hi Friends,

Rolf is almost finished, the shield and axe are the lasts items before i can turn on Torstein and the groundwork for them both.
As the whole setup won't be finished in no way for this saturday meeting in Montreal i did a quick base for him.
His name is painted on the woodbase.



as usual you comments are more than welcomed !

Looking great. Can't wait to see the finished figure

Ooooh, the friend of the vikings strikes again!!!
Hi Franck
Is a pleasure watch a big evolution in your miniatures. Things go very well taking your vignete of the moribound and his friend as the start. For me all is correct here. The colours are convincent, every element is clearly defined. The tatoo likes me a lot. Maybe is time to pass to the next step. You can try to obtain more contrast between shadows hand lights. For this, is you need have in your mind the planes of light and shadow clear, and try to increase the volumes of the sculpt with your painting. Obviously, with a good sculpted miniature is easier than with a mediocre one.
There are two obstacles.
We used to begin to iluminate with white. White alterates a lot of colours very fast; reds, blues, some greens are burned easyly out of the range, and the final result is stranged. The same happens with black for shadows (is true i'm a big fan of black for shadows, but is a dangerous colour)
Try obtain a clean degree form base to light and base to shadow is not easy. At least wit acrilycs, in the beginning maybe a bit slow.

thank you very much metal extremo, your comments are greatly appreciated ! and i will definitely follow your advices !

do you think that a deep brown primer would be better with pre lighting done in flesh base ?

thank you again

Hi Franck, sorry but my english is not as good as i want, and i don't understand your question.
What you mean with "pre lighting done in flesh base"? People use to prime in white, grey, or black. With white the saturated and clear colours need less layers to give all their power. In the other side the light of the lamp reflectated makes the volumes less clear. With black, is more laborious work with these colours. Grey is more neutral.

hello Metal, i'll try to explain myself as english is not my first language neither

I'm used to prime with black, then with my airbrush i'm shooting white from where i want the light to be,
so my question is : should i use a kind of fles colour in place of the white ?

you can see what i mean on the figure on the left.



many thanks for your comments !

Hi Franck.
No necessary use another colour. Is a good trick to airbrush from the top to watch the lights and shadows. You have all the plains defined correctly; but the work of painting goes after with your mixes.

ok thank you very much

Hi. The base looks very good and the figure looks promosing. If you try to paint more highlights and shades better don´t use black or white for it. If you highlight for example red with white you will get a wash out red that looks like rosa and with black a dirty black red. If you use some yellow paints you will get a better red and if you mix green with your red colour you will get a brown colour for the shades. I think you know the colourwheel to find the correct complementary color. I always use it to find the correct color for the shades.