Hi, Ron. Up until, you gave the fantastic tip of the, 'Make-up brush!... I also used 'Kolinsky' Sable's..... Bloody! expensive though!... and they don't seem to be able to take that much punishment, before the dreaded 'Shredding'.... So! have been buying all sorts of 'Synthetic-brushes', that do seem to have that much more Longevity. What is your prefered type? and/or make. ... Just being nosey!

Mark

That's very generous of you Ron. I'd appreciate that very much, in the mean time I look forward to following your thread.

Hi Mark, I have a set of series 7 brushes that i cherish for fine detail and they are Kolinsky. Other than that one set I have a jar of brushes that is a mixture of good quality sable and synthetics. One set of synthetics usually lasts me about 4 busts and the sables will be good for at least 7 busts. However, I will use a brush until it splays, then it is re-cut and used for 'scrub' coats or stippling. When it can't be used for either purpose I cut off the remaining hairs and use it for mounting pieces on for painting.

Ron

Hi Mark(S), no problem. I have started to put a written description of the thread together for you in a basic "step 1, step 2" layout and will number the accompanying pictures that correspond to each step for easy cross reference. Hope that will provide you with an easy way to grasp this technique.

Regards

Ron

Ron,.. I also have a number of series 7, ... and I also trim, the splayed edges, then 'Clip', the top, for dry-brushing, and then ultimately stripping.... Then mixing, then as a prop!... I feel better now. I thought, Mark, stop being a cheap-skate!

Mark

How else you gonna feed that growing grey army.

Ron

One other tip regarding brushes, for metallics I always use synthetics as they hold the paint better and resist the courser pigment which will take the point off a sable very quickly.

Ron

That is a very handy tip!. .. As I use Humbrol 'Metalcote', a fair bit, but try to minimise brush strokes!.. So I usually go for the softer type sable brush!.... That will save a fair few quid. Thanks Ron! .... Oh, don't mention the 'Grey'!! now that I have found the camera, and figured out the upload sequence!.. I will be selling. what stuff that is of now of little interest, or that I can no longer use effectivly, because of my 'Duff-Hands'.. Otherwise I will spend years looking at them and thinking 'Maybe later',..... .

Mark

Brush marks and metalcote go together if it is not mixed enough, too thick or old. It also dries fairly quick in the brush which tears the hairs of sable.

Ron

Yes, Ron, I have noticed that, .. and tried to buff-the strokes out!.. But the brush bears the brunt of it, as you say!

Mark

Its all in a days fun Mark ****

Mark have you tried the new Humbrol Metalcote spray cans?

Do you buff these up as like the brush version Jimmy

Ron

Ron T, isn't it just....
Jimmy S. Handy tip, could you , Pm me with the details! of this stuff?.. sounds interesting!

Mark

Back to the serious stuff Ron
Handling the colour white with this method,I have had some success with high relief stuff such as plumes
but han't tried on general clothing capes breeks ect.
your thoughts and experiences here ?

Will continue with the Ron T signature to save confusion

Metal cote , destroyer of sable is its proper name .
Have you noticed they have changed it ,I had an old tin of the stuff which was much smoother and didn't leave brush marks and thinned nicely with turps and mixed with oils also, but Humbrol have been meddling with there paints on and off for years, in its original form it was wonderful stuff even up to the authentic colour years.

Ron T

Metalcote works best if airbrushed on, so when buffing it doesnt highlight any brushstrokes.

Theres a better product out now by MR Hobby, Buffable metalics, this stuff lays down ace by brush if Airbrushing is a problem. Check out MDC in the UK for the range.

Carlos

Ron the bench is looking more girly than ever Hair dryer, Hairspray, nail files/buffable polishers, false nail CA ... theres no way im adding the make up brushs !

Ron T, with this method whites are much more fun. I use a 'scrub' coat of a suitable shadow colour and thin it back. Then I brush in mids and thin back. For the highs I add a hint of the colour that is next to the white, (in the surrounding area) and draw that across the tops of the folds etc. In this way you can do a lot of the work very quickly and, once dry, you can work in any other colours for effect by going over the top of the others and again thinning back till it becomes transparent again.
It is all about allowing the underlying colours to come through, which does the blending for you. Yellow and red are handled in the same way.

Ron

Hi Carlos, nice tip about the spray Metalcote and Mr Hobby. Funny how these girlie products are creeping into painting arenas. Mate of mine, having watched me work with the brushes and sponges, is now using them on his kits. Clever sod struck a deal with his wife by saying he would pay for hers if she got his. Seriously mate, they really work, and I could post them to you in a plain brown envelope.

Ron

Jimmy S, thanks for the heads-up on Metalcote aerosols.

Ron