Hi guys, I am thinking about trying oils on my next fig. I am an oil painter, landscapes, at least I try so I have all the paints and stuff. The question is drying time? I know oils can take forever to dry, how do you deal with this? Also are any mediums used when using oils? I have heard of putting th fig in a slow oven if you want it to dry faster? Is this method recommended? Not ready to give it a go yet just want to prepare myself for when I give it a try.

Thanks Tony

Hi Tony,
I use a drying box to speed up my oils. It works like a charm for me. Usually can get them dry in 12 hours or less.
Here's a link to a thread all about it...
drying box
I hope it helps you out.
Craig

Hello Tony,

I also get back to the oil paint. This because i like the satin look of the oils.
I also asked this some time ago on the planet. I have no time to surch the link.
Some people do it in a crockpot, untill today i do not know what it is.
Some people put it in the oven for overnight at 50 -60 degree Celcius.
I made a box off wood, almost such as Craig sayed before. I put a gluelamp in it from 100W, put my figure in it (about 15 cm under the lightbulb) and let it dry for overnight.
The next day i can paint further.
For blending i put some spots off the colour that i want, put the figure a half hour in the box and blend the colour in.
This works great for me.
Hope you getting somewhere with this.

Marc

hi Tony,
I used a small drying oven for years, it's ideal for quick drying and getting a nice even finish to the paint, especially with oils as they can be quite glossy
My only word of warning is to be careful with resin figures as prolonged heat can soften the resin and also epoxy glue bonds can become soft. I always leave a figure a few minuits after taking out of the heat box to allow any glued joints to re-harden. Good luck with the oils


mark

Hi Tony,

I think figures can be brougt to life when painted in oils. To control gloss and speed up drying time I do two things:

- use the oil color very sparingly (undercoat with the same color in acrylics or enamels) and thin it to almost milk consistency with a non-odor turpentine

- use a crock pot to dry - six hours at "low" with the top left adjar will do it.

DO NOT put your oils in the oven or any place you use to cook your food as they give off very toxic gasses that can stick tothe overn and get into your food.

Good luck and Happy Painting!

I built a box off of Craig's plans! It works great and keeps little fingers off the paint too!! Not to mention dust and speedy drying time!

Tony,
All good points from the above members, but I would ask that you look at one additional point in addition to heating...whenever I use oils, I lay them out on a 3x5 card, and allow the oil to seperate from the pigment. I'll let them stand for about 20mins or so, then all that is left on the card is the true pigment. That is what I then either apply or mix for the oil application.

Does that make sense?

Also, mixing the pigment with a little English Distilled Spirits improves the drying time and allows for a nice even application.

Good luck

Patrick

I base coat my figures with acrylics and mix as much as 50/50 with Winsor Newton Liquin to my oil paint. It is a gel like liquid made specifically for drying oils. For a few dollars a small bottle lasts a very long time. As well I use it to clean my brush before I use soap and water to clean my brush.

Hi Tony, if you want your oil paints to dry more reliably matt then soaking out some excess oil is well worth doing. Also use mineral spirits or OMS instead of turpentine, turps can enhance sheen.

Craig, if you're using Liquin as a first clean for your brushes may I recommend a cheaper alterative? Any common oil like corn, sunflower etc. can be used in the same way before the washing.

Einion

Thanks guys, As I said I am an oil painter, I can see why you would let the oil seep out before painting with it. As for Liquin, I have to give it a try, I think it would work good. I agree with Einion though, if you do not want to use solvents to clean brushes, any oil, linseed I use linseed sometimes, it's cheap.

Thanks Tony

I will use the cardboard to leach out some of the carrier. Careful not to overdo this as the results will be very grainy.

I have used the English Spritis as well. They are horrifically smelly and dangerous IMO. They do, however, cutr your drying time.

Build yourself a drying box. That, for me at least, has been the easiest to control.

Keith

A word of caution on Liquin. As you may know, it can make your oils dry with a satin or glossy finish - depending on amount used. Great for leather or metalics, but stay away from it if you are looking for a dead flat finnish.

Happy Painting.

Hi Pat, yes I agree. So if I use oils there would be no need for a flat coat? That would be great then I can do the whole job with a brush except for the prime.
As I said I am using Humbol's now, can I use Humbrol and oils on the same piece?

When I am finished with the Knight I am doing now I am going to try oils on a WW2 german officer I have see how it works out.

Thanks Tony

Yes, you can use enamels and oils on the same piece. You can even mix them together.

Some painters flat coat their oils to kill the residual sheen that can be left. I think that if you use the techniques mentioned above, you will not need a flat coat.

I don't use a flat coat because its not needed. Also, I have had trouble in the past with that process ruining the overall finish of m y piece. If you can avoid a flat coat, do so, is my best advice.

Happy Painting.

Tony,

Although everyone has pretty much answered your question, I use all of the techniques mentioned to make sure I get a dead matt finish (except on items like leather, etc). I usually place the oil on a piece of mattboard, let it sit until a good amount seeps out (you can tell, the "blob" of paint actually begins to go matt on the board). I then transfer it to a piece of waxpaper (anything I can be used I just use that for all my paint), and mix in some white/mineral spirits as Einion mentioned, and then paint. If I'm in a hurry I put it in the crockpot, if not, using the board/mineral combination it usually dires to the touch be the next morning anyway. I never use matt varnish due to some really bad experinces with it. I also usually pick out the highest highlights in acrylic anyway, which also deadens the surface.

Lou

Tony-

Some great responses, and as Lou said they all probably answer your question. You'll also notice that everyone has their favorite technique, but keeping your application very thin is most important. I'd like to add that I like using Grumbacher Medium #1 to thin oils, especially when I am doing fine details and need more viscosity. This usually dries matte and is much better for me than others, especially Liquin. Some oil colors dry more matte than others, but for the blues Indigo is a good base that tends to dry more matte. The Winsor and Newton Mars series (Brown, Orange, etc.) also are pretty good for drying flat. When I heat a figure I am constantly checking it and I don't let the temp go over 180 F.

I agree that adding a flat finish can quickly ruin a figure, but if used sparingly as a last resort in limited areas they can work well. I’ve found Floquil Figure flat to be pretty good, and it comes in a can for ease of application for large areas. For brushing small areas Polly S or Gunze Sangyo flat works for me. But I’m always reluctant to use these overcoats as they can really change the hue and values of the final finish. Use extreme caution and try several light coats. You also need to make sure the oils are as dry as possible before application. This may take several days, but will avoid problems.

I would agree, avoid unless necessary.

Soaking out excess oil (for most 'normal' brands of oil paint), applying them thinly and speed-drying with heat should all ensure a fairly uniform matt finish, particularly over a nice matt undercoat. After that it's just a question of adding gloss to leather, painted surfaces, skin etc. as needed.

Einion