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I need some help sculpting THIN things.

Discussion in 'Sculpting' started by smeagolthevile, Feb 22, 2012.

  1. smeagolthevile Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Ok, so I'm attempting to sculpt a cowboy hat, something simple that I should beable to do with no problem...

    the problem I'm coming across is when I start to manipulate the clay once I have it in an oval it just rips at the slightest touch. Its wet reaching the level of soggy and so are my fingers so its not that. I dont know if the clay is bad or i'm doing something wrong, but I just spent a half an hour on what should have taken 30 seconds and I am EXTREMELY frustrated at the moment with it.
  2. gordy Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Long time no see! Let's start with what type of clay are you using ?
  3. outrunthedogs Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Not sure what you are using to sculpt with but I use two part epoxy putty like Milliput or A+B and I find that after rolling out the putty, letting it set up for 20-30 minutes makes it less fragile and more forgiving when working with. I am kind of new to the sculpting side of the hobby and am not an authority by an means but I hope this helps!
    gordy likes this.
  4. valiant A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    i use thin foil sheet (from the top of a coffee tin) as a support, then apply the milliput/duro onto that. it provides enough support without making the brim too thick
    Steve
  5. Einion Well-Known Member

    That is the problem.

    After cutting to shape, try waiting until the putty is towards the end of the hardening phase - at least an hour or so, depending on the epoxy you're working with and the temperature - using talc as a lubricant, not water.

    Einion
  6. smeagolthevile Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Ahh ok, so I should wait a bit...

    I am using miliput as my medium.

    my problem with rolling it is I have no idea how to keep it from earing appart as I remove it from the surface it is on.

    Edit:
    Also, another issue I have is that it sits on the back of the thing im making it for's head, not on top, so I need the clay to fit snuggly against the head, how can I really go about doing this? Should I leave a hole in the center of the clay, sculpt the brim, then put fresh clay in the hole once its dried and use that to form fit?
  7. housecarl Moderator

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Mix it, leave it 15-20 minutes(depending on room temp). Loads of talc on the board and roller, the you should be good to go.
    Carl.
  8. theBaron A Fixture

    Country:
    United-States
    Einion, water can be used to smooth Miliput, though, can't it? Just the barest touch of it, not even a full drop.
  9. housecarl Moderator

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Use a dampened paintbrush.
    Carl.
  10. smeagolthevile Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Ok, well, I did what was suggested, plus what I thought I would try. I used a bit of plastic wrap (to not damage the piece) and rolled the clay out into the size then cut the edges to be the right shape. I then cut a hole in the center and let it dry a bit. I then put it onto the piece and formed it how I wanted, so far it worked great! I just need some more practice with it.

    I may as well tell you what im attempting to do. The My little Pony 'blind bag' toys do not have the cowboy hat for the Apple Jack figure.
    [IMG]

    This is what she should have

    [IMG]

    I am not the only one that wants one of these hats, I actually have people willing to pay me for one, so I am making ones for myself first so I can get them nice and accurate.
  11. Einion Well-Known Member

    Talc again, you want there to be no grab at all between the putty and the working surface, particularly if you're working with the putty rolled out extremely thin, and talc can ensure that. Another option to mention is deliberately working more thickly that you want the finished piece to be, to make the rolled putty more robust during handling. Once it has fully cured you carve/scrape/sand to thin it down, and users of Milliput value it for how good it is in this respect.

    If you have any Kneadatite you could also try a blend with the mixed Milliput, it'll make it a lot more user-friendly for a task like this (more flexible + better cohesion).

    Einion
  12. smeagolthevile Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Despite what I do the edges always seem to tear or crack, if even lightly. I will try to either do it a bit thicker when I do it next. One issue I have come across is that the figure I am going to make making these to sell to friends... are 1/2 the size of the one I am working on and having these issues.
  13. valiant A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Just to reitterate my previous post, try using a thin foil support, then lay rolled out milliput/duro over that. I had the same dilemma when I produced my ANZAC bust last year (look at my avatar!) - this was my solution, as the brim was very delicate - hope this helps!
    Steve
  14. smeagolthevile Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I was unsure about that, do you put the clay on both sides, or on just the bottom of it?
  15. housecarl Moderator

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Make life easier. Cut a disc out of plastic card, heat it hot water, then manipulate to what you want. It might take a couple of goes to get the desired shape.
    Carl.(y)
  16. smeagolthevile Member

    Country:
    United-States
    I would but I do not have any spare plastic that is thin enough to manipulate... Ill keep trying with the clay.
  17. valiant A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Thats what i did -roll out some duro as thin as possible (dust with talc to stop roller sticking) then add to both sides of the foil -you can then taper the edge to fool the eye to make it appear thinner than it actually is!

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