The next figure in line for me is the Buffalo Dancer by Andrea. Does anyone have any tips or ideas on what to use for the string on his bow? I was thinking about buying some wire in the right scale but I'm open to suggestion.

I have 2 or 3 other bowmen in my gray army so any help would be greatly appreciated for future reference.

Thanks.

Wire can be a problem for bowstrings as it's hard to get it taut (and to stay taut - even a very slight knock can bend wire and it won't go back, which you see in competition photos occasionally!)

If you have access to someone with hair long enough human hair is worth trying. But stretched sprue might be the best bet. If you use sprue, twisting while pulling can replicate the appearance of real bowstrings really nicely.

Einion

Carl & Einion-

Thanks for the help. I did find some wire in the right scale, but never thought about what happens if it gets bent. I never would've guessed that human hair would work. My daughter & both sons have headfulls of long hair. Plenty of material for trial & error.

Thanks again.

Mike,

Model airplane builders use fishing line for aerials (antennas stretched from the tail fin to the cockpit); this can also be extremely thin. Use cyano glue for fixing and it can be pulled tight by application of a little heat. Or so they say, as I must admit I still have to try it myself, but they tell me it works great.

Good luck, Adrian

I used a Badger hair for a bow from an old brush I had. No bending problem as the hair was flexible.

Carbon fibre rod is also good - this place has .020" you might be able to find smaller out on the net : http://www.dragonplate.com/ecart/product.asp?pID=729&cID=39

"Detail Master" (car model guys) use these straight aluminum rods 0.015" diameter for fuel lines and brake lines (to replicate straight tubing, pipes)

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/dtm/dtm1152.htm

I really liked the "detail master" aluminum rods when i was making aircraft cockpit detail sets, it came out of the package perfectly straight and then i could shape it in anyway and it would not spring back like normal wire (since it was aluminum) much easier to work with compared to brass or copper, cut's easier too (for like sawing through a figure armature )

Mike,
Small parts have some very thin stainless wire which is fairly stable and will flex quite a bit without bending. Some modelers of world war one aircraft use this for rigging and measure the length with dividers and then cut it with wire cutters.
Good luck.
Cheers
John

If you intend to use stretched sprue. . .

Stretched sprue is easy to replace if it breaks. And I've had a lot of experience
using stretched sprue and attaching it with Super Glue/cynoacrylate. However,
I use accelerator to make the super glue harden or cure instantly. Forget
about using the pump that comes with the accelerator bottle.
It wastes too much of the expensive accelerator. Make
an applicator with a wood dowel rod with a piece of wire bent into an
eyelet at the end. That will hold a drop of Super glue in it that you can touch
to the proper place exactly.

Now if you use sprue and want it to be taunt, which means you'll apply heat,
I suggest you use a hair dryer. Not the smoke of a match or candle or punk,
etc. as those can burn the sprue into. Been there, done that, and yep. . .
Bought the T-Shirt.

Good luck,

Jayhawker

If I were you I would not use any accelerator it can cause the plastic to just snap. It sometimes attacks really thin plastic. You can also use thread for bow strings. I recommend it be stiffened with glue, or even just paint. but I have had very good luck with it.

"Invisible" thread for sewing or mono-filament fishing line is another option, depending on the scale. For smaller scales you can buy "spandex" thread at sewing stores. It's composed of many small, elastic fibers. These can be separated and you can then use an individual one as the bow string.

My thanks to all for the suggestions. I would never have guessed I have so many options. With 3 or 4 different bowmen in the gray army, I'll have a chance to try each.

Thanks again.

I've used human hair (my wife's to be precise) on a number of bowmen, and I'd recommend it to you. The best and strongest part of the hair is closest to the root, and because hair is naturally flexible it can be tied in a knot and stretched to create tension. The best part is that a human hair is roughly in scale for 54mm up to 90mm.

Long grey hairs look pretty good when replicating gut strings.