Hi fellow sculptors,

I've tried using Milliput and Magic Sculp and I always get a very severe allergic reaction to it, which makes the skin on my hands, face and neck very itchy, red and swollen. I use latex gloves and I still get a reaction. Apparently the fumes are enough to cause me to react.

My doctor has advised me not to use any 2 part epoxy resins ever again, as I am obviously allergic to the chemicals.

Can anyone please suggest a suitable medium for sculpting that is non toxic,has similar properties to Magic Sculp and will allow me to continue sculpting without causing an allergic reaction.

Please help me

Sorry to hear that Tony. Allergies are such a pain.

You might give Sculpey a try. I haven't used it yet, but I have some just waiting. I'm not sure if you can carve and sand it like MS, but other more familiar with it can be more helpful. You have to bake it to set it also, so your working time is as long as it takes.

Have you tried green stuff or ProCreate? While still two part, their properties are different than MS. I wonder if you could track down a list of ingredients to compare? I don't know that an MSDS (Material Safety and Data Sheet) would be helpful, but it might and should be available from the companies.

Hope you figure out a solution and can keep sculpting.

Wendy

Some use fimo but you have to bake it, and the results are as good as any I've seen. Not tried it myself, but it might deal with the reaxtion your getting.

This is sad news indeed Tony! Just as you caught the sculpting craze...
Makes me second guess my use of saliva (my own) on MS... But bottom line is it should've/would've reacted on me by now...
Brad

I've used MagicSculp, Milliput, Kneadatite, and Super Sculpey. Obviously, the first 3 are epoxy based products that you are allergic to. The Super Sculpey has similar working characteristics to MagicSculp, but it is not self-hardening-- it must be baked, and sometimes it can crack during the baking process. After it has been baked, it can be carved and sanded, but it works differently than MagicSculp-- i don't know, maybe a little crumbly when you carve on it. I still have control over what I'm doing, but it just handles differently.

I've never tried it on anything very small, so I don't know how it would work for say 70mm or smaller, and I have no idea how it would work for conversions.

One caveat: Super Sculpey uses a diluent to help keep it soft and workable. The bottle has the following warning on it: "Prolonged or repeated contact may cause skin irritation.

There is another product out there that I've never tried called Castilene. It's a wax-based clay, and you can find out more about it at The Compleat Sculptor. Click on "online catalog' on the left, then click on "clay index" under C, and scroll down until you see "wax-based clay".

Hi MSzwarc and everyone who has responded to my call for help,

Thank you so much for your suggestions.

I've taken your advice and follwed the links to check out Castilene, and sent an email to The Compleat Sculptor in the hope they can recommend a product that as similar to Magic Sculpt AND safe for me to use.

Thanks for your help. I'll let you know how I go and get back to you when I receive some news.

Hy Tony,

I suggest for you the Sculpey too, or the non toxic clays, like Chavant Clay (from Smooth-On, this firm is a resaller). As I know the Car designers use Chavant Clay to creat a new forms. It's very cheap and great pocket. I have it, but didn't use it yet.

Cheers,
Balázs

Hi

I use the Sculpey Super Firm Grey, it comes in a large box and is similar to Procreate before it starts to set. I haven't used it for a complete sculpt, but it's easy to use, you can work on something for days, and then harden it. Cleans-up well with abrasive Scotch Pads. I also use a heat gun for the small items, it makes the work go so much faster...no more waiting for curing of the putty. Calvin Tan has some thoughts on this on his site, that's where I got a lot of good ideas.

Good luck

Bill

If you are doing one offs just know that you will have to make a mold of any thing you do in Chavant Clay or Castilene because they are not self hardening. Then you can make a resin master. I now people who swear by both. When I worked at 21century toys most of the sculptors worked in Castilene.

Hi Balazs, Bill & Jeff,

Thanks for your help guys.

I don't intend to cast this piece, it's a one off just for me and I want to paint it as soon as I've finished sculpting.

hi tony,

Castilene IS wax.
Super sculpey comes in firm or pink, you can carve and sand it , cured or not; you do not need Dilutant imo. I have never used it . Vaseline works just as well. Talc can be used to polish the surface before baking.
Having used Epoxies for a long time before, i now only use Polyclays. i like the working time because there is no rush, you got as long as you need.


hope that helps ------ tim.

Hi Tim,

Can you tellmemore about Polyclays??

They sound interesting. Do you need to bake them to make them harden, or do they harden on their own?

What brand do you you use??

I and my friend have the same reaction. What I recomend is Apoxie Sculpt (http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html) that is very good medium! It is completly non-alergic. I prefere its white color. Regards, Piotr

Hi Piotr,

Thank you very much for your reply. I have checked out the website of Aves Studio and sent them an email about their Apoxie Sculpt products.

It's reassuring to know I'm not the only person who suffers from this problem, and I'm very glad you've found a product to use that is both safe and enjoyable to use.

Rest assured, Tony. I'm a member of the itching club myself although in my case, the symptoms appeared rather late (after 13 years?). I've tried many brands of epoxy putty. EVERY one of them (including Aves) causes the allergy in different degrees. As far as I'm concerned, the most severe is MagicSculp, Aves, A+B and the mildest being the good old Milliput White.

The main cause is skin contact of course BUT I discovered that there's also the FUMES created by the chemical reaction (when you mix the two components). It's all the most treacherous as the stuff is odourless! I found out that mixing the putties under a kitchen extractor or wearing a face mask (and latex gloves of course) can alleviate most of the problems. It's well worth giving it a try.

I'm currently swichting to Polyclays (Fimo, Sculpey,...). My last WWI busts were sculpted in Fimo. It's 100% safe allergy-wise but you'll need to adapt your sculpting techniques to the new medium.

HTH

Quang

Hi Quang,

Thanks mate, it is reassuring to know I'm not the only person who suffers allergic reactions to this stuff. Magic Sculp seems to be the main culprit. My doctor told me the fumes are enough to cause my reaction, since I seem to be hyper-sensitive to the chemicals and even small airborne particles are potentialy dangerous to me. That's probably why my reaction was so quick, compared to your 13 years.

I've just sent an email to the Australian distributors of Super Sculpey seeking an MSDS and instructions on using Sculpey. If it checks out, I'll by some and continue with my sculpting.

Thanks once again to everyone who has responded to my SOS and offered their advice.

Some misunderstandings about 2 part epoxy putties

Just wanted to clear up a couple things up based on reading all the posts to this thread.

I've looked at most of the 2 part epoxy (resin:hardener) putty product MSDSs. They all appear to use variations of the same chemical reaction and will cause the allergic sensitization reactions. When mixed they all go through a chemical reaction, yielding vapors which also can produce the sensitization reaction. When dry, if you sand the surfaces, inhaling the dry dusts should not set off the sensitization reaction but if you've already been breathing the vapors, the dust may irritate the mucousal lining, causing you to cough, etc.

For those who are hypersensitive, like my friend Tony, I just would not use them at all. You can have much more severe reactions than skin, eye and mucous membrane irritations. You really do not want to go there.

For those who are not hypersensitive, it is possible to use the 2 part epoxies safely with a few precautions. Some manufacturers show photos of their products being mixed and used without gloves. I would not recommend mixing putties, handling them before they dry, etc., without wearing thin nitrile rubber gloves. You can use other kinds of rubber, but that's what I would use. I would work in a well-ventilated area or use a fan to disperse vapors. You may also want to wear a half-face air-purifying respirator with organic vapor cartridges. You can buy these in a paint store or online. They come in 3 sizes, so buy one that seems to fit your face. You can't use any respirator unless you are clean-shaven where the respirator fits against your skin. The respirator has to seal up tight so you breathe through the cartridges and not through leaks. If you are using a small cooker or heating light to speed up the reaction, remember that the vapors are being produced throughout this process. Once the reaction has gone to completion and the putty is absolutely dry, it can be handled without gloves.

Keep your hands, including gloved hands away from your eyes. Just a small amount in your eyes can cause an unpleasant reaction.

Remember that all the 2 part epoxy products are progressive chemical sensitizers. Just because you don't get a sensitization reaction now, does not mean you won't ever get one.

I continue to use MS and other 2 part putties and have not had a reoccurrence of my personal dermatitis and allergic reaction. Like Tony and others, I am also exploring alternatives.

All the best,
Dan

Hello Dan,

I arrived at exactly the same conclusions as yours. Only I did it the hard way!

Joking aside, your statement is clear and precise. It should prove helpful to all the putty rollers, newbies and veterans alike.

Thanks,
Quang

hi Tony,
way back when , i started with some pink s/s, then went to Green stuff for a few years then came back to polyclay.

i will use any type, but lately have got and recommend the Gray Firm but some folks dont get on with it saying its too crumbly. the way round this is to mix it. lots of guys and gals at the Clubhouse use a pink/gray mix.
i have done a study in pure SSFG and have one started with a 'mix'- equally i could and have sculpted in plain old soft fimo!
if you look at my v-bench, the legs and head sketch are 'bog standard' out of the shop Fimo. best way to describe Polyclay is Plasticene that you can harden in the oven. It also blends better that any Epoxy i have used and you can do everything you might like to with an Epoxy.
this is just my few cents any-hoo.

hope i have helped! ---- tim.

Tim - Many thanks for the benefit of your experience with polyclays! I don't want to hijack the thread, but would really like to hear more from you and from others who are using mixes of polyclays and, more particularly, why and for what features of the figure, etc. What mixes seem to work well to do what things?

I may be making too much of this, but, just trying to learn.

All the best,
Dan