WIP Arnhem

[Merryweather]

That's an awkward pose but you pulled it off it looks great.

Cheers Simon

I agree 100%

 

[Richie]

Hi All,
Got the second figure done at last, also needed to address the roof headliner. The problem with with the inside headliner is, it shows the tooling locators and the Tamiya logo & copyright. So this needed to be sanded back and then a quick pour of Mr Surfacer to level it out.
Now just leaving to dry and harden so I can start Airbrushing the base coat.
Cheers Richie

 

[Briggsy]

Good going, can't remember this particular issue when I did mine, but then gin tends to.have that effect on me!!!

Cheers 4

 

[Richie]

Hi All,
Well this is my head up and over the barricade! This is the first time I have layered a top coat on a vehicle, I hope the base coat colours and pattern are somewhere close and you AVF lads don't laugh too much.
I have chipped just a couple of small areas to expose the black underneath and see what it looks like. The hard work of filters, detailing and weathering will begin after I lay down colours on the chassis.
Please feel free to critique as I have Para jeeps and XXX corps vehicles to do in the future.
cheers
Richie

 

[Briggsy]

Looks good mate, better than my first attempt at airbrushing. Only thing I would suggest is maybe lower the pressure a little to avoid the spattering around the edges of the camouflage colours. Also practice on a piece of card before hitting the model just in case there is an issue, having to redo a vehicle after a cock up is so bloody frustrating! The Allied stuff should be easier as it's all just olive green of varying shades.

Cheers Simon

 

[Henk]

Looks good mate, better than my first attempt at airbrushing. Only thing I would suggest is maybe lower the pressure a little to avoid the spattering around the edges of the camouflage colours. Also practice on a piece of card before hitting the model just in case there is an issue, having to redo a vehicle after a cock up is so bloody frustrating! The Allied stuff should be easier as it's all just olive green of varying shades.

Cheers Simon

Simon points out the two things that stood out. Lowering the pressure will stop the stippled look of the edges. The bonnet looks a bit odd, as if you've used a mask of sort. It also looks at some areas like you're paint was a bit thin, and applieed a little to heavy. I can add pointers to your photos, but I'll have to do that in a moment, when I have some time to edit the photos. I would not really bother with chipping, this was a General's Staff car, which would have been looked after. Overall it looks a good start.

 

[Henk]

I'v done a quick attempt, but my computer keeps throwing up error messages when I try to edit the image in more detail..

1. This is what I meant with the 'mask' comment. The edges are to stark for a 'soft edge' camo, and the Dunkel Gelb to clean. If that makes sense?

2. The 'stippling' or spatter effect can be a few issues, as Simon mentioned, it can be to high a pressure, usually combined with too thick paint. It can also be paint drying at the tip of the needle.
You need to practice on a piece of card, or an old model. As you are doing camouflage on a 1/35 vehicle, you don't want to high a pressure, typically try 10 PSI, and keep thining the paint untill you get a smooth flow. You need very thin paint, and multiple, very thin layers, to build up the coverage. If you get 'spiderlegs' (sguigly lines running from the centre of the spot you are painting), you paint is to thin.
I tend to spary at 15psi, with my paint thinned about 2 to 3 parts thinner to paint. Sometimes even thinner, depending on how much coverage and transparency is needed.

What paints are you using, and what thinnirs?
What airbrush are you using?

 

[NigelR]

No comments on the airbrushing from me (it's always a bit of a journey into the unknown), but the figures look great. Very good work on the poses.

 

[BRAN]

This is not a vignette I would like to make or own, it is a bit "macabre" for me, but I must admit that you are doing very well and your work is very good. Congratulations.

 

[Richie]

This is not a vignette I would like to make or own, it is a bit "macabre" for me, but I must admit that you are doing very well and your work is very good. Congratulations.

Hi Bran,
Thank you, I appreciate it's not everyone's cup of tea but an unfortunate part of conflicts. I have quite a few books on Arnhem and a few of my latest projects have come from Arnhem Then and Now. Personally I feel it's important to reflect some of these photo's everything not's always brasso and parade ground soldiers.
cheers
Richie

 

[Richie]

No comments on the airbrushing from me (it's always a bit of a journey into the unknown), but the figures look great. Very good work on the poses.

Hi Nigel,
Thank you mate, the figures were a bit of a job too, glad you like them. The airbrushing just needs more practise, the more you use it the easier it gets. I have always liked creating scenes over painting them, that's why my painting always lags behind.
cheers
Richie

 

[Richie]

I'v done a quick attempt, but my computer keeps throwing up error messages when I try to edit the image in more detail..

1. This is what I meant with the 'mask' comment. The edges are to stark for a 'soft edge' camo, and the Dunkel Gelb to clean. If that makes sense?

2. The 'stippling' or spatter effect can be a few issues, as Simon mentioned, it can be to high a pressure, usually combined with too thick paint. It can also be paint drying at the tip of the needle.
You need to practice on a piece of card, or an old model. As you are doing camouflage on a 1/35 vehicle, you don't want to high a pressure, typically try 10 PSI, and keep thining the paint untill you get a smooth flow. You need very thin paint, and multiple, very thin layers, to build up the coverage. If you get 'spiderlegs' (sguigly lines running from the centre of the spot you are painting), you paint is to thin.
I tend to spary at 15psi, with my paint thinned about 2 to 3 parts thinner to paint. Sometimes even thinner, depending on how much coverage and transparency is needed.

What paints are you using, and what thinnirs?
What airbrush are you using?

Hi Henk,
I know where you are coming from, I tried to be clever and it fell short. Serves me right for trying to cut corners. I use a Paasche airbrush, paints are Vallejo, AK ect and I use AK and Vallejo thinners. Will double check the PSI, I cannot remember the last time I used it, may have been for groundwork.
cheers
Richie

 

[Henk]

Cutting corners can sometimes get amazingly decent results Richie. One reason I like painting armour, and doing dioramas (well, I've not done it for far to long, but that will change when I get into my new model space in a few weeks..), is that you can muck about with the weathering. Plenty of established techniques were developed 'by accident' lol.
I have no experience of the Paashe brushes (I have Iwata and H&S) but i understand that they are good reliable brushes. Play around with the pressure and thinning until you find that sweet spot. I'm always wary of people saying 'thin x to X ratio', or 'you must spray at x psi', because it all depends on your location, humidity, paint etc.. try and try again.
Have fun

 

[Briggsy]

Nice on both counts the car scene will be very poignant. A lot of ground work needed for the last stand of the 10th but I can already see how epic it is.

Cheers Simon

 

[Henk]

Looking good. The punctured flat tyres are a good touch, and the figures look very natural, and true to the photos. Will you add any paras with it?

The big diorama is taking good shape, looking forward to the adding of all the rubble. Enjoy painting all the Denisons .

 

[Richie]

Hi Simon,
Thank you.
Cheers
Richie

 

[Richie]

Looking good. The punctured flat tyres are a good touch, and the figures look very natural, and true to the photos. Will you add any paras with it?

The big diorama is taking good shape, looking forward to the adding of all the rubble. Enjoy painting all the Denisons .

Hi Henk,
Thank you, yes I am going to add a couple of Airborne figures to the scene.
Now I'll have a few hours laying down rubble.
Cheers
Richie

 

[Cortezdusk]

Hi All,
A few weeks ago I was off with Covid and whilst off I watched a really good documentary on Arnhem followed by watching the classic war film A Bridge Too Far. So I set off scrounging around for 1/35 figures and accoutraments in order to make a three stage Arnhem diorama.
I have bought loads of different figures from different manufacturers such as Steve Kirtley, Tahk, Nemrod, Resicast, ICM, Dragon, Bronco ect.
Phase 1 with be the road to Arnhem
Phase 2 will be the British Airborne fighting from a house
Phase 3 will be post battle with wounded Para's and P.O.W.'s

I am still waiting on a few figures and some Hornet heads ect but this is where I am to date. I would estimate between the 3 phases there will be approx. 40 to 50 figures. The German's in phase 3 will have a number of different units and uniforms as the German assault was made up of various units.

The house facade was just the two walls and I have made a balcony with a balustrade for the PIAT gunners and the three floors I have added. I will have a load of sandbags to make and a lot of rubble.

I would like to thank Tommi & Steve Readdie who I bounced ideas off and Steve provided me with a great link on Arnhem. Still a good Para Steve.
cheers
Richie
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That looks like a massive project you have going here! Very interested in seeing the progress on this one!

 

[Richie]

Hi,
Thanks for joining in, yes it's a massive itch that I need to scratch, but loving working on these Arnhem projects.
Cheers Richie

 

[Merryweather]

Wow!