Each year I go to Euro Militaire, and get so excited and inspired by the awesome painting, I find myself having to purchase some of these larger scale figures and give them a try, I've failed so far but am hoping you guys can help me get things right this year.
I'm used to painting 28mm tabletop miniatures, so this will be a great leap of faith for me.

BASING
I purchased a basic MDF Andrea plinth base, (which I must say is finished off beautifully), to put him on, not thinking how I would achieve this. I want to have the figures face facing forward, which will require a bit of messing about.
Question : Should I saw off the bits that protrude out from the main plinth, and paint the edges black so it fits nicely on the base?
I'm going to try and make the wall look like the box photo (which it doesn't) with brick pattern courses in stone and maybe granite/stone paviours on the floor.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Mark

I would definately cut the supplied groundwork back to fit the plinth or build a new wall to suit.

Thanks Jon, and Carl, I've just cut it, nice bases though and alot cheaper, i'll remember next time

My Advice would be to buy a bigger base to fit the basework provided, either chippy or Ron Tamburrini will be able to make a nice base to the exact size you require, the wall can be placed at an angle to achieve the stance you want and the paving extended with Milliput or something similar.
Where are you based by the way?
Keith

Too late just seen your post, hit the ground just as I posted my reply

I'm based in Dover Kent, just up the road from Historex and 7 miles from Euro. I think I will plan my next project better, keep the advice coming, i'll be needing plenty Cheers
Mark

I managed to cut the base walling without chopping the kitchen worktop and milliputed all over to get a surface. My first attempt at this and I'm very happy with it, well untill I prime and notice what a mess it is by accident the milliput dried quickly (it was an old batch) and it helped me get some detail in it. I will tidy up and milliput the cloak at his shoulder, and waist next.
Question : What do I use to polish the metal surface prior to priming it?
When milliputing the top of the plinth do you leave a gap like I have done or take it to the edge?

Hi Mark,
You could use a small soft brass wire brush, wire wool, for Dremel type drills you can get nylon and brass wheels as long as you are not too aggressive. The cut down looks good as does the miliput skimming.
cheers
Richie

That looks great, nicely done on extending the groundwork.

I mostly use an old suede brush for this, along with a bit of smoothing using fine steel wool (0000 grade) where it'll reach. Any finer brass- or bronze-bristled brush can be used similarly to a suede brush.

Either one. Usually I like the groundwork to butt right up to the edge but sometimes I think it looks nice stepped back a little as you've done.

Einion

Thanks chaps, i'll see if I can get some of the wire wool and a brass brush, I'm a bit worried that I might loose some of the detailing as its very fine.

Cheers Carl. I'll do a test piece on the cloak first.
Mark

If you want to err on the side of caution while still cleaning off the casting surface consider scrubbing it with Cif and a stiff toothbrush.

Excluding any areas around seams which get worked on by default you don't of course have to do anything to the surface - many modellers don't, and never wash or otherwise clean castings either.

Einion

I just found a brass drill bit in a modeller set I bought and never used, it seems to have made the surface shiny and exposed a couple of areas that needed work. Do I wash after its all dried? I think I read to use alchohol?? or just washing up liquid.

If you've been handing the figure without gloves it's advisable yes.

Washing in warm soapy water (don't forget to rinse) is probably the most reliable way to clean off any grease that might be present on the surface but you can use a solvent like meths or acetone, long as you bear in mind that you're trying to remove it, not just spread it around.

Hairdryer! Should be one on hand for any acrylic user anyway; life's too short to be waiting for each layer to dry naturally

If you think about it there shouldn't be any left after abrading the surface.

Einion

You can also use very fine grade wet and dry to clean up any flash/mould lines and prep the surface,it also is great for white metal armour to shine it prior to using a gloss black and varnish coat to show as polished steel like I did on the Hinchcliffe Gothic Knight here

Steve