well...

for starters I knew to modelling in general..

any suggestions for this ?

(For anything , painting , building , putting them together.. sorry if I couldn't give any clear indictors)

Well, there's so much to know, one could write a book about it

Seriously, here's my own mustard, influenced by the late Shep Paine:

Start with a good casting. A bad paint job can make a good figure look bad, but a good paint job can't make a bad figure look good. When I say, "good casting", I mean, one with crisp details, good and natural proportions, and no flaws from casting, like short-shots, figures distorted because of too much pressure on the mold, things like that. Today, quality is generally higher than it was years ago, but errors can happen. Inspect the figure carefully and look for things like that.

I clean my figures before beginning painting, whether resin, white metal, or styrene. I do this with scale model kits, too. Cleaning consists of using warm water and a degreasing agent-dishwashing liquid is common; I use a couple drops of SuperClean, an automotive degreaser. Cleaning removes any residue from mold release agents and any other schmutz that might be on the surface. Again, years ago, the release agents used were more likely to leave a residue; today, things seem to have improved. Some painters (and modelers) don't bother with this step. I do, as my preference.

Inspect the figure for things that need addressing, particularly mold parting lines. Those are lines that follow the seams between the two halves (or more pieces) of a mold. And again, today, this isn't as big an issue as it once was. But it's still generally a good idea to look for seams and clean them up. Cleaning could be sanding with fine sandpaper, scraping with a knife blade, using fine files.

Now we're ready for assembly. Do a test-fitting (again-true with figures, and with scale models), look for fit, good or poor. Are there places where you'll need to fill seams or gaps? Are there parts you can assemble, that won't interfere with painting other details (like a backpack on a soldier)? Are parts keyed, with a lug on one part and a hole, slot, etc on the other side of the mating surface? Are there joins that would benefit from pinning to strengthen them? Some figures are engineered with two flat surfaces forming the join; those are definitely joins that I would pin for assembly. Or a head to the torso-is it cast with a lug to fit into a hole in the torso? Is it two flat mating surfaces? I drill holes and use fine wire as pins to strengthen the join. And I prefer to use 2-part, 5-minute epoxy glues to assemble my metal and my resin figures. Many use cyano-acrylate (CA) glue (aka SuperGlue, Krazy Glue), but I find that 2-part epoxies are stronger over time. If the figure is styrene, then I use styrene glue, because it's formulated to create a weld bond. It melts the plastic at the join, and as it cures, the plastic welds together. CA glue just sticks the pieces together, no weld bond, and any shock, like tipping over, can break the CA bond.

Assemble as much as you think you can or want to, without making it hard to paint surrounding details. Fix seams with putty, clean up some more.

Now you're ready for paint-primer. Priming serves a couple of purposes. First, a primer coat promotes better adhesion of your finish color coats that go over it. Second, a primer coat can reveal flaws you didn't spot before. That lets you go back and fix them before painting. Many flaws, if left unaddressed, will show up and ruin your finish coat.

Once primed, you can start applying your color coats. I generally follow the sequence of painting a figure from the inside out, just like dressing. But there are variations, and again, it's more a preference, what works best for any given modeler, than a right or wrong.

Assemble more bits as necessary, and paint till you're satisfied with your results.

That's a long-enough post, so I won't get into more detail about painting techniques, choice of tools, especially brushes, basing figures, etc, etc. I'm sure you'll get plenty of replies on all of these subjects, and as many flavors of reply as there are respondents.

Prost!
Brad

"And one more thing..." ("Sucker Punch" reference)
I mentioned Shep Paine. It is worth it to find copies of his book, "Building and Painting Scale Figures", and "How to Build Dioramas." There are many books out there, but I think Shep covered the fundamentals very well, and other books really just go over the same ground. He was the Master.

Prost!
Brad

Thank you

A brilliant executive summary to the question by Brad.

Gary