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75mm Murmillo

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by Roland Meng, Nov 20, 2019.

  1. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Hello Guys,

    I started to paint this little piece from Pegaso, the details of the armour are premium, it’s fun to paint it!
    I painted it in oils over acrylic!
    Cheers

    C9141EC2-4730-4E08-B132-97D5A876E9B5.jpeg 9066F601-F43F-4137-AE02-1F1722B3FA38.jpeg E803536F-63CC-412D-B50F-342098A0F876.jpeg 82A73164-B6BC-413B-85C2-208241273F3D.png 295506F0-ED6F-4612-8749-72FCEF6884F3.jpeg 1193810A-B965-4F44-9881-4170AB7FDF10.jpeg
    Gary_81, Blind Pew, Martin64 and 6 others like this.
  2. megroot A Fixture

    Country:
    Netherlands
    Excellent start.
    You paint without a primer on the metal??

    Marc
    Roland Meng likes this.
  3. TERRYSOMME1916 Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Looking good but same question as Marc, are you painting without primer?
    TERRY
    Roland Meng likes this.
  4. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Thank you Guys for your kind words! It’s true, i never use a primer! Just acrylic base coat, and than the lights and shadows with oils! I tried a couple of times to airbrush the primer, but I never saw a big difference, and I decided to skip this step! I would use defently a primer if it would be a mechanical part, which has some function, and the paint must hold on! ☺️
    Cheers
  5. TERRYSOMME1916 Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    I haven't painted a metal figure for over 30 years and remember filing and sanding away the mold lines filing the gaps etc then using a fine wire wool to smooth everything off, washing in washing up liquid, drying off and then using a car primer spray to seal the metal to stop it oxidising and also create an even keyed surface to take the matt humbrol undercoats before applying the oils, thankfully 30 years on the figures dont show any signs of deterioration so I guess if I ever decide to work on a metal figure from my grey army I will probably use my old fashioned method, however if no primer works then I suppose it cuts out a stage and there is one less layer to cover finely detailed sections.
    Following with interest.
    TERRY
  6. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Well Terry you right regarding with the prepair job! It’s not easy to scrap down some unwanted marks, the primer will help sure a lot! Because I don’t use a primer for me takes a little bit more time to get a clean surface, and if the results are not okay, I put to the spot a little bit thicker,but not to much paint, but the casts today awesome, and I had never a hard time to clean them!
    Thank you for your interests
    Cheers
  7. Blind Pew A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Roland I will follow with interest, those skin tones are looking great already.
    Roland Meng likes this.
  8. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Glind Pew,
    Thank you for your kind words.
    Cheers
  9. Gary_81 Active Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Great job can't wait to see how this turns out, it's also really interesting to see you don't use a primer.

    Gary
    Roland Meng likes this.
  10. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Thanks Gary,
    hopefuly i will have some time to paint next week :)
  11. Alex Well-Known Member

    Country:
    Canada
    Pewter (and tin) and copper (and brass) will form a protective oxidation layer. I strongly suggest removing this layer before painting over it. Priming will improve further adhesion of paint.
    Roland Meng likes this.
  12. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Thanks for the advice Alexa, I never had any issues with metal figures, and to skip the primer! I have a couple old Pegaso figures, they are nearly 10 year old, and no paint issue...
    Cheers
  13. NeilW Active Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Ref primer: I've a couple of 30-40 year old metal figs painted in the old Humbrol enamels* without any primer and they seem to have survived (except perhaps on mishandled corners etc where I suspect even a primed fig would lose it's topcoat).

    Same with some even older Airfix and Historex plastics that were fine last time I saw them (they live in a box in my Mum's loft).

    Having said that if/as/when I manage to extract my digit and get the paint brushes out** I'll use primers.

    I don't remember people banging on about priming in those days (but perhaps I just didn't listen ;) )

    *I've seen a few people say that they're not as good as they used to be.

    *didn't mean to mean what that sounds like :eek:
    Roland Meng likes this.
  14. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Hello Guys,
    tini update is done, right arm is done! I hope I can complete the legs this week! Has any of you guys some magic trick to matt down the oil paint! I tried baby powder, but I’m but sure about it! My next figure should be Matt, to make my eyes happy
    Cheers

    Attached Files:

  15. Gary_81 Active Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    That's looking great Roland. Can't give any advice on the oils sadly as the only time I have used oils is on horses when I wanted a high sheen for the coat.

    Gary
  16. Wayneb A Fixture

    Country:
    United-States
    Looks very good Roland.....always liked working with metal...no doubt more work then resin but still prime with mist coats of both enamel and lacquer as to not lose detail. Personally, I don't think I would ever polish totally smooth a metal surface because a lose of adhesion. Just my opinion.

    Wayne
  17. TERRYSOMME1916 Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    r
    How to obtain a Matt finish when using oils? a question that I have asked on PF before and the oil painters came up with several options; using drying cabinets, putting the paint on very thin and brushing it out etc, but the one I decided to try was to use a Matt Effect Thinner mixed into the oil paint when mixing up your base colour and then adding very small amounts of this thinner when adding oil colours to the base coat mix to get your shadow and highlight colours. I have been experimenting with this over the last 2 busts that I have been working on and although you do get a matt finish there are several observations that I can point out:
    By adding the thinner it changes the structure of the oil paint and I found that blending the shadows and highlights into the base coat colour can be patchy and you don't get the desired smooth fade.
    When the paint dries out I found that the base coat can be totally matt but the shadows could have a slight sheen and I feel that some colours can look completely different eg, a dark red/black shadow looks good when wet but after drying out matt can look like a murky brown and need further work to bring back to a darker Red/Black shadow.
    For all it costs for a bottle of thinner, its worth trying and you may find a way of using it that works better for you.
    TERRY

    Attached Files:

    Roland Meng likes this.
  18. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Thank you Terry, you helped me a lot! I will defenetly buy one, and try it on my next figure!
    Thanks a lot!
  19. Roland Meng Active Member

    Country:
    Hungary
    Hello Guys,
    I managed finally to paint the legs, some small areas are only left.. Started to paint the shield to, now I’m waiting for the paint to arraive. The cobalt blue now im usimg is not covering well, and i had to paint a little bit thicker the blue parts on the figure to! Regarding the legs, im planing to paint some blood on it, im Still looking for the right technic!
    Cheers

    Attached Files:

    NeilW likes this.

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