/holes are filled I leave a little blob of Blue Tac above the hole.

    [IMG]

    Then I pust the rod drilled in the feets into the holes which thanks to the Blue Tac is pretty tight. In this case were only the foot at the back is pinned I put a blob also under the non-pinned foot to be more steady.

    [IMG]

    This give me a good grip to hold the figure in when painting, it can be set aside tilted within reason. It usually sits on pretty well but I would not turn it upside down, especially not a metalfigure.

    [IMG]
  20. Pete_H New Member

    Phil,
    Believe it or not, I've heard of guys who actually submerse their plastic palettes in water to keep the oils fresh. Go figure ...

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