1/10th vive lempereur, col-burthe 4th hussars

[Steve Brodie]

And so it begins, work on this fantastic and HUGE subject.

So the 4 parts of the horse have been cleaned up and glued as a front and back set, There are some noticeable gaps and a mis-alignment :disappointed:. No matter how i matched the pairs up, i couldn't get a perfect fit, so have gone with the best i could get. Will need some filling of the gaps and some major sanding on the rear back joint. picking up some new dremel sanders today from Screwfix. Once the putty is dry can sand everything to match, not a game stopper, just adds to the enjoyment., and isnt that what this hobby is all about anyway.

Everything in this kit is LARGE

 

[Nap]

Hi Steve

Following this closely

Certainly looks a lot of resin !

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[MCPWilk]

I had the same issue with the 17th Lancer conversion (https://www.planetfigure.com/thread...rds-trumpeter-egypt-1882.239615/#post-1066947). Of course the larger the casting the larger the even minor mismatches between the parts. The horses moulded by Victory Miniatures have complete bodies with separate legs. This doesn't get rid of moulding gaps but does help.

Mike

 

[Steve Brodie]

I had the same issue with the 17th Lancer conversion (https://www.planetfigure.com/thread...rds-trumpeter-egypt-1882.239615/#post-1066947). Of course the larger the casting the larger the even minor mismatches between the parts. The horses moulded by Victory Miniatures have complete bodies with separate legs. This doesn't get rid of moulding gaps but does help.

Mike

Looking very nice

 

[Ronaldo]

And so it begins, work on this fantastic and HUGE subject.

So the 4 parts of the horse have been cleaned up and glued as a front and back set, There are some noticeable gaps and a mis-alignment :disappointed:. No matter how i matched the pairs up, i couldn't get a perfect fit, so have gone with the best i could get. Will need some filling of the gaps and some major sanding on the rear back joint. picking up some new dremel sanders today from Screwfix. Once the putty is dry can sand everything to match, not a game stopper, just adds to the enjoyment., and isnt that what this hobby is all about anyway.

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Everything in this kit is LARGE


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[yellowcat]

Hi Steve,
Thank you for the pictures. Castings need lots of prep work and re-sculpting. You may use a heat gun to soften the resin to fix the mis-alignment. I did mine on the RP war elephant.

Felix

 

[Richard Baxter]

Hi Steve,
Thank you for the pictures. Castings need lots of prep work and re-sculpting. You may use a heat gun to soften the resin to fix the mis-alignment. I did mine on the RP war elephant.

Felix

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Hi Felix, what do you mean by a heat gun? I take it it's something hotter than a hair dryer but not as strong as a paint stripper.

 

[yellowcat]

Hi Felix, what do you mean by a heat gun? I take it it's something hotter than a hair dryer but not as strong as a paint stripper.

It has 1500 w with 2 heat/speeds. It can strip paint.

 

[Steve Brodie]

Hi Steve,
Thank you for the pictures. Castings need lots of prep work and re-sculpting. You may use a heat gun to soften the resin to fix the mis-alignment. I did mine on the RP war elephant.

Felix

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Damm didnt think of that, all glued now, and seams filled in.

 

[Nap]

It has 1500 w with 2 heat/speeds. It can strip paint.

View attachment 405305

That's a good idea to remember

Nap

 

[Richard Baxter]

That's a good idea to remember

Nap

Yes, but that thing generates some serious heat, some tough gloves needed, I fancy. Also, can you focus the heat enough to work on a small and delicate resin figure?

 

[yellowcat]

Yes, but that thing generates some serious heat, some tough gloves needed, I fancy. Also, can you focus the heat enough to work on a small and delicate resin figure?

I didn't use any gloves on the low heat setting. You have to be careful not to toast the resin. Just heat the parts a few tries.

 

[grasshopper]

I didn't use any gloves on the low heat setting. You have to be careful not to toast the resin. Just heat the parts a few tries.

I use the very same..it’s life saver for large resin pieces..a fact of the casting process that twists and such happen, and varies even with the same piece done twice and coming out differently..but some makers are really bad..I am quite severely reactive to resin dust: esp from 3D printing varieties, some from Russia...and wearing a respirator sucks the fun out of the hobby..

 

[yellowcat]

I use the very same..it’s life saver for large resin pieces..a fact of the casting process that twists and such happen, and varies even with the same piece done twice and coming out differently..but some makers are really bad..I am quite severely reactive to resin dust: esp from 3D printing varieties, some from Russia...and wearing a respirator sucks the fun out of the hobby..

I wet sand most of my resin kits.

 

[grasshopper]

I wet sand most of my resin kits.

I try to as well..but at some point the truly awful sculpt/casting just get to me and I toss them in frustration for the misshapen junk they can be

 

[Ronaldo]

There seems to be a limit to what you can do with resin as is with metal castings in a centrifuge
The bigger the piece the worse it seems to get

 

[valiant]

Unless the silicone mould has a rigid shell to hold its shape, which large moulds such as these should ideally have, the sheer weight of resin in a large mould will be enough to distort the shape and the seam - imagine the weight of water in a plastic bucket and you get some idea!

Im afraid it comes down to a lack of understanding of the intricacies and engineering of the mouldmaking process and the problems it can bring....

 

[grasshopper]

There seems to be a limit to what you can do with resin as is with metal castings in a centrifuge
The bigger the piece the worse it seems to get

I am no expert, but some young friends not far from here have a fantasy brand, creaturecaster, and have explained pretty much as you say..but that said, have to start with quality sculpts, and thoughtful design in respect of parts being cast and assembly..not all do that, or strive for continual improvement..the actual resin composition also affects things..handling thru the process in terms of volumes of resin and cooling- large volumes don’t cool uniformly and yield distortion..

 

[Ronaldo]

I am no expert, but some young friends not far from here have a fantasy brand, creaturecaster, and have explained pretty much as you say..but that said, have to start with quality sculpts, and thoughtful design in respect of parts being cast and assembly..not all do that, or strive for continual improvement..the actual resin composition also affects things..handling thru the process in terms of volumes of resin and cooling- large volumes don’t cool uniformly and yield distortion..

That was my point .there is a limit to what can be achieved and be cost effective.
54mm to 75mm seems to work best ,going above this requires more skill in the sculpt ,mould ,casting and engineering of the piece to pull it off
successfully

 

[Capt. Warren]

I have the same problem. Was able to create a much better fit by sanding the flat sides of the front and back of the horse (4 pieces) using sandpaper on a dead flat surface. Worked pretty well I think. This is the first pass at fitting. Should get better with a bit more sanding. Also appears as though this same process will need to be repeated in joining the back section of the horse to the front section. I have not yet tried fitting the head. I am also thinking about how to paint the assembled horse. I am going to try making something like a miniature "spit" that will slot into the front of the martingale (hole will be covered by the medallion and into the hole for the tail that will be covered by the tail. My rig will allow me to turn the horse by rotating the spit. Just has to be high enough for the hooves to clear the base of the rig.