This has probably been done but I thought I'd do it anyway.

I like NMM even though it can be a pain to do convincingly, so what do others on PF prefer, ???

did you ever seen them from real?great in picture and often very bad from real

Interesting.....

Viewing distance is important I think.

I like NMM braid but swords not so sure.

Prefer metallics

I'm actually trying a combination of both.

interesting thread
here are two pictures taken from my WIP I have just posted
first picture is showing the metals done with metallics (shaded with matte paints)
while on the second one, the metals were redone in NMM

why this change ? because my first rendition was missing something, that only NMM can give you in pictures and in real..
that something is the possibility to go from pure white to pure black with non metallic paints and trick the eye in giving the illusion of a metallic surface, any metallic surface. Also, you decide where the highlights will be and every reflection, so you have more latitude in your rendering. Now I am now saying it is easy (and true metallics are not either) but they are worth trying one day.

I would always favour metallic. After all, the original was made of metal, so why not paint that? Having said that, I always use ink or oil washes over the original to reduce brightness and give the effect of wear.

I prefer metallics. NMM look fine from one viewpoint, but if the figure is 3D, the shadows, highlights, etc should change as the viewpoint changes. Just my two penn'th

Metallics are an easier proposition for sure. Simulating metal requires a lot of skill but is nonetheless a serious temptation. I can't remember where this link
was suggested to me ( it might have been from someone here ) but I've found it very useful..... perhaps you might like to check it out.

http://surfacefragments.blogspot.com/2012/10/how-old-masters-created-look-of-gold-in.html

Mike

Yes I saw that link, very involved however it is in my VERY humble opinion worth the effort.....

You can always go over with some matalics if your not happy.

Hi Malc

Back in the day (the time of the Pharisees) I mixed appropriate sintered metal powder to oil paint and then burnished with a little graphite
dust to enhance the specularity - a technique I've continued to use over 50 years. Recently, though, I've been attempting to create non-metallic
effects. It''s something that works comfortably enough when painting illustrations, but as Valiant says can be difficult on three dimensional
figures. Still, time will tell. Perseverance... eh ?

Mike

I still have some of the old gold paints from the 70s produced by Rose. You mixed flakes of gold paint into a varnish medium and applied. Anyone else remember these?

I have silver.

Agreed.

Yes, I still have some.

Does anyone actually still use them?

Rose Gold Powders

I used to use these all the time for buttons, badges and sword hilts etc. And still would if you could get them. My last lot were in the flat brown bottles and a little went a very long way. I used to use the Rose paints as well. But that's all gone now...

I still prefer metal powder for painting metals. They are usually called "Bronze Powders" and you can get them from various art suppliers. I like to use Roberson Bronze Powders which I buy from Cornelissen in London. You'll need a medium for the powder to make paint. I don't know what the Rose medium was but I always guessed that it was Japan Gold Size, which has been used in gold leaf work for years. Japan Gold Size is slow drying, which is supposed to be a good thing for metallic paint as it allows the metal particles to rise to the surface as the paint dries.

Well indeed, don't ask me. All I know is that it makes a bright metallic finish which dries overnight and stays bright.

Nowadays, I use Winsor and Newton Japan Gold Size. Dip your brush into the size then dip it into the powder. Slosh the brush around on your palette to mix into a metallic paint. Lovely stuff.

Video for using bronze powders: