This is an SBS on how to create groundwork simulating woods or forest using the techniques of John Long. I have always felt that adding good groundwork to a figure does much to enhance the visual appearance of the display and help tell a story. Good groundwork can go far in painting the whole picture of what a figure is doing. I attended a workshop given by Grand Master artist/painter John Long this past February (2015) at the Atlanta Model Figure Show. With his kind permission (thanks John) I will post an SBS using the techniques he taught us in that workshop. For me, the most important things I learned from the workshop were how to make trees and how to make rocks. I also learned to use matte medium instead of white glue or superglue, and since it dries matte, I don’t have to paint over the shiny glue. I hope you will find some useful information from this SBS to enhance the groundwork on your figures. This SBS is not exactly as John taught, but how I best remember. The main thing is to see the ideas and techniques, and use your imagination to expand on the information presented here.
John, if you happen to monitor this post, and I present something wrong, please jump in and comment on the correct way. My memory isn’t as good as it once was.

I have posted some photos on my facebook page which you may like to view, including samples of three bases I have completed, and several images I downloaded from the internet of other artist’s groundwork. Look for Pete Garrison.
To complete the project and perform all the techniques as presented here, you will need the following supplies:
A base. The base could be round or square, but should be at least two inches across. I am using a 2 ¼ inch square wooden base. Depending on your scene and the number of figures you use, your base may be much larger.
A pinned figure. For this SBS, am using a 54mm figure. As presented here, 54mm and smaller figures look best, but these techniques can be applied to larger scale figures as well. I use the heavy duty paper clips for pinning. In general, the pin should be long enough to go through the groundwork and attach securely to the base. It is possible to pin light 54mm resin figures to the groundwork only, but I like to pin my stuff all the way down into the base to ensure it is securely mounted.
A pinned Armand Bayardi tree. Okay, it doesn’t have to be a Bayardi tree, but that is what I will be using for this demo. I will add limbs and leaves to the basic Bayardi tree trunk to give the impression of a full tree and give this base a wooded or forest look.
Green floral foam. This stuff is messy to work with, but works well. It is the skeleton of the groundwork. Other stiff foam products could also be used, but this one is cheap, cuts easy and once covered with a glue/water mixture to seal it, the mess is over.
Wood glue. Any brand will do. Wood glue is used to attach the foam to the base, then to seal the remaining sides of the foam.
Celluclay. This is used to make a paper mache paste to cover the remaining green floral foam after the rocks have been attached to the base. Any other instant paper mache product besides Celluclay will work just as well. (You tube has several videos on how to make your own paper mache.)
EPOXYBOND Pool Putty. This two part epoxy putty is not good for making fine detail figures, but works really well for making rocks. Make sure you get the grey, not the black. Other grey epoxy putties will work too.
Matte Medium Acrylic. Used for gluing on parts (dead leaf litter, flowers, grass, moss, etc.). It dries dead flat.
Matte Gel Medium Acrylic. Used for gluing on tree limbs. This is thicker than the matte medium, and fills gaps. It dries dead flat.
Earth tone acrylic paints. Browns and yellows. Depends on where your scene is meant to represent. Most old forests have a burnt umber dirt. For an American Civil War scene in the South, Georgia red clay should be on your list.
Earth tone oil paints. Sepia, Burnt Umber, Yellow Ochre, Cadmium Orange, etc. (Acrylic paint can be used instead of oil paint if you prefer, but using the sepia washe on the rocks work best with oils).
Dead leaves. These can be acquired from various sources. They are actually birch seeds, so if you have a close by source for them, you won’t have to purchase them like I do.
Silfor leaves. There are other brands like Heki, but Silfor is the brand I will be using for this project. I have not used any other type yet, but I think the brass etched leaves look like they would be good. The Silfor leaves come in many colors (seasons).
Roots and twigs. These can be found in your yard or maybe somewhere near to where you live. I have an endless supply in the mountains about an hour from my house. Tomato plant, azalea, rhododendron, dogwood tree, and mountain laurel roots all make good miniature tree trunks and limbs. I am sure there are many other plants that will work as well.
Masking tape. This tape is used to cover and protect the base. I use blue painter’s tape.
Primer. I am using a can of gray auto primer. Any primer will do. The primer is only for the Bayardi tree.
Various dried miniature flowers, grass clumps, photo etched plants. These will be used to represent various plants and flowers. They can be found at many hobby supply stores, if not naturally. Chervil or parsley can be used to make leaves on small trees and bushes. Fredericus Rex offers some nice paper photo etched plants.
Finely shredded green foam. This can be used to simulate moss. I use a product from Woodland Scenics called Green Grass Fine Turf.
Dyed deer hair. This makes for some nice strands of tall grass. Dyed green or natural. Any Outdoors outfitter store that sells fly tying materials such as Bass Pro Shop.
Static Grass. Good for making patches of grass.
Super Glue. I apply superglue to the ends of the pins when I am attaching the tree and the figure to the base.
Picture of supplies:


Figure 1 Bayardi Tree


Figure 2 Celluclay

Figure 3 Acrylic matte gel and matte medium


Figure 4 Plant with root ball attached

Figure 5 Azalea and mountain laurel roots

Figure 6 Birch seeds used as forest floor litter dead leaves

Figure 7 Hare’s ear and Static grass

Figure 8 MiniNature grass tufts clumps of long grass


Figure 9 These are some paper products by miniNatur and NOCH to simulate leaves and plants


Figure 10 deer/animal hair used to simulate tall grass


Figure 11 Epoxybond Pool Putty (grey resin)

I look forward to the step in which you prepare the Celluclay, particularly.

Prost!
Brad

Excellent timing - just primed up a French Napoleonic Sapeur, which I'd pictured in a leafy glade . . .

Thanks for all the work you put into this.
I followed it from begin to the end and its a great article.
Hopefully the moderators can put it into the article section.

Marc

Excellent and very helpful series of SBS instruction on an important aspect of figure modeling.

Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

Cheers,
James

See a great use for some of my fly tying materials here

I'm going to enjoy this SBS, especially since I've just started painting my annual figure . Looking forward to it Ron.
Regards, Gary.