Some stuff I use. Or lets go really low tech!
Besides the different types of paints and brushes I use, there are some more stuff I use. Small things that makes the painting a little easier, well for me anyway!
Once a figure has been washed in warm water with soap and completely dry it is time to prime it.
And here there a lot of choices! And opinions as well!
I have always preferred to prime a figure in a grey, kinda neutral, color. I really want a primer that will serve as a background for the colors to come and since I paint in a kind of low value/grey tones I find the grey primer really works for me.
It makes me inspired to add some paint to figure.
I personally never really liked white as it too harsh and it also reflect light a bit too much.
I know there a lot of brilliant painters who use black to prime their figures, and they do get wonderful results. Now the reason why I don´t use black is that, like white, it makes a bit difficult for me to see the figure and it details, and above all, to get inspired to paint it.
As with paints, and indeed as with brushes, use what makes you feel good, gives you a nice covering primer and most importantly, gives you inspiration to start the painting.
I have also found that when painting organic subjects like skin, leather, fur, and flesh I really like a grey primer (ochre would also be ok) as I find it easier to bring life to these areas with the painting to come. And for the same reason I do sometimes prime some metal parts (sword blades, helmets, etc) in black as these are non organic parts and can be approached in a different way.
Sounds a bit over the top and over complicated?
Well maybe, but it works for me. And most importantly, it inspires me to start the painting.
I prefer to prime using a spray primer and lately I have been using Scale 75 Grey primer with good results, it dries pretty fast and gives a flat surface that covers well.
Ready to go low tech? Ok. For a palette I use masking tape added to a cutting matt or a wood plate. And this really works for me, I can add more paint mixes to dried ones on the palette and see how they work together, as opposed to a wet palette were the paint mixes are pretty much wet all the time. Now I know that there a lot of you guys out there using wet palettes and getting great results, but I just prefer to use the masking tape.
It works for me, it helps me and it inspires me seeing the paint mixes on my palette.
I also use a plastic pallet and I do use these on occasion when I want large quantity of a color I mixed up, the little cup will keep the larger amount wet for a longer time. But this is really more for having a consistent base color, the actual highlight and shadow mixes are done on the now-famous-low-tech masking tape palette!
I also use a helping hand with a magnifying glass when I paint (and sculpt). I like using this, it´s like enlarging a photo you have taken. You can more easily see the mistakes and if looks good under the magnifying glass, it will look even better without it. It works for me For wiping the brush I use these serviettes made for cleaning babies, they work great as they have no fibrers coming off, and they a really cheap to buy as well.
It all comes down to what works for you. What makes the painting be more easy and fun. What inspires you to start the painting.
What you choose.
Stay safe, keep healthy and take care
Mike

Thanks for adding the photos my friend !
Mike

I have to say that I have similar experience, and coming at painting figures from the broader area of scale modeling, it took me a while to think of using a bigger brush. For example, painting an instrument panel in 1/48 or even 1/72, with enamels, I looked for the smallest brushes I could. They just needed to hold the tiniest bit of paint to deposit on the piece. It seemed counterintuitive to me, to use a larger brush. Then it clicked-it's the tip, the tip provides the precision. And the body holds the paint, that flows to the tip. I thought of a fountain pen. And then I realized what Mike and others say about the brush.

Prost!
Brad

I'd concur with a lot of this.
One thing I'd add is - be prepared to change. After being an oils man, even I've been doing lots in acrylics recently. It's about getting the desired result.

With brushes, a top brush will not make you a great painter, but you'll never a great painter without a top brush. Look after them and they'll look after you. Keep an eye out for when a brush starts to go. Be prepared to ditch it before it becomes worse than useless.

Yes, changes are good, healthy and sometimes even necessary. I started out with Humbrols, which I used for many years and whilst I felt the results were ok, I still felt the need to improve, to go forward and to try new things. And I did. But it was a slow process over several years, I made the changes because I wanted and did it in my own way in my own time. And I have never regretted it. We all feel a bit stuck sometimes, feeling that we are not moving forward. A new figure, a new paint or a new brush might be the right thing to do here. I will always try to test new materials, some you may like, some you will throw away but some you may love, so never be afraid to try something new. I still learn and try out new things. And I always will.

I either undercoat in Humbrol grey or sand/desert yellow. I keep white undercoat for those figures which have white uniforms.

Mike

Sand color is a great choice for undercoating
Have you tried it for the white uniformed figures as well, Mike?
Mike

Not if I'm after a parade finish, but have done for figures in the field.

Mike

I use Vallejo colours, deck tan 986 as a base coat, then 918 Ivory as a highlight and German beige 821 as a shade. for the extreme highlights I will use pure white. All are diluted with water.