hello painters,

i thought that you will asked why am I using airbrush ... so : here is my point

i came from the AFV scale modelling, 1/35, germany, 1944 ... i learned to use the AB as a brush, as a tool ... and i love using it

enjoying the hobby is the more important !

After over 50 years ,off and on, in this hobby, I've just invested in one. I really must get to grips with the various techniques, then perhaps I can dispose of the aerosols lurking on shelves I do like the marvellous effects that can be obtained in certain applications. Been looking at a lot of Youtube videos-- fascinating.
Old dog, new tricks

Alan

I have used the AB for over 30 years...several of my pieces shown on here were largely done with one...some applauded it...others less so...but it never was anything other than another tool in the box.

Ron

Never had one, never used one but there's no denying the results that can be achieved with an airbrush.
There's some outstanding work combining airbrush and traditional brush techniques.
Might well bite the bullet and do what Alans done.

There are so many to choose from...most of which will only frustrate the user...and a compressor...with a reserve tank...is an absolute must have to achieve the best results.
As long as you have the patience to get the balance right in terms of paint/thinner (if needed) and PSi (air pressure)...then yes...the results can be very rewarding.

Definitely has supplanted rattle can primers for me..and now is go to tool..needs decent level of equipment and some learning of materials: thinning, pressure..and moisture trap! But it’s great..

Also have one, a double action Iwata. Fine tool.

I have one. I only use it for priming with Vallejo Primer.
Started my last figure with it. My wife is pleased. No smell into the house.

Marc

I have two Iwata double-action brushes, one with a pistol grip & large cup for AFV spraying, & a fine detail one which I use for camo patterns, highlighting & flat coat spraying. The latter one is useful for figure painting & groundwork as well, so they both see regular use in the modelling cave.
I use an Iwata compressor too, nice & compact & fits easily on the bench.
The airbrush is one tool I definitely couldn’t do without!

Have one, harly ever use it. Can't seem to get it to do what I want and...........5 minutes spray=25 minutes cleaning the brush.....

Had same experience until I upped the dilution, and pressure..and used a larger needle..but yeah, it’s a pain at times to briefly spray, then spend hours cleaning. My rationale has been smell: vs spray cans for primer..and can get more done faster..but am no expert..if I lived anywhere close I’d enjoy seeing how pros do it...

I use tamiya..and no expert at all..only started when kagamusha convinced me the airbrush is nothing but one more arrow in the quiver..

I only use Tamiya acrylics through my airbrushes now, & thin them 50/50 with isopropanol which I buy very cheaply in large bottles usually from Amazon. I also use isopropanol for cleaning the brush afterwards, there’s no need to strip it down completely.

Just flush through with the solvent a couple of times as Steve suggests, remove the needle & wipe it over with a cotton bud soaked in isopropanol, then clean the bore of the brush with a fine wire brush (bought mine from the Airbrush Company in Sussex, & various sizes are available). Reassemble the brush & flush through again at high pressure, & you’re good to go for your next colour.

Same goes for using enamels or lacquer paints (I used to use Testors Dullcote quite a lot), except the solvent to use is lacquer or cellulose thinners, available very cheaply from DIY stores. Just watch out for the smell, & if shooting it through Iwata brushes regularly check the o-ring seals frequently as too much lacquer thinner can degrade them over time.

One more tip: when selecting the brand of airbrush you fancy buying, check out nail art supply stores. They sometimes sell branded Iwata or other leading makes at large discounts for trade customers - I once bought an Iwata Eclipse at a Florida nail salon for 50% less than the retail price, because my wife had her Sally’s discount card with her.

If looking at new compressor, I love silentaire (North American name) from Werther in Houston. Oil version unit and dead quiet ...no more than a refrigerator..Euro-tec is euro name..they are made in Italy.

If I may offer some thoughts...even with 30 years of use behind me...I consider myself nothing more than competent with the AB...and most certainly not an 'expert' by any means.
What I can offer are a few basic guidelines from my experience...these are not rules...merely tips/tricks I have learned the hard way.
A large number of new users complain of spending more time cleaning the AB than spraying with it...this is normally the result of an imbalance between consistency of medium...needle/nozzle size and pressure.
Always thin your chosen medium outside of the AB cup...you will see many videos where the user mixes it in the cup...trust me...avoid doing this...the reason being...particles of unthinned pigment will drop from the cup into the 'throat' of the AB and cause spitting/clogging from the start.
One way to gauge the right consistency before attempting to spray is this;
Mix your paint and thinner in a suitable container...a jar...bottle lid etc.
Now dip a flat brush into the mix and draw it across the top lip of the AB cup...and watch how it travels down into it...it should reach the bottom in about one + seconds...leaving a trail you can hardly see the metal through.
If it takes longer...and you cannot just see the metal through it...then it's too thick.
Conversely...if it races down the inside...and you can see the metal more than the paint...too thin.
Where thinners are concerned...a good point of reference is this...if you use a thinner that evaporates quickly...keep in mind that it will also cause the paint to dry out much more quickly in the AB...result...tip dry...cleaning needed
With regard to what PSi to use...commonly...most manufacturers give a suggested figure but...again...this is not a hard and fast rule...as there will be times you will need to vary it...the reasons for this are many and varied...but a couple of these reasons are...when you want to work close to the surface you lower the pressure to avoid the paint 'spidering' when it hits the surface...whilst when working larger areas you raise the pressure to get a more even coverage.
Where cleaning is concerned...yes...you can blast it through with cellulose and...yes...it will remove pretty much any kind of medium...however it will...over time...wear out your seals...and more importantly...it will remove all traces of much needed lubricant from the AB...which will reduce the performance of the trigger and needle bearing...which in turn will lead to lower performance/control of your work.

Like I said...the above are not rules...and many would argue against the things I have said to avoid...stating they do those things without any problems...all I am saying is this...they have worked for me all these years...so can't be too far off the mark.

Ron

I’ve been resisting getting one. The main reason I don’t is I would rather not deal with the maintenance.

and if you still want to mix in the cup : add thinning medium first then paint .. not the opposite

Hi all haven’t been here in a while but this thread caught my attention not doing any painting for a good while and hoping to get back to the hobby soon the only thing I can add is practice practice practice and also I found out early just starting it seamed easier for me to use the auxiliaries from the same company vallejo paint use vallejo auxiliary products . There are a lot of home brews for these you will read about or watch on you tube all these did was complicate things for me at first