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The Revolutionary 75 mm

Discussion in 'vBench (Works in Progress)' started by Ironwork, Apr 6, 2016.

  1. Babelfish A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Finished result looks good to me.

    Personally I don't have a problem with the guy "plugging" his products on here. Why not? It's no different to what Andrea do (or maybe I should now be saying 'did') in Figure International. If I had a line of paints out, I'd be plugging 'em as well. He's even doing a SBS so that we can see how they work and make our own minds up about whether or not they look to be any good - rather than just posting up the finished item and proclaiming them to be the best new thing since sliced bread.

    I'd be interested to know more about this "Bistro Additive" stuff though. What exactly is it, and what does it do?

    - Steve
    Magnifier likes this.
  2. REMOVED PlanetFigure Supporter

    slot car.jpeg

    First attempt at posting an image, so bear with me, but this is a 1/32 scale trackside photographer for slot car tracks..Michael Dark figure made by the son of Charles Stadden I believe, white metal...nothing special about the thing beyond being my first in near forty years, but I used the acrylics shown above..
  3. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    Hi Steve :
    In the classic painting of XVI to XIX centuries, bistro was an organic pigment used to darken other colors. Since many painters were indigent, it was often replaced by simply scratching off all color residues from the palette and re-using this complex dark mix for tasks like darkening other color tones, or painting those dark backgrounds we often see on that time portraits.

    This color is useful to shade and darken other SDW colors. It's particularly useful for all those yellow and yellow based color tones like sand, buff and so on, since it avoids the greenish hue achieved adding black. It's also useful for shading uniforms and all other colors in a more natural manner, compared to black.
    Or even to lighten black or darken white, avoidind a cold greyish tone.

    I've formulated it as a "lightweight" - compared to other sdw colors, and it has to be mixed with them - additive , to avail a softer, more progressive impact and an easier shading.
    bistro_additive_True-Earth_.jpg
    Babelfish likes this.
  4. Babelfish A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Thanks for the explanation Ironwork. Sounds like a useful product.

    - Steve
  5. Claude Portsmouth Active Member

    I agree with Steve and others and also have no objection to products being advertised on the forum. The figure manufacturers do it all the time, bases are also plugged regularly so why not paints? I think it extremely brave to demonstrate the products in an SBS especially showing the pictures in a large format.
    Thank you for giving us the opportunity to see them and make a judgement on their use to us individually.

    Perhaps Figure news could be changed to "Figure and accessory Product News"?

    Claude
    Babelfish likes this.
  6. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    Thanks to you Fellows !

    Now we are nearing the end... Boots : a first coat of black, which was let to dry.
    Then a second coat, which is a fresh blending foundation for a first light with black+bistro, and a second one+mud.

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]
  7. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    To tone down and shade the french flag colors, bistro again
    +red
    + white
    + blue

    Then lights were made with pure white, pure cyan primary blue and pure magenta primary red. The whole over the still fresh shadow colors.

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    The fresh dull colors used as a base will interact with lights, and tone down this potentially overwhelming detail.
    zane666 likes this.
  8. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    Now figure is at 99%, some better lighted pictures

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]
    Old Pete likes this.
  9. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    One latest trick : should your paints get some sheen here and there, due maybe to manipulation and unless the use of MATT ADDITIVE, gently clean it with water and soap ( the usual soap bar used for hands cleaning), then rinse. Do it a couple days after complete drying of paint, and you will get a perfectly matt finish.

    [IMG]
    Forté likes this.
  10. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    Now figure is completed

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]
  11. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    ... and thak you all for following

    [IMG]
    Old Pete and napoleonpeart like this.
  12. REMOVED PlanetFigure Supporter

    Nice...thankyou
  13. Nap Moderator

    Country:
    England
    Ironwork,

    Been following this thread in the background , you treat these exactly like normal Acrylics , using the washes to achieve the effect ..am I right ?

    They certainly look to be a useful tool to use for painting , the thread was well explained and I have read it several times ....I would like to see these being used on a bust as well

    Thanks for sharing

    Nap
  14. Ironwork Member

    Country:
    Italy
    Nap,
    you say you read it several times, that means my english is worst than I believed. I'll try to clarify :

    - SDW shading colors are paints under all respects, not washes.
    - It's an all-resin, waterbased formulation with a drying time that can be adjusted depending on the technique used.
    - For figures, they can be used in acrylic paint style, or in oil paint style, or even in "hybrid" techinques, so as anyone likes to.
    And also by airbrush without need of specific thinners, just water or nothing.

    For this figure they have been used in an oil painting style :
    • The usual method with oils : some layers of acrylic paints as a basecoat, then blending oil colors over the acrylic coat.
    • With sdw instead : a single basecoat of sdw colors, which was left to dry. Then wet on wet blending of sdw colors, in the same way you would do with oils. This is also easier from the viewpoint of no need to remix oil paints matching the acrylic basecoat ones.
    • The blending can be done both with fresh, fluid paint as out of the bottle, or with denser - oil like - paint leaving it to get thicker into a palette.
    • Comparation with oils : drying time is shorter, but enough for blending, no need to absorb any exceeding linseen oil, or use of solvents, nor smell.

    - There are 6 videos about SDW Shading Colors HERE. And I suggest you to get a look also to tank-dedicated videos, since you see the method on a larger surface.
    - There is a free dowload e-book with a large section on SDW colors : follow the KNOW MORE link from this page.


    Any question will be useful to improve paint's explanations.

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