Just wondering what to use to matt down a figure painted in oils, I was going to use W&N matt varnish in a spray can, is that OK or should I buy something different ? opinions welcomed.
Cheers
Steve

Personally I use Dylor/Rowney soluble matt varnish through and airbrush.
W&N make good products and what you intend to use is ok but I would mist it on from about 8/12 inches away.

Hi Steve, I use Artisan water mixable oils and use the Artisan varnishes, they all do what they say on the tin and I can't see yours being any different

There are others ways of reducing the sheen, but all during application so probably won't help you if you've already painted the piece. I lay out my oils on a bit of card or towel roll for 30 mins or so to leech out some of the oil carrier before using them. A little bit of thinner seems to promote a matt finish as does drying the paint somewhere warm like an airing cupboard or hot-box. If all else fails then the varnish works a treat, and has the added bonus of protecting the paintwork

I hope this is of some help to you mate.

I use Testors Dull Coat.
I paint as Billy discribe. After painting I put my figure in a drybox.
The Dull coat is used once at a total of more then 100 figures.

Marc

I use my "drying oven" and many, many thin layers of the colour. And sometimes a last layer with terpintin or another medium with only a very little bit of colour.

Pretty much the same approach as Marc. Only use Dullcote as a last resort if I can't get rid of the sheen by 'cooking'. Let it flow on, don't overbrush or you'll get drags.
My oven these days is a pretty simple affair, a metal biscuit tin the same circumference as the hood on my Anglepoise. Bog standard 60w bulb and just pull down over the tin with the figure inside.

I have a purpose built box but prior to that I used a similar method to Del with a glass dome and an anglepoise lamp-worked a treat

Claude

Thanks for the many responses, it has been about 3+ years since I painted a figure and I totally forgot about laying the oils onto some card/paper etc to leach out the oils, will remember that for next time. Although the paint has matted down on its own after a few days of drying I would like to get it flatter for the tan coloured shirt, never thought about using heat to dry it, something I will look into though as I intend to stick with oils for the future.
Can I still cook it after about 4 days of drying, will that help before I commit to matt varnish ?
Cheers
Steve

After 4 days Steve some colours are more likely to hang onto the sheen especially Blue. Try it and see for about 4 hours, over time of course Oils loose a lot of their sheen anyway.

Claude

You can put it in the airing cupboard mate,but make sure it's in a sealed container else the smell can lead to "unpleasantness"
Steve

I have had some success mixing wax medium into the paint prior to application. Gave me a beautiful dark matte blue the one time I used it on a large scale figure. But I don't recall the wax to paint ratio I used. I am going to try painting over some of my large acrylic busts in oils in the near future and I intend to try the wax again. Will let you know how it goes

Colin

To Eludia's point, I recommend a wax medium, too. You cut it in with the paint. The wax breaks down into tiny particles, that give the paint's surface a rough texture (at a near-microscopic level), which scatters light when reflecting it, giving the matte appearance. I use Dorland's.

Prost!
Brad

I've never heard of wax medium till now, I'll need to check it out. Thanks guys

Sound like X21 for oils

I suspect you don't want to heat oils with wax cut into them.

Thanks again for the replies, I am going to try some heat and see if that helps, failing that I will shoot it with some matt coat.
Interesting comment regarding the wax added to the paint, I will look into that more.
Colin will look forward to seeing how you get on with painting oils over the acrylics with wax added.
Many thanks
Steve

Here is a photo of a blue uniform painted in oils cut with Gamblin cold wax medium, mixed into the base blue with a palette knife, and no dull coat.

Nice result Colin
Steve

you ain t supposed to varnish any oil painting surface until the surface is fully 'cured' which can take up to a year
best advise is to lay oils thin, remove some oil before applying the paint and cook it after.

Steve, just adding my two cents... I use oils and the way I cut the glossy by mixing baby powder to the oils as I paint. The trick is to mix the powder and thin the oils at the same time. One of the benefits of working this way is the oils will dry to touch over night. Good luck Mate..

Tony... good to hear from you mate, nice idea with the baby powder, will give that a try on my next figure.
All the best mate, hope you are well.
Steve