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Airbrush questions

Discussion in 'Painting Techniques' started by iceman, Jul 24, 2006.

  1. iceman Member

    I have a few questions that I would appreciate if someone could answer.

    1. What is the best dilution ratio for sparying Andea and Vallejo colour acrylics through a Badger 200.

    2. I've only used compressed air in cans, I am looking for a compressor and wondered what planeteers could recommend as a good compressor to buy. Budget isn't a problem.

    3. As my Badger is now getting on for 14 years old and is only a single action, I was also wondering what a good dual action airbrush would be for figure painting, a friend of mine who does alot of aircraft and armour has recommended a Sata Graph 2.

    Thanks in advance for any responses.

    Regards

    Tim
  2. Figure Mad Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Hi Tim

    Hows it going mate, hope all is OK

    I have as you know just had to buy a new compressor, I got a T-RCP104 Ripmax Compressor £150.00, I got it from here

    http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/

    Its quiet and small and has fully adjustable pressure

    As far as mixing colours, I tend to mix them to look like the consistancy of milk, and spray with a lower pressure on them, I also add a little retardent to stop them clogging up the needle/nozzle.

    As for airbrush, sorry, but I will always recommend an Aerograph 63, from Devillebis, absolute beauty, mine is getting for close to 45 years old now, and I can still buy parts for it, there is no plastic in this one, all brass and chrome parts with stainless needles.

    Hope this helps

    Dave
  3. iceman Member

    Dave

    I'm fine thanks and you?

    As ever I always appreciate your invaluable comments.

    I guess I should look into Devilebis, any ideas where I could do some research on them, also what's a good price to pay for one?

    Love your latest bust, stunning work. what's next on the bench? I've finished the Hussar, there are some images on the Planet, in new to figures topic better images. I also now have a vbench, which I've posted some images on my latest piece the Young's Roman Centurion bust, images aren't great, but would appreciate any comments that you have on them.

    Speak soon.

    Regards

    Tim
  4. Figure Mad Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Hi Tim

    Thanks for the comments on the bust, the next one on the bench is a little secret at present until its done, then it will go on here. I’ll give your figures a look over mate anytime you wish, I liked the last, takes a lot of guts to have a go at a Le Cimier Figure they are so big...

    As for the airbrush mate try the links below, hope they help, its not a cheap airbrush, but it should you a lifetime, with a good looking after...

    Dave

    http://www.bellcreative.co.uk/aerograph_ai...es_contents.htm
    http://www.londongraphics.co.uk/
  5. Einion Well-Known Member


    Same as here: http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8991
    For basic flat coats I would recommend you thin just as much as necessary to give you the coverage that you're seeking.

    The current Aztek one is quite good but I really don't know what else is available in the UK these days, sorry.

    <!--QuoteBegin-iceman
    @Jul 24 2006, 03:00 PM
    3. As my Badger is now getting on for 14 years old and is only a single action, I was also wondering what a good dual action airbrush would be for figure painting, a friend of mine who does alot of aircraft and armour has recommended a Sata Graph 2.[/quote]
    What kind of spraying do you want/need to do?

    Einion
  6. iceman Member

    Einion

    Thanks for your reply again!! I forgot that I had posted that, I did do a search before posting this one, but perhaps the search parameters weren't correct.

    Really appreciate you taking the time to post again. The spraying I want to do would be for larger figures say 90mm up and most of their clothes, detail painting I would stick to a brush, unless the airbrush was good enough to do very thin lines with no overspray, looking at Figure Mads work, I guess the one he has would be good, as I know that he in the main uses an airbrush.

    Thanks again for taking the time to answer, it is much appreciated.

    Kind regards

    Tim
  7. Christos Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Greece
    I'm using a silair compressor and an Iwata high perform-0.2.They are both excellent even for extreme details.When I'm using vallejo air colours the dilution is 3:1(colour-thinner).I'm spraying also model colour range but I put in the mix a little airbrush cleaner.You must clean the front of the niddle very often while you painting these colours.Airpressure must be low.
  8. Einion Well-Known Member


    Don't mention it, that's what we're here for.

    <!--QuoteBegin-iceman
    @Jul 25 2006, 10:16 AM
    The spraying I want to do would be for larger figures say 90mm up and most of their clothes, detail painting I would stick to a brush, unless the airbrush was good enough to do very thin lines with no overspray...[/quote]
    I'd stick to doing this by brush if I were you. Most airbrush artists do a surprising amount with brushes and using other techniques, especially when it comes to fine details, although there are a few insane guys who can do stuff you'd scarcely believe where 99% of it is through the airbrush.

    Apart from the fact that it takes a really high-end airbrush to paint lines you'd legitimately call thin, it's pretty tricky to do this at the best of times and over a three-dimensional surface it would be very difficult. Plus we require a standard of sharpness under close scrutiny that I don't think is possible by spraying alone. It's not easy blending the work done afterwards with the spraying (in fact it can be damned hard) but it'll make you a better painter in the long run working to make the transitions seamless.

    For figures you can do a great deal with a fairly simple airbrush (all my early pieces were done with the single-action Aztek 3000S). While a double-action AB is useful it's not essential, as long as you have pressure control on your compressor and flow control on the AB body. But given how inexpensive Azteks are you can get a double-action one without breaking the bank, saving you money for the compressor which will be the expensive part of the deal.

    First or second piece I airbrushed:
    http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a252/Ein...awnee_Front.jpg

    Other pieces:
    http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a252/Ein...e_Detail_FB.jpg
    http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a252/Einion/Bust_Front.jpg

    And just to show that scale isn't necessarily an issue:
    http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a252/Einion/Desert_Rat.jpg
    http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a252/Ein...Don_Cossack.jpg
    http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a252/Ein...FM_Triptych.jpg

    Einion
  9. Christos Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Greece
    Those figures are excellent Einion!
    christos
  10. Einion Well-Known Member

    Thanks Christos.

    Einion
  11. P GREEN Active Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Hi Tim
    As Vallejo acyrilics go usually I try to stay under 12 lbs and retarder is nessacery to reduce the amount of "skinning" on your needle . Not sure if its available in the UK is golden air brush thinner,used with retarder works great As for the dilution rate it can be all over the place its truely relavant to what you are hoping to acheive wheather it would be building up your shadows or high lights or your base coat. every one is a little differnet this way . Generally have 2 Iwatas first an HP-B and HP-SB . They are more expensive brushes,but the way i look at it is you spend a little more but save a lot of headaches. It is no problem to get replacement parts for these brushes in any art or graphics shop.I have been using a silent air compressor for about 15 years .As far as acrylics go I have sprayed everything from Vallejo to luquidex tube paint thru these brushes.

    PS: not all retarders are the same some have incredialely long drying times
    which can be a pain .You may need to experiment with different brands

    Paul
  12. iceman Member

    Paul

    Very informative post thanks alot.

    People seem to like Iwatas, alot of good things seem to be said by the trade press, although they are more expensive.

    It's all a bit of a minefield, might just stay with my badger and air cans for the time being and see how I get on with doing figures, if I feel comfortable, might look to getting a compressor and then finally a new air brush and have the Bdager for back up.

    Thanks everyone for your posts.

    Regards

    Tim

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