Why not as the Germans did? Red oxide ( Floquil Railroad colors?) would be good base for chipping topcoat of acrylics etc? I have used this in 1/35 armour. Les

Not used Hycote for years, but Floquil is good thru the airbrush and I have found it gives extremely good results with salt and hairspray technique for the reasons Les pointed out.
Progress is sweet Dave.

I stand corrected Carl, it must be another Carl who is the Halfords fan, sorry mate.

Cheers

Ron

Thanks for your help guys.

Is this stuff in a can or a bottle? if it's in a can do you simply spray some in to a pot and add thinners before adding to the airbrush??

Sorry for the silly questions but I am new to the Airbrush scene, although having done some practicing I'm not bad with it

I have taken the cross bar off for now as the spare track links are too tight so will do some jiggery pokery to get it right. I am awaiting the track holders for the side of the turret before finishing the Zim.

I'll fix the back now and start with the improvements tonight.

I think I prefer to spray it on as it is such a large model. Not sure if the Floquil Red Oxide is readily available in the Uk having done a quick google.

How about a generic Tamiya primer (hull red)???

Cheers Carl

Started to improve the area's at the back of the hull. I have to admit that some of it will be difficult to see, but if it can be seen...................!!

The rear light on the right needs removing and the one that remains on the left needs a bit of a makeover. The starter just needed a little extra detail, and the jack parts are about half way there.

The Bar at the bottom has been totally re-done and will replace the moulded effort.

A better pic of the cross member for the spare track links which now fit perfectly:-

Hi Dave,
I keep dropping in to check on your progress, very nice work by the way. I know Windsor & Newton do a very nice Red Iron Oxide. Did you pick up that SS Panzer figure!
cheers for now.
Richie

Hi Dave, the Floquil red oxide is in a bottle and sprays well straight without thinning. Cheers Les

Hi Carl, it's the starter handle, there are a few variances but settled on this design.

Les, thanks for your help mate, I'll see if I can source some.

Rich, thanks for your support.

I'll check out the W & N oxide, as for the figures, well no purchases yet as concentrating 100% on the Tiger.

I'll probably get the figures in a couple of months though.

Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave, looking really fine mate. Got me thinking of attacking a 1/4 scale figure project
I have in stock with all this detail work your doing. Hmmmm.... !!!

Cheers

Ron

1/4 scale

Go for it and get a Vbench going mate, I'm glad I am inspiring you to do something

Rcvd the pins for spare track links tonight so got them fixed and one side of the turret complete with Zim. You need to make sure they are level with a bit of measuring etc.

I will give the Zim a slight sanding once dry (very wet at the moment):-

Just added the clamps for the tow cables. They are made out of lumps of scrap resin and filed to shape. I used my Ipod to get a good pic, although the 321 has slightly different fixings with one end being slightly lower and a rod fixed in to accept a wing nut.

I will add the plates and wing nuts later (marked in Red), spare track links fit nicely and today will be about finishing the Zim and sorting the rear hull:-

Awesome work going on here the details will make all the difference under paint !

Rgds primers,I'm a big fan of Tamiyas extra fine but it's rattle can only... I do use Halfords also but again rattle can. If it has to be airbrush- able either de can't the above or get some Mr Hobby 1200 and thin with There Mr Colour laquer thinner,this is a superb very tough primer. With all the different materials you need a decent primer,the Vallejo acrylic stuff I'd stay away from as it doesn't adhere to metals very well at all. Laquer based primers will bite on to metals,plastic and resin very well.IE Tamiya and Mr colour 1200.

Try MDC in the UK for the Mr Hobby stuff. Also mr 1200 and 500 will last a long time,and are also great as fillers etc,you can put it on and then wipe the excess away with liquid poly in hard to reach areas that sanding would not be possible.Also great for adding textures,cast metals etc.

Carl

Hi Carl

Thank you for your comments and in particular your help with the primers.

I am tempted to just go with the Tamiya fine out the can with 3 very fine coats as this seems the best "all rounder" for the different materials on the model.

I'll make sure the can is well pressurised (put in hot water first) and do 3 coats over 3 days.

Still busy tinkering this afternoon!!!

Thanks
Dave

Hi

Fixed the spare track link clasp's, made the clasp for the jack box, mounting blocks for the rear hull, finished turret Zim and temporarily placed rear amendments before adding Zim tomorrow:-

Hi Dave, all looks very good mate. Just a thought for you, as you are getting closer to priming stage, with the metal parts a wash with IPA (alcohol) gives a better grip for primer. I find this is especially so for ali, brass and copper.

Cheers

Ron