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A couple of questions regarding oil paints...

Discussion in 'Just starting...' started by Ender Duman, Oct 16, 2013.

  1. Ender Duman New Member

    Hello everyone. Long time listener first time caller here :) I have been admiring your works for a long time. I finally decided to sign up because I have a couple of questions that I think only you guys can answer: I recently decided to switch to oil paints after some experimenting. I want to ask, is it possible (and viable) to use them to paint small scale, 1:72 and 28-30 mm (Warhammer?) figures? Do you have any advice or insight? What brushes do you use for detail work? (I mean something like the oil paint equivalent of Kolinsky brushes?)

    Thank you in advance guys :) See you later...
  2. kansas kid Well-Known Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Hello and welcome to this group of fellow planeteers. First
    off, I really like your avitar! Something different. Regarding
    the questions you asked, oh my, there are so many different
    answers that would apply. Because each of us do not work
    in how we apply either acrylics or oils or both in the same
    manner. So I'll just mention a couple of things and hope that
    others will chime in with their comments. 1) For the smaller
    scale figures such as you mention, I only use Winsor Newton
    Series 7 watercolour brushes. This would be sizes single zero (0)
    and double zero (00) Also I would suggest that you
    get some sort of "opti-visor" for the real close up work, i.e.
    pupils of the eyes, or the catch light (I'm thinking of sizes
    such as 1:32nd scale and 54mm, here) 2) I use both acrylics
    and oils. And when using oils I do not thin the paint. I mix
    the colour I want on my auto safety glass palette and
    dip the brush in the unthinned oil paint. I use mineral spirits
    to clean up the brushes. The wash them out in the palm of
    my hand, with mild hand soap, at the end of the session. A
    container of Mineral Spirits is also available in an "odorless"
    version. When using oils, the paint is applied very thinly.
    Lastly, when you do post photos here , please indicate what
    scale the figure is. Since we are looking only at photos and are
    not actually there to see the figure "live". . . knowing the
    scale really helps us to understand what we are looking at.
    Good Luck, The Miami Jayhawk (Rick Brownlee)
    napoleonpeart likes this.
  3. billyturnip A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    I and lots of others use oils on 30mm flat figures so there is no reason why they can't be used on the stuff you mentioned.... and welcome. (y)

    Roger.
  4. geaugan Member

    Country:
    United-States
    Look what Mr. Acrylic, "I can paint twenty figures on one shore leave" is saying now! Roger has found the "true" path;) To answer your question, oils will work fine on the smaller scales, in fact, since they are so finally ground they probably work better than hobby acrylics. Their slow drying gives you more "open-time" to work with them. As for brushes - same sables that are used on acrylics but I beleive you will get a longer brush life with oils. sizes: 000, 00,0 and 1. 10/0, 5,0 etc. are pretty much useless in my opinion. As for brands, I like Rosemary & Co. series 33 and Winsor and Newton # 7's.
    billyturnip likes this.
  5. billyturnip A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    This is true! :joyful:

    Roger.
  6. Ender Duman New Member

    Thank you guys. About the avatar: Mr. Jek Tono Porkins has always been my favorite Star Wars character :)
    The thing is, my interest in oil paints turned into an obsession in time. I've painted only using acrylics. But I want to "master" oils :) Drying time is not really a problem for me since I don't paint armies and take my time painting each and every one of those little guys. I found a copy of Sheperd Paine's book. I'm sure I'll devour it in no time.

    @kansas kid: Thank you for you reply. I have an optivisor and Kolinsky brushes. Last night I used them with oils and (contrary to popular belief) the hairs did not fall off :) Thanks again.

    By the way you can see my work in my blog: http://endersgames172.blogspot.com/
  7. Tubby-Nuts2 A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Ender!... there are some notable differences with the type and make of oils that are available. Such as the, Windsor & Newton.. 'Winton', or 'Artist', range. both have notable differences! .. or a step up to 'Old Holland',.. or a step down to, 'Daler Rowney'. a lot can depend on your chosen range!.. which is what, by the way? (y)

    Ps, Welcome to 'Bedlam', :LOL:

    Regards,

    Mark
  8. Ender Duman New Member

    Hello Tubby-Nuts2. My girlfriend has a large collection of Winton and Daler Rowney (Georgian) paints.
    I think I'll use them for a while and maybe create my own palette in time. (Unfortunately, her impasto techniques are of no use to me : ) )
    I exclusively paint medieval and fantasy figures (1:72 scale and 28-30 mm). Bright colors, high contrast and a matte finish are important to me.
    By the way, what do you guys think of alkyd (Griffin, Gamblin...) paints? I heard that they dry in a couple of hours and have a matte finish.
    Can they be used in figure painting? Are the pigments ground enough? And lastly, what mediums do you guys use?

    Thanks again for the warm welcome :)
  9. Tubby-Nuts2 A Fixture

    Country:
    United-Kingdom
    Ender,.. I use all mediums, on any given subject, (which is not many this year).. Acrylics, Oils, Enamels! ... basically, if it fits, use it! as the spectrum of choice is wide open! ... and as such, you get to know the qualities of each type, and learn how best to use them.

    E.g.. With Acrylics, I have, Andrea, Vallejo, both Model and Air, Mr Hobby, GW, etc.

    Oils, W/N-, Winton, & Artist, Old Holland, Mig, etc.

    Enamels,.. well just as they are, Humbrol !

    Try not to get bogged down with a single medium,....... its a colourful world:D

    Regards,

    Mark
    Funky50 likes this.
  10. theBaron A Fixture

    Country:
    United-States
    I use Schminke-Mussini oils, myself.

    Prost!
    Brad
  11. garyhiggins A Fixture

    Country:
    England
    Hi Ender, first I have to agree with the kansas kid about your avitar, Great.
    I have used griffin alkyds and I like them a lot. They are now being marketed by windsor and newton as fast drying oils. The difference between them and ordinary oils is that they only have one grade(artists), the pigment seems very finely ground, and the binder is synthetic so they all dry at the same rate. Being a synthetic binder, the colours tend not to go dull. Some do seem very transparent, but perhaps it's worth getting a small set to see what you think.
    Best wishes, Gary.
  12. Ender Duman New Member

    First of all please excuse me for not replying your replies earlier. Recently I hadn't have time to spend for the hobby and fellow hobbyists :) Fortunately from now on I will have the time and the resources to paint those little guys. I had bought some Humbrol enamels and plan on painting over them with oils. Hope to share the results soon. Thanks again guys (and gals, if there are any) :)
  13. malc PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    England
    Hi Ender, I have read the above and agree with it, however I use oils exclusively (although I may try humbrol as a base for some colours), I use them neat although sometimes I try some mediums, Brushes the best I can get, I do not use many three or four size's and replace the fairly regularly but never throw them away, (as I will still use them) but mainly my own advise would be, be patient, lean your own style and technique. try a larger figure this may help develop the former and you may even find you enjoy them as much.

    PS I tried your Blog ..... it was not there (n)
  14. tonydawe A Fixture

    Country:
    Australia
    To my mind the best paint to use is the one that's best suited to create the effect you're trying to realise.

    For me, I favour using acrylics and oils and pastels in combination.

    It's not a case of oils vs. acrylics, but rather a "horses for courses" approach.

    Sometimes oils over acrylics is a better look than just acrylics on their own.

    Many figure painters (in all scales) favour oils over acrylics on flesh and leather areas because you get a slight sheen from the oil paint and the acrylic provides a solid base colour that can be easily filtered.

    Other favour oils only for flesh areas.

    Personally I'll use whatever paint I think is going to give me the effect I'm looking for.
    DEL and Eludia like this.
  15. DEL A Fixture

    Country:
    Scotland
    It's all been pretty well covered. One small addition to Kansas Kids brush cleaning regime is when you've cleaned your brush and your hands and they are both still slightly damp do this.
    Have a look at your hand and you'll see the palmistry lines, place your brush in the crease of the heart line, gently close your palm until the hairs are enclosed by the line and draw out towards your pinky whilst keeping palm closed. Repeat a few times until you're satisfied with the point then let the brush dry by hanging with hairs down ......it actually works. I think it's something traditional signwriters do.
    See ..... painting wee figures is sexy :ROFLMAO: how can women resist us with a chat up line like this ...... feel free to use :)
    PalmLinesMountsOutline5.gif
    Scotty and Alex Long like this.
  16. malc PlanetFigure Supporter

    Country:
    England
    absolutely
    DEL likes this.
  17. zane666 Well-Known Member

    Country:
    New_Zealand
    can anyone explain waterbased oils in a bit of depth? I have only just recently heard of them. Do they resemble water or oil based paint more?

    zane
  18. tonydawe A Fixture

    Country:
    Australia
    I'd like to know about water based oil paints too
  19. Nap Moderator

    Country:
    England
    Hi Guys ,

    Firstly Welcome Ender ....

    Please forgive an Acrylic fella for daring to post:eek: ..but yes I also use W&N water soluable oils .[IMG].for me they work fine , they have a good colour pigment and cover well , they have the same properties as normal oils and can be used with Acrylics ...brushes can be cleaned out in water as well ...... and I can eat them !!!!

    This book might be of some use : [IMG]

    Here is something I have found with other painters comments ..might answer a few questions :

    Reasons for Using Water Soluble Oils
    I have been working with water-based oil paints for a few years now. Because my studio is within my house, I wanted to find something that didn't smell of turps. I have worked with acrylics also, but on certain pictures I do not like that flat look they sometimes give a painting. -- Pauline Dickerson
    What’s the Difference Between Water Soluble Oils and Acrylics?
    Water soluble oils are water mixable, not water based. Big difference. They are real oils with two ways (that I know of) of making them. One is to add detergent to oils to allow the water and oils to get along with one another, the other way involves using different ingredients. -- Michael9
    The main difference is drying time; acrylics dry very rapidly and give relatively little working time, whereas water soluble oils dry more slowly, like traditional oils, giving you more working time. – Agatha210
    The character of the water soluble oils is very similar to oil based paints. They seem to give you excellent depth of color. You can use the same medium as you would with oils. Or you can use water, each can give you a variety of looks. The spread ability and colors remain the same.-- Pauline Dickerson
    Cleaning Up Water Soluble Oils
    Water soluble oils are a lot easier to clean up after. – Starrpoint
    I especially enjoy the ease of cleaning the brushes when using water soluble oils, no more of that stubborn color on your hands, brushes or clothes, soap and water does the trick. -- Pauline Dickerson
    You can clean your brushes with oil, which removes the paint, then follow up with soap,and water. I have been doing that for a long time now, and it really works great. -- R. S.
    Drying Time of Water Soluble Oils
    The drying time is similar to oils so you have time to work the image to your satisfaction. -- Pauline Dickerson
    Drying time depends on what you use. I find if you use the water it dries a lot faster, if you use the oil it takes a little time and stays sticky until totally dry. -- Tootsiecat
    The drying time of water soluble oils is not significantly faster then with traditional oils, but it is faster. Since I tend to work a long time on my painting, the long drying time of oils is not a problem for me. -- Starrpoint
    I use Windsor and Newton, plus a few others as additions. Mine dry in about two to three days or a week. The most it's taken is two weeks. Thicker takes longer. With the fast drying medium available from Windsor and Newton I have had them dry in a shorter time. -- Michael9
    Working With Water Soluble Oils
    From what I remember from using standard oils there really is not that much of a difference between them and waterbased except the odour is much lower using water instead of turps. There is a slight odour from the paint but not as bad and clean up is a breeze, soap and water! They also have water soluble oil mediums (linseed) which can be mixed with your oils. I like working with it and its much better for your health. Buy a small tube and try it you have nothing to lose. -- Tootsiecat
    Water soluble oils do blend a little faster, which can be a problem when you are shading from light to dark. It take a little work to keep your shading distinct and gradual. I had a little trouble getting the depth of my paintings right, but I think it is more a matter of getting experience with these paints and then a problem with the media. Water soluble oils do seem a little thinner. I use sponges and rags sometimes, and the water soluble oils lend themselves to this very well. -- Starrpoint
    You can get by with adding other paints and additives, but it's best to try it out first before you put it on a painting. The "allowable" ratio is about 25 per cent. Better to go under. I have mixed stuff for oil, acrylic, and watercolor with them with no ill affects. Classico Acqua states in their brochures that you can mix any thing with theirs. If you mix regular oils or their additives with them and go beyond the 25 per cent you lose the water-mixable qualities and they are then regular oils. -- Michael9
    Colours available in Water Soluble Oils
    I have noticed that some of the deeper colors, such as viridian green and colbalt blue seem a little more transparent then their oil-based counterparts

    As has been said by Tony ..." horses for courses"

    Off now to cuddle a Scale 75 Acrylic bottle :whistle:


    Nap
  20. zane666 Well-Known Member

    Country:
    New_Zealand
    Napoleonpeart, thankyou for that.

    zane
    napoleonpeart likes this.

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