Hey Guys,

I have just finished Andrea Miniatures EK Series 1/16th D.A.K. Panzer Soldier (Which I posted on the forum for completed figures, check it out !) I was planning on starting a Vietnam Vignette using 2 Bravo 6 figures and the converted M54A2 AFV Club Truck into a M52 Tractor using Real Model resin conversion, some DEF Resin Wheels, and some goodies, but Post office delayed that for some 2 weeks, and I decided to give this bust a go while I wait for the other project parts to arrive.

This is one of the most expressive figure faces I have ever seen, and It's a true pleasure to paint it. So many details on his battle worn face. I hope to do it justice, but also this has to be a quicker than usual build for me, since I am on a schedule. But Surely I will have fun.

So, I began priming :



I use Tamiya's spray primer for metal parts, and then I spray over that my Favourite primer, from Stynylrez, so it will all match for primer color after. I really don't like metal medium to work with, but we can't scape that sometimes. I will soon try the new Metal Prep product from VMS Poland, in which will help metal parts becoming damaged or nicked. Can't wait for that.

Some more detail :



The helmet is a work of art, with amazing texture. There's a technique for metal parts such as the helmet or the metal armour he is wearing that consists of polishing the parts and giving the weathering on the actual metal, so you get the natural metal shine and looks, but if not properly protected it will show some discoloured areas, just like when they arrive from factory. So I decided to paint all the metal looks, using Alclad Pale Gold for the golden areas and Vallejo Acrylic Metal color range for the steel areas. I used "Steel" color for the base color, and added chipping and sponge techniques with Semi - Dull Aluminum and Silver, also a little bit of Magnesium, just to give some color depth. After that I weathered using just a mix of VMS pigments and using their Enamel Binder 2.0, then manipulating with a brush on Odourless thinner and a cotton swab to clean the excess and have it where I wanted. The weathering is just pigments and binders. I also made some subtle rust effects using the same VMS binder with rust pigments. Some streaks and accumulations.
After dry I gave a dilluted hand of AK Enamel Wash (Dark Brown) to give it some extra layer of "grime" and after, a little polishing with my own t-shirt for the center areas.

This is how it looks :







Close Up :



Now working the sword, used Vallejo Metal Colors once again, Vallejo Khaki for the handle with filters, and Polly S colors for the sword "sheath". Did some scratching by hand to simulate wear and tear and some glazing for lights and shadows. The sword metal areas are weathered the same as the helmet, with VMS pigments and Binder.



Now, began base sking tone, with Tamiya XF-15 "Flesh". After will get to my Abteuling 502 oil paint process on top.



Let me know your comments so far !
Best
Julian

Awesome. Following with interest.

Excellent meatalics on the helmet, beautifully done. Following.

Off to a great start, metallics looking good.
TERRY

Good job so far,nice metallics. A very nice bust, I prefer head and shoulders to half figure.
Bill

Nice stuff Julian

Thanks guys. Soon more photos

How do you like the meng drill ..I think is on your work area...I just got one and it’s definitely best I’ve tried

I love it too. I did a full review for the Blog, which should be up once Michtoy re-stock them, as they sold out fast.
The drills are super sharp and extra strong (nothing like Tungsten, right ?).
I fount it easy to switch bits, maybe faster that the “regular” bits.
They are drilling metal and resin here and all good so far.

Superb metal work.Look forward to seeing him progress.

Thank you ! I can't live without Vallejo Metal Color range

Great paint job, kudos!
Also I am a fan of the Vallejo Metal Colors, they are really great! And also I have this bust and it will be soon in my painting pipeline, so I follow your updates.
Cheers
Luciano

Thanks Bud ! What impresses me is that they behave like Alclad, but can be hand brushed. These are all hand brushed metal colors, and the gold is the airbrushed Alclad.
They also serve greatly as a metal base for chipped paint, they are very resistant. I did a small review and test with them x Alclad x Gunze Metallic x Tamiya Enamels, and they are by far the best.

Based on that I best try them. Thanks gents

Beautiful work Julian! As others have said, the metal work on the helmet is fantastic. I also really appreciate the SBS details.

Cheers,
Ken

Hey guys,

Started working the skin, highlights & shadows, neck veins, and the fresh wounds. The lips also.
My bench photos are saturated because of the strong warm light and iPhone camera. This is all too orange and the lip color and general glossy areas will tone down after a week or so. This is Abteilung 502 oils mix over Tamiya XF-15 Flesh (airbrushed). After a few more days I will add some wound-red areas around the bruises. Now just have to wait a week or so to dry. I don't use any kind of additive or accelerator for my oil process. I add Liquin to my lip mix just to have a bit more shine than the rest of the skin, as we usually do in our lips.

Also might add blood running down on one of the bruises.

Since my method does not use extreme contrast, this is about as much as I will go in highlights and shadows, but after 5-7 days I will give it a fresh look. Under natural light it looks great in scale.

I will leave it on top of my WIFI Router on a foam to speed up the drying process. Apple Airport Extreme is good for modelling too

Very useful SBS, thanks for taking the time to post it, watching with great interest.
TERRY

Oils is almost dried now, to expand the bruised area a little. Added a subtle "tired red" below the eyes.

Photos on the window makes better color rendition for the skin tones, better than the previous ones at the bench.

A couple more days to fully dry, sitting on top of my WIFI router

Abteilung 502 oils has the best quality pigments of all oil paints I have used in those 15 years. They are a step above, specially when it comes to modelling products, but as I used Rembrandt for a decade, they are superior also for those artists brands.
The lip color is stiill Rembrandt (Rose madder Antique) since Abt. only has a "Coagulated Blood" color, in which I did the bruises. They need to expando the color range a little.

As I mentioned, I don't like to enforce lights and shadows too much on the skin tones and overall painting of any figure. I like this subtle appearance, more natural and reslistic, and leave natural light make the shadows and highlights, as you can see. Also, oils finish off in a very natural sheen for the skin tone, giving the flesh a depth away from the fabrics and other areas. It's important to have distinct shines and textures for each material. Wood can't have the same finish as fabric, nor the hair to the skin and weapons. Varnish is a crime sometimes. I use zero varnishes on this figure so far, and the only area I might use it is the main jacket, if it turns too glossy while painting. Otherwise, each area will have it's own sheen.

Super work Julian, love the helmet, I did similar on mine but used neat Artist's oils stippled on to give added texture, but like your way.

I shall be following with interest.

Geoff

Fantastic work so far Julian.