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Priming plastic figures

Discussion in 'General Figure Talk' started by mikec55, May 17, 2021.

  1. mikec55 PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    United-States
    I'm hoping to work on some plastic kits soon. I can start with one of the Masterbox Indian kits or maybe the Warhammer chaos giant. I haven't painted anything in forever so my questions are, would it be best to partially assemble either of these before painting?
    I'll be using Tamiya Cement. Does it work fast? I've only ever used 5 minute epoxy on my metal or resin figures which always seemed to take longer than 5 minutes.
    Is it necessary to prime plastic figures before painting?
    If my results are anything above mediocre, I'll post a picture or 2.
    Thanks in advance for your help.
  2. Waterlooman A Fixture

    Hi, I use Revell Contacta Professional glue - it uses a fine metal tube not unlike a needle for fine application, I also use a hairdryer as this not only softens the glue so it adherers better - but it also then acts like hot glue and goes off real quick - just be careful not to melt the plastic though (the timing of this come with practice).
    With the primer - it is advisable as it acts as a bond between the surface and the paint - many different makes of primer out there - because I like to brush paint and like a Black layer down first for edge details - I use Vallejo Black Acrylic Surface Primer.

    Hope this helps a bit.

    W.
    Nap likes this.
  3. Nap Moderator

    Country:
    England
    Hi Mike

    Do you mean hard plastic figures , definately wash all figures before any primer is applied , member Ken Boyle is a star with Masterbox figures , drop him a PM

    I would have thought a good contact cement would be fine ....I paint only busts !

    Sorry can't help further

    Happy priming , look forward to seeing results ....PF is for all levels of painters

    Happy benchtine

    Nap
  4. Blind Pew A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Mike, welcome. There is no such thing as a mediocre figure. As long as you enjoyed doing it.

    Assembly - do a dry run. If you reckon you can apply and control the paint well enough, then build it. Be realistic. If not, do it in sub-assemblies.

    Primer - there are dozens of good primers out there. If in doubt, a spray of car body primer from what you probably call an 'auto parts shop' will most likely be okay and shouldn't cost the earth.
    Good luck and share the results...(y)
    Nap likes this.
  5. mikec55 PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    United-States
    Good advice. My thanks to all. Between working and babysitting grandkids, it'll take me awhile to produce something but I'll post results at some point.
    Thanks again.
    Nap and Waterlooman like this.
  6. samson Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Having not painted anything in a few years having said that I did build plastic kits such as Aurora and hawk kits I used tamiya glue both the orange cap thicker and the green cap thin glues they work great push the pieces together tightly and it will make seam filling much easier . Search you tube for vids on the right way to use the glue . And for primer I used tamiya fine primer in cans both gray and white . They cost more than the bigger cans of primer but they are very fine primer . Also more light coats of whatever primer you choose instead of a thick one won’t hide the details on the kit . You tube has a lot of good videos to watch . Hope this helps some. Rob. Looking forward to your work
    Nap, Blind Pew and Waterlooman like this.
  7. theBaron A Fixture

    Country:
    United-States
    I'll add my mustard...

    It's probably better to ask which is easier and which you prefer, because there's not a right or wrong way, necessarily. I will assemble as much as I can and still be able to reach parts or areas with as little trouble as possible. I'll leave off those bits that I wouldn't otherwise be able to reach, or, those pieces that are easier to work with separately. Maybe I'll leave off the head, for example, to keep it on a toothpick or skewer to hold it. It can depend very much on the piece, its size or scale, and the number of parts.

    If the kit is styrene, then I definitely use glue formulated for attaching styrene to styrene. It creates a weld bond along the join. I don't use CA glue or epoxy glue for joining styrene to styrene.

    Tamiya's liquid cements are very good, and yes, they set relatively quickly. The extra-fine formula is good for flowing into a seam via capillary action, and it provides a strong bond. I use it on styrene figures, and models. The weld action provides one way of addressing seams: you flow the glue into it, then apply gentle pressure along the join. The melted plastic will bead along or around the seam. When it sets, you can remove that bead with a sharp knife, and the seam is basically filled. It reduces the need to use putty to fill the seams, and also, it makes it easier if you have to sand.

    Testor also makes a liquid cement that is very good, as are the glues from Evergreen and Plastruct. I used those, when I first started working with liquid styrene cements. But I "graduated" to Tamiya's product.

    Another question that doesn't have an absolute right or wrong, though I think most painters would say they would prime. I always do. Priming serves two functions, at least.

    It helps improve adhesion, giving your paint a surface it can adhere to, especially if you use water-based acrylics. Their chemical formula is generally such that they don't "bite" well on a bare plastic surface. Enamels and lacquers are hotter, chemically, and can "bite" into the plastic better.

    The other function is that priming allows you to check the figure for defects-seams, nicks, etc-in the surface, before you start laying down your color coats.

    Another function priming can server is to provide an undercoat of color, for your color coats. For example, if you have a figure with a white uniform, a light-colored primer can help make the color coats lighter or brighter. And a dark primer can tone the color down and make it darker.

    I always prime my figures, whether styrene, resin, or white metal. Same goes for my model kits, for the same reasons. I use Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer, but there are many, very good products out there.

    Also, I clean the kit parts before starting. This is a step that is not universal, either, but I find it doesn't cost me anything to do it. I use a baking dish of warm water, and add a couple drops of a de-greasing agent. Some use dishwashing liquid, which has mild de-greasers. I used to, but I switched to the automotive de-greaser, SuperClean.

    This step helps remove any remaining mold release compounds, skin oil, and other schmutz, before you start working with the parts.

    I hope this all helps, prosit!
    Brad
  8. mikec55 PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    United-States
    Thanks Rob and Brad. Lots of helpful information there, some of which I haven't considered til now.

    Mike

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